[rghammond]

Hi all,

I've got a Pentax KP that I shoot almost exclusively with manual lenses. For exposure readings I use the green button on the back, but also often use a sekonic l-308. I'm looking to buy an external flash, but am not sure what features I actually need. I don't want to pay for an expensive flash only to not be able to use most of its features because of the way i shoot. Anyone have any recommendations for an external flash or advice about what features I do or don't need?

Also it would be a bonus (though not required) if the flash also worked with my 35mm KX.

Thanks!

[kypfer]

A Pentax-dedicated flash is likely to be expensive ... however, if you're working manual, why not get an "old-school" flashgun just with a single hot-shoe contact and a built-in sensor and use the exposure/settings chart on the flashgun at least as a starting point.
With a bit of familiarisation you'll soon get to know whether or not you're likely to need to make any compensation and with the added benefits of instant review and histogram on digital cameras an "old-fashioned" gun need not be too much of a hindrance, unless you're dealing with subjects that are likely to disappear as soon as a gun fires once
Things to look out for might be the inclusion of an off-camera cable, if your body(s) have a socket for such, and wide-angle capability if you veer too far from a "normal" lens.


Good luck

[MossyRocks]

however, if you're working manual, why not get an "old-school" flashgun just with a single hot-shoe contact and a built-in sensor and use the exposure/settings chart on the flashgun at least as a starting point.

Beat me to it. I like the Vivitar 285 HV as it has either a full manual or "auto" quench mode and the analogue calculator on the side. It would be a great way to learn how to use a flash. However be sure to get the HV ones as they are the low voltage trigger ones that won't cook your modern camera but will still work with old cameras. You can usually find nice ones for about $30, but get some good rechargeable AA batteries because it will eat them fairly fast and it pulls a lot of current if shooting a lot of flash shots in succession.

[vector]

I have a pair of older Yongnuo 460II's that are fully manual and I use them on my digital and film cameras. The newer versions would be the 560 and 660 series - they are more powerful then my 460's but still manual. They work well and with a couple test shots its pretty quick to get everything set right. Yongnuo also sells affordable wireless triggers so you can use the flash guns off camera. I have a more expensive P-TTL flash and I find myself using the manual ones more often. Film is harder since you can't do the test shots, but most films will be a little bit forgiving if the exposure is slightly off, especially if you are scanning yourself. If you work out the settings for your common shooting scenarios using your digital camera, the same settings apply with your KX. You'll get familiar soon enough.

[ChristianRock]

I would use an auto thyristor flash (or two, they're cheap as peanuts). In fact I have more of them than I can actually use... and they all work great.

My actual recommendation is the AF280T, you can find it very easily. Not the cheapest, but I think it's the best because you can tilt/rotate, and even face it down for macro shots. The two types of thyristor settings (green and red) where it will vary the intensity of the flash are also very useful. I used it pretty much exclusively until I bought the AF360FGZ II for an incredible price (or I should say, I basically stole it...).

I also have a Minolta thyristor flash that came with a film camera I bought years ago and sold, but the flash stayed... and yep, it works on my Pentax bodies as well, thanks to the universal socket that Pentax/Minolta/Olympus shared. I had a Vivitar too, no idea where that ended up... and recently I got a 2nd AF280T with a film camera, but the battery compartment is all corroded. Let's see if it works after I clean it up... haven't had the time yet.

But yeah, get a working AF280T. They're great.

[totsmuyco]

I would use an auto thyristor flash (or two, they're cheap as peanuts). In fact I have more of them than I can actually use... and they all work great.

My actual recommendation is the AF280T, you can find it very easily. Not the cheapest, but I think it's the best because you can tilt/rotate, and even face it down for macro shots. The two types of thyristor settings (green and red) where it will vary the intensity of the flash are also very useful. I used it pretty much exclusively until I bought the AF360FGZ II for an incredible price (or I should say, I basically stole it...).

I also have a Minolta thyristor flash that came with a film camera I bought years ago and sold, but the flash stayed... and yep, it works on my Pentax bodies as well, thanks to the universal socket that Pentax/Minolta/Olympus shared. I had a Vivitar too, no idea where that ended up... and recently I got a 2nd AF280T with a film camera, but the battery compartment is all corroded. Let's see if it works after I clean it up... haven't had the time yet.

