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04-29-2020, 01:04 AM   #31
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I second all those recommending a K-3 or a KP (maybe a K-70). The main issue comparing film and digital shooting for me is still focus accuracy. Thus you want to have the latest autofocus built in your camera. The autofocus modul also is the main help while working with manual focus. Focusing screens from analog cameras are only the second best solution, they have isssues on there own. While the K-5 II has a good TTL autofocus modul it's liveview focus is not up to date. The K3 and KP have improved AF software over the K-5II as well. I would not recommend the K-5 first version for these reasons as well.
I'am working with a K-70 which has technical speaking the same TTL autofocus layout as the K-5II, but I would recommend the K-70 over the K-5II in terms of latest software and liveview focus (and it's articulated screen).

Concerning old flashes. After 10 years of owning DSLR I'am still using old flashes (Metz SCA) without P-TTL. Just set the flash to A-mode and use it on the DSLR like on your LX, you'll be happy. The trigger voltage is your main concern, as it might destroy the camera.

04-29-2020, 01:09 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by bgm1956 Quote
I have 3 focusing screens for the LX and have no problem swapping them out.

Strangely enough, things have gone backwards in that regard. The actual mechanism is similar but it gets complicated. Pentax do make additional focusing screens for your viewing pleasure but not one with a split image focus aid. You could buy one from a third party but they went out out of business. You could use one made by Canon but you have to lightly modify it to fit a Pentax. AFAIK you file off a tab. The tabless focusing screen will be tricky to handle. And it will have no easy to use indication of which side is up - better pay attention when installing it. You could also heavily modify one made for film cameras. These are much too big for a crop frame digital body and have to be cut down to fit. This is due to the sensor being smaller than a 35mm frame, of course.


With the K1, swapping film era focusing screens should be easier as there is no size difference. However, there seems to be a thickness issue. There have been some discussion here about using shims for that, but I can't recall the details.
04-29-2020, 01:27 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by bgm1956 Quote
I'm contemplating moving from film to digital and am considering either a K-5 or a K-3. I will be picking up some AF lenses as well. Between these two of these cameras, which one would you chose and why?
Lots of great insights and advise already. Here's a good comparison site:

Pentax K-5 vs Pentax K-3 Detailed Comparison

The K5 is fine. The K3 is better and that's the one I'd choose. Why?
a) Better low light, high ISO capability.
b) Higher MP to allow for more cropping or enlargements. (50% more pixels is significant.)
c) Improved auto focus.
d) Newer. K5 and K5II released 2010-2012. K3 and K3II released in 2013-2015. Unlike your LX, DSLRs don't age as well.

The best arguments IMO for the K5 is price, battery life, and a slight edge in dynamic range. The K5's 16MP sensor will match better with your film lenses, but the K3 will excel with modern AF digital lenses.

Between a K5 and K3II there's a big difference. Between a K5II and a K3 it's splitting hairs. Between a K5 and a K3? K3 for me.
04-29-2020, 03:41 AM - 1 Like   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by bgm1956 Quote
finally deciding to give up the Pentax LX
As others have already said, it might be you worth considering the K1 too... especially if you like the viewfinder on the LX...

As a bonus... all your LX lenses will behave themselves in the same way.


Last edited by Kerrowdown; 04-29-2020 at 03:47 AM.
04-29-2020, 08:04 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by calsan Quote
My tip for digital is that an underexposed photo can be saved. The even slightly overexposed parts of your photo can't be recovered and look horrendous.

Therefore, if you have a scene with a lot of contrast - deliberately underexpose the whole scene and remember to fix it up when you 'develop' it in your computer.

This is the main benefit of shooting digital RAW, but even this is true to a lesser extent in that jpegs can be partly fixed up when underexposed. I had my doubts about digital processing at first, thinking it would suck up too much time, but it's really not much of a hassle. Once you get used to it, you get pretty fast. Soon everyone will be giving you comments on 'how good your camera' is.
And when shooting RAW, you're battery could last 50% longer than when shooting JPG because the camera processor doesn't have to do the conversion.
As an addition, i always use a grey-card when white balance has to be spot-on.
04-29-2020, 10:27 AM - 1 Like   #36
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After 3 pages of comments, I want to say, start slowly. You are not just moving from film to digital, but from MF to AF, from manual winding to many FPS... get a camera you like with a simple, but current lens and play with it. If price is an issue get a used older model to get a feel for digital.
Staying with Pentax is good, but honestly, figure out what you like from a camera. What cameras have you tried with recently?
04-29-2020, 11:46 AM   #37
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Let me throw in my two cents. If I were you, I'd start with the K-5iis. Why? It's the best and most economical used cameras available (K-3 is next in line) and it's an excellent choice for honing your digital skills. Once you overcome the learning curve transitioning to digital, you can get serious about getting the best camera for your shooting style and you will have a great backup camera in your arsenal.

