[davy5toes]

Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone would be kind enough to give me the best technique/ advice for manual focus on my k-5 with a tamron 135mm f2.5 adaptall 2 lens handheld (menu settings like InFocus capture, af-s focus assist etc.). Also I can't seem to get the focus confirmation "beep" when I dial in. I'm currently using a tripod with auto focus engaged on camera body, set on af-s and using focus zoom all the way in for max sharpness. All of this seems a much longer process as against auto focus which is obvious but doing this handheld would seem impossible using handheld. So in a nutshell what is the best technique/settings to get sharp images using handheld. I've read about the InFocus setting technique where I would keep shutter pressed and once in focus automatically takes the shot but I wouldn't have thought it would have been too accurate if using handheld and very low to the ground. Anyway I hope this all makes sense, thanks all for looking.

[luftfluss]

I use the Pentax O-ME53 eyecup, and press the shutter button when the image looks to be in focus.

There is also this pretty advanced article on calibrating your camera for focus confirmation.

Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone would be kind enough to give me the best technique/ advice for manual focus on my k-5 with a tamron 135mm f2.5 adaptall 2 lens handheld (menu settings like InFocus capture, af-s focus assist etc.). Also I can't seem to get the focus confirmation "beep" when I dial in. I'm currently using a tripod with auto focus engaged on camera body, set on af-s and using focus zoom all the way in for max sharpness. All of this seems a much longer process as against auto focus which is obvious but doing this handheld would seem impossible using handheld. So in a nutshell what is the best technique/settings to get sharp images using handheld. I've read about the InFocus setting technique where I would keep shutter pressed and once in focus automatically takes the shot but I wouldn't have thought it would have been too accurate if using handheld and very low to the ground. Anyway I hope this all makes sense, thanks all for looking.

You use focus zoom so I guess you use live view. That is probably the reason you do not get the beep, because you can visually decide if the picture is sharp. Through the viewfinder you get help from the system which shows you the green hexagon and gives a beep. If you want to focus handheld use the viewfinder, holding the camera against your head gives you that extra stabilization you need. Manual focusing handheld with live view is very very difficult. Catch in focus is very accurate, but you have to focus quite slowly or evenly. Use SR at all times and use a shutter speed that is above your focal length, so 1/250 I would say. My experience is that manual focusing on the small APS-C viewfinder is very difficult. I think that doing it with live view on a tripod with focus zoom is probably the best way to use old manual glass. If I really want to use manual focus and sometimes I do, then it is with an old 50mm or 28mm most of the time. I do it handheld with the viewfinder. If the lens is not to heavy, I do it with live view if I use my K-01. But most of the time my subjects force me to use AF. By the way I do not think that AF-S focus assist works with a manual lens, so you can leave it off. I only notice that it works with an AF-lens.

[paulh]

If the lens mount is anodized, the green hexagon and beep may not work. I have a Vivitar 135 that had this problem. I lightly sanded the anodized mount to allow contact with the camera's AF system.

[marcusBMG]

First step is to make sure you have dialled in any diopter correction you may need, and the alignment lines on the focus screen look as sharp as they can be when you look through the viewfinder. Any lack on this point will terminally limit your ability to focus by eye. i also use a magnifier - a tenpa 1.3x, I am not sure if you can still get these, I tried an O-ME53 but much prefer this. A magnifier is an assist at the expense of a restriction of the field of view in the VF, and a loss of brightness of the subject (the latter is why I have never got on with a 2x VF magnifier).
Focus confirm beep is also a menu setting on or off, and volume of alerts is another setting. it doesn't really matter where you put the AFC-AFS-MF lever, there is no AF connect so MF it is. Focus confirm: - on will mean no shutter release unless the camera thinks focus is good.

It is important to realise that you are limited by the focus screen not being optimised for visual focus. We presume the focus screen is aimed at the relatively slow kit lens ie f3.5-5.6. In practice, I find that fast lenses like the 50mm f1.7's are always easier to focus and the slow lenses the most difficult, in line with the DoF wide open and the much brighter Vf image you get with the fast lenses.