But yeah, get a working AF280T. They're great.

Is it safe to use old flash on a digital camera? Someone told me that old flash units might burn the flash circuitry of your digital camera.

[ChristianRock]

Is it safe to use old flash on a digital camera? Someone told me that old flash units might burn the flash circuitry of your digital camera.

The answer is, as always, it depends

The following list can help: Photo Strobe Trigger Voltages

You will see that there are basically two types of flashes: those that work at 12V and less (usually less han 8V) and those are generally safe.

Then there's those that work at over 100V, sometimes over 200V. Don't use those

[MossyRocks]

Is it safe to use old flash on a digital camera?

The answer is, as always, it depends

Yes it can be safe and it does depend on the specific flash. The Vivitar 285HV uses a nice safe low trigger voltage and has the "auto" thyristor modes plus manual modes. However make sure it is the 285HV as the regular 285 would is up in the 100s of volts and would would cook your camera's flash circuits.

[wings]

I have a barely used Pentax AF240FT that I acquired as part of a lot purchase and was wondering if this would be a good match with a manual lens?

[ChristianRock]

I have a barely used Pentax AF240FT that I acquired as part of a lot purchase and was wondering if this would be a good match with a manual lens?

Yup, that flash will work just fine. It's not as full featured as the AF280T (which I already mentioned is my favorite thyristor flash) but it will work well - if it's in working condition, of course.

[wings]

Yup, that flash will work just fine. It's not as full featured as the AF280T (which I already mentioned is my favorite thyristor flash) but it will work well - if it's in working condition, of course.

I am somewhat of a tyro when it comes to flashes, most of my photography has been outdoors and using natural lighting. This does not have the telephoto or the wide angle adapters so it may limit its usefulness. I also have a Vivitar 283 and 285 both of which were acquired many years ago from a sale. They both work okay, but the 285 is missing the diffuser, but not sure how they would perform on my K-1.

This is one aspect of photography that I need to explore and was encouraged by the threads on this topic.

[rogerstg]

Anyone have any recommendations for an external flash or advice about what features I do or don't need?

In terms of features, you need at least Manual mode, though an Auto mode (thyristor) is often helpful. It sounds like you don't need P-TTL, but shouldn't exclude a flash just because it has it. You should get a flash with a tilt and swivel head. It makes a big difference.

I'm not an expert on current choices, but I still have my Pentax AF-540FGZ (not II). It would cover all your needs plus some and can be had for ~$100 on Ebay. It also has a zoom feature.

[MossyRocks]

They both work okay, but the 285 is missing the diffuser, but not sure how they would perform on my K-1.

Is it the old 285 or 285HV? The 285 uses a much higher trigger voltage that would probably cause damage to the K-1 while the 285HV use like 12 or 8 volts so would be just fine. I have a couple of 285HV flashes and always use them as bounces when I do use them and one even came with an optical trigger. I haven't had a problem with either 285HV on the K-3.

[EDstrg87]

consider also a modern manual flash or a pttl like yongnuo 585ex that works fine with A lenses

[stevebrot]

Another vote for the AF280T. When used with a K or M lens on your AP, it will provide both auto-thyrister and full manual as well as basic flash dedication in M mode as if it were mounted to an ME Super film camera, meaning:

• Option of automatic flash exposure (two ranges)
• Changes shutter to maximum sync speed unless the current set speed is lower (may be overridden)
• Shows flash ready in viewfinder

With A-series and newer lenses, it will do the above tasks as well as set the appropriate aperture to match the camera ISO and flash range setting, the exact behavior depending on camera exposure mode.

Although flash zoom is not supported, the pattern is adequate down to about 18mm on APS-C without need for the optional (and hard to find) wide-angle diffuser. There are only two manual settings, H and L, with guide numbers of 28(m) and 8(m) respectively. Amazingly enough, flash modifiers are available that fit this flash. I have Sto-Fen Omni Bounce that fit the AF280T and several others. (The AF280T was made for about 20 years, up until at least 1998.)

I have found that my AF280T is often a less troublesome alternative, even with modern lenses, than my P-TTL flash.


Steve