04-29-2020, 11:46 AM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by zapp Quote
After 3 pages of comments, I want to say, start slowly. You are not just moving from film to digital, but from MF to AF, from manual winding to many FPS... get a camera you like with a simple, but current lens and play with it. If price is an issue get a used older model to get a feel for digital.
Staying with Pentax is good, but honestly, figure out what you like from a camera. What cameras have you tried with recently?
I have a winder for the LX, not a motor so it's only 2 FPS but I seldom use it on continuous. I have played with my wife's Canon T2i. That's the only DSLR I've played with and not even a lot with it. She had Canon cameras since before we were married and keeps trying to get me to change, but I don't see that happening. I still haven't fully decided which I will get, but I'm leaning towards a K-3 or K-3ii unless I find a great deal on a K-5ii with lenses.

---------- Post added 04-29-20 at 11:55 AM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by onlineflyer Quote
Let me throw in my two cents. If I were you, I'd start with the K-5iis. Why? It's the best and most economical used cameras available (K-3 is next in line) and it's an excellent choice for honing your digital skills. Once you overcome the learning curve transitioning to digital, you can get serious about getting the best camera for your shooting style and you will have a great backup camera in your arsenal.
I will definitely pick up a back up camera sometime. Besides the LX I have an ME and a Program Plus for back up. I never did get a back up for the Kowa 6, I just couldn't convince my wife that a Mamiya 645 was a back up for it What do you think the odds are of convincing her that a Mamiya or Pentax 645D is a good back up for a K-5ii or a K-3?
04-29-2020, 12:21 PM   #39
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I think I'd go K-5 II or IIs (don't care) and if the experience is good move on to a KP after the new K comes out.


If you only get one lens for the camera, I think the Pentax 18-135 would be a good choice, and you can go from there picking out primes or other zooms to compliment that lens. There are a few other good all-around choices as well but this is what I went with and have been happy with the choice.
04-29-2020, 05:26 PM - 1 Like   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by bgm1956 Quote
I have a winder for the LX, not a motor so it's only 2 FPS but I seldom use it on continuous. I have played with my wife's Canon T2i. That's the only DSLR I've played with and not even a lot with it. She had Canon cameras since before we were married and keeps trying to get me to change, but I don't see that happening. I still haven't fully decided which I will get, but I'm leaning towards a K-3 or K-3ii unless I find a great deal on a K-5ii with lenses.

---------- Post added 04-29-20 at 11:55 AM ----------


I will definitely pick up a back up camera sometime. Besides the LX I have an ME and a Program Plus for back up. I never did get a back up for the Kowa 6, I just couldn't convince my wife that a Mamiya 645 was a back up for it What do you think the odds are of convincing her that a Mamiya or Pentax 645D is a good back up for a K-5ii or a K-3?
You are like me in seldom doing what we now call burst shooting. A more bulky flagship-type body, like the K-5 IIs or K-3, has more buffer capacity which is primarily an advantage for burst shooting, as you can get off more shots before the buffer fills and then having to pause some seconds before resuming. The KP has the build quality, but a buffer not as large, in order to offer its compact design. I have both styles with the KP and K-5 IIs. As I am very conservative in my (rare) burst-shooting situations, even though I sometimes shoot collegiate indoor roller hockey, or wrestling competitions, the buffer of either has never been challenged. So in that regard the K-5 IIs or the K-3 would have the advantage for those doing substantial burst shooting.

I passed on getting the K-3 after seeing a number of tests revealing the then new K-3 as having not quite the low noise/higher ISO performance, or the dynamic range of the K-5 series. I've had the original K-5 since 2011, and got the K-5 IIs new in 2014 for half price after the K-3 came out. It omits the AA filter for superior fine detail, along with improved AF, rear LCD screen and a few other perks. Nikon then offered their same model without the AA filter and with. For less than one of theirs I got both Pentax versions. I would consider selling my perfect K-5, but after now some 6 years and still liking my K-5 IIs enough, I will continue to enjoy using it as an alternate backup for the foreseeable future. But due to its unique design and outstanding performance, I am confident I will be enjoying the KP for a very long time.

I bought the KP during a temporary price drop over 2 years ago, and I am very happy I took advantage of that to get this very unique and extremely high-performing DSLR. The design goals obviously were to present a top-level model but of a lighter, compact form that could compete in compactness with APS-C mirrorless designs while offering more features, better controls, and an outstanding optical VF, as well as providing owners of the FF Pentax K-1 with a compact top-quality APS-C alternate field-camera, even having a similar controls set, and having outstanding imaging within range of the K-1. Along with that, K-1 owners could make optimum use of the numerous exceptional Pentax DA series lenses made for APS-C, including the ultra-compact DA Limited series. An ambitious undertaking, and they succeeded.

The K-5 IIs still is a fine camera. But a DSLR being a very complicated device that yields imaging via mechanics and very advanced electronics, makes for a more precarious venture in buying a used one, compared to the mostly mechanical and chemical imaging of a film-based SLR.

I found the KP to be meaningfully better in virtually every way. Better metering for better exposures, faster and more accurate AF, the pull-out rear screen for using the camera from low or high positions, better live view, additional useful features, even better SR, and even a better viewfinder. The K-5 series VF provides an excellent 92x magnification and 100% frame coverage, while the KP provides 95% magnification with 100% coverage. I am under the impression you are in the US, but maybe not. If so, that sale I mentioned by B&H represents a unique opportunity to acquire a very unique and exceptional new camera at a price even better than the deal I got, and well below the $1,000+ range of this level product.

