Originally posted by keithlester You dont focus on the hyperfocal distance itself. You put your infinity mark on one of your aperture marks and are in focus down to the other mark. That's the traditional way of using the scales for PAS photography.
If you don't have scales (a modern zoom), or are using a custom table/ring/software, you do focus on a hyperfocal distance.
I use this all the time. It's exactly 1/3 deep into the area of critical focus. I don't look it up, I just know the 1/3 rule and use it.
Originally posted by keithlester IMO landscape photography is better done by critical manual focussing using a magnifier. If you are using a tripod, it makes no sense trying to use PAS technique (or lack of), how would that be of any benefit?
I see you have a tilt/shift lens in your lineup. Perhaps you come from a large format background. The manual focusing, chimping the lcd comment makes sense in that light. Personally, the LCD is too small and not bright enough for me - especially in full sunlight. It's different if I'm shooting 4x5.
You know, I rarely use manual focusing for my landscape photography. The autofocus does an adequate job and the tolerances are far greater than, for instance, macro.
If you are using a tripod, you are already beyond "Point and Shoot". If you are using hyperfocal scales, tables, etc - you are beyond PAS.
Originally posted by keithlester If you are just taking landscape snaps, in some kind of a rush, it would be better to use the auto-focus kit zoom that almost certainly came free with your camera.
What does the auto-focus kit zoom have to do with hyperfocal technique? Also HF is not something people often do in a rush. If one were in a rush, they'd likely just use f/22 and forget about it. You might as well do that with a prime anyway if you're considering an el-cheapo zoom. Your results, even with (pr especially with) diffraction will be better on the prime.
Even if I were to use the auto-focus zoom kit, I'd still need HF (or LCD chimping) to get the whole scene in focus. Neither zoom nor autofocus are relevant factors.
Originally posted by keithlester Buying manual prime lenses only makes sense if you are going to focus manually, for which purpose you have a viewfinder and your eyesight, which will always outperform hyperfocal guesswork.
Often times, the viewfinder on the K10d is too dark to adequately judge focus across the frame using analog DoF preview, or stopping down manually.
Furthermore, if I'm using hyperfocal technique, I _know_ that my subject/s will be adequately in focus. There is no guesswork. Or am I just guessing that the sun will rise tomorrow morning?
Why do prime lenses come in automatic focusing these days? That wouldn't make sense if they were just for manual focusing.
Personally, when I'm backpacking, my walk-around lens is the DA 40mm limited. It is capable of fully automatic use. I most often preset my aperture and speed manually - but use the autofocus.
One of the beautiful things about a prime is that when using HF, all you have to worry about is distance and aperture. If you know your camera and lens. all the other variables go away.