Even if there is a closeout sale when the new APS-C flagship model appears, the price might not go much lower. But the KP was meant to be of the same quality as a flagship, but as a compact alternative- not a flagship itself. So I hope Pentax has the wisdom not to discontinue the KP- it is just too good, and there is nothing else on the market like it.

I hope you decide for it because it brings outstanding satisfaction, unless you are one of those who are only happy with a bulkier camera body. The KP's JPEG engine produces easily the best imaging right out of the camera I have ever experienced. Many like myself use that regularly instead of bothering with RAW processing.

Its modular design with the 3 supplied interchangeable grips allows the user to adjust handling and feel to suit the situation and the lens being used. The smallest grip with one of the very compact DA Limited lenses on the KP is a delight of compactness with quality-level the best of the mirrorless crowd can only envy. Then the KP can be expanded to accommodate other lenses and situations. Going further with the optional battery grip, which can balance better with very large lenses, also supplies much more gripping surface and a set of duplicate controls for vertical shooting, the weight of the KP is then about the same as a K-3 II without an added battery grip, yet can supply even more battery life.

Last edited by mikesbike; 04-29-2020 at 05:49 PM.
04-29-2020, 06:48 PM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by Wasp Quote
Pentax do make additional focusing screens for your viewing pleasure but not one with a split image focus aid.
The reason for Pentax not having a split image focusing screen is that the split image part of the screen will interfere with the meter readings if using the spot metering option. I have KatzEye screens in both of my K-5s. They warned you of this "problem" on their website. Unfortunately they have closed shop. Their screens were excellent. They would install the screen and calibrate it for you if you sent them your camera.
04-30-2020, 05:17 AM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by bgm1956 Quote
I will want to use some of my old glass so I need interchangeable focusing screens.
I've used old glass with my KP and have not needed interchangeable screens. The green hexagon focus confirmation light is infinitely easier to use and more accurate than any split/micro-prism screen I've used. Also, the KP has a reasonably bright view finder to help with focus. Nothing against using different screens, but you absolutely do not NEED one.

Another benefit of the KP over other options is low light performance. It would be an excellent choice for shooting your grandson's sports.

Right now, B&H has specials: $350 off the KP and $172 off the 16-85mm lens. That's what I would recommend. I would not buy used older models since they're old technology and have no warranty.

Just a reminder, if you buy new, use a vendor link through this website so that PF gets the small commission.
04-30-2020, 05:31 AM   #43
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Something to know or remember about old manual glass like M-series and K-series k-mount lenses; Pentax doesn't have a mount to read the aperture ring position like an LX has. You have to command a stop-down metering to get the camera to meter the scene. Either the green button on the camera will do this with adjustments made for you or you can use the DoF Preview function to get it to read via your current adjustments. This isn't a big deal in practice (in my opinion anyway) but it is worth noting. The great thing about Pentax digital cameras is how the ISO setting is basically a boost and the same effect can be done in post-processing via the Exposure slider in programs like Lightroom. Effectively you can just make sure that the settings are close enough, under-expose for the scene a bit, and then fix when you get home. You don't need to sweat this, basically, just know that it's a thing and there are ways to deal with it either at the time or later. Shooting in RAW mode instead of JPEG is key here.
04-30-2020, 05:50 AM - 1 Like   #44
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I built a light digital "travel kit" from years of photographic experience : a Pentax K3 body + DA 12-24 mm f/4, FA 35 mm f/2 and DA* 60-250 mm f/4. I can do pretty much everything with this set-up, except "wildlife" (no interest in this field of endeavor). I also have a DFA 100 mm f/2.8 Macro. More recently, I purchased a K1 + DFA 28-105 mm HD that is lighter and permits me to get 85 % of what the more complete APS-C kit would give me on the go. Either way, you can't go wrong. Just my 2 cents.

Regards
04-30-2020, 06:36 PM   #45
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If wanting to work with a very compact, top-quality zoom lens, there's the DA 20-40mm f/2.8-4 DC WR Limited (FOV equivalent to 30-60mm on a 35mm film body). B&H also now has $300 off the price of this fine lens. Built like crazy, and with superb imaging quality, its compactness goes on the KP like a custom-made glove. It is a favorite of mine for hiking and biking keeping gear as compact as I can, while at the same time imaging is outstanding. I have then the tiny DA 15mm Limited in the front accessory pocket of my belt+shoulder strap camera holster case, and either the DA 70mm or FA 77mm Limited in a light jacket pocket. All of these lenses are available in silver as well as black.

This zoom lens could alternatively be combined with the DA 55-300mm PLM telephoto lens, which is great to extend reach while still being compact. If I need more flexibility, the DA 18-135mm DC WR still matches well on the KP being remarkably compact for a wide-ranging zoom lens, while build and image quality are very fine indeed.

Last edited by mikesbike; 04-30-2020 at 06:44 PM.
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