IME "getting your eye in" is an important part of MF. Take lots of pics (it costs nothing) and do a lot of instant reviewing to check focus, and of comparing focus by eye and focus in Live view. This will help you pick up on front focus/back focus tendencies with a lens. Relate results also to focus confirm corroboration.
To make use of LV on the fly, a loupe is the way to go ie video style. But even with a loupe it's pretty hopeless for action. But the point is magnified live view is the best focus tool you've got.
The tamron adaptall is a relatively fast 135mm, and a sharp lens. IME it's a pretty good lens for MF. Depending which mount you have it will operate like a "M", "A" or M42 lens.

[pepperberry farm]

my K-5 IIs is my manual-focus only camera body - it has an M42 adapter on it and I only use it for MF lenses...

that being said - I use an O-ME53 viewer and always use the viewer if I am using the camera hand-held; I'll use LiveView occasionally on a tripod or if the body is on a table, but that's it....

I make sure the diopter is correct for me, especially if the camera has been in my bag, where it's easy to bump the adjustment ......

after that, it's just practice, practice, practice...

this is where shooting every day - day in and day out - helps tremendously....

[bertwert]

Lots of good advice here...

As far as what I do - I have things set up a bit funny* for my manually focusing a tele lens... but the gist of it is to turn the focus ring until the focus looks good (sometimes having to rock back and forwards on the focus and find the middle ground...) and take a photo.

If you're interested in catch-in-focus, take a look at this article here, it's got all the info you need: Catch-in-Focus Tutorial - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com
I find that it can be quite useful for birds in flight...


Sometimes, with more tricky subjects, the answer is to simply use burst mode and take several images, deleting the out-of-focus ones...


Since you're interested in landscape photography, you have a bit more time when manually focusing there. You can set up on a tripod, open live-view, and zoom in. Focus peaking is also a choice - I've always disliked using it, however I'm starting to use it more for flowers shots and landscapes and finding a bit of success...


Overall, the real answer is practice. It takes time to become proficient, I've had that A 400 (used in the shots above) for two years now and only recently have I been able to focus quickly and more accurately.

*set up with catch-in-focus on the shutter button, and cancel AF on the back button, so I can take a shot I deem in focus that the camera doesn't... except for this one user mode, in other shooting I have back button only AF as I like focus and shutter to be two completely different functions... I also have all the beeps and things turned off, so I ignore/not notice focus confirmation half the time...

---

Last edited by bertwert; 05-19-2020 at 06:14 PM.

[rpjallan]

WOW! A bee in flight! That's outrageous. You must be one patient guy...

[davy5toes]

I use the Pentax O-ME53 eyecup, and press the shutter button when the image looks to be in focus.

There is also this pretty advanced article on calibrating your camera for focus confirmation.

I've just sourced one of these eyecups luftfluss, great idea and thanks for your input.

---------- Post added 05-20-20 at 12:12 AM ----------

You use focus zoom so I guess you use live view. That is probably the reason you do not get the beep, because you can visually decide if the picture is sharp. Through the viewfinder you get help from the system which shows you the green hexagon and gives a beep. If you want to focus handheld use the viewfinder, holding the camera against your head gives you that extra stabilization you need. Manual focusing handheld with live view is very very difficult. Catch in focus is very accurate, but you have to focus quite slowly or evenly. Use SR at all times and use a shutter speed that is above your focal length, so 1/250 I would say. My experience is that manual focusing on the small APS-C viewfinder is very difficult. I think that doing it with live view on a tripod with focus zoom is probably the best way to use old manual glass. If I really want to use manual focus and sometimes I do, then it is with an old 50mm or 28mm most of the time. I do it handheld with the viewfinder. If the lens is not to heavy, I do it with live view if I use my K-01. But most of the time my subjects force me to use AF. By the way I do not think that AF-S focus assist works with a manual lens, so you can leave it off. I only notice that it works with an AF-lens.

Many many thanks afterpentax, a great in-depth reply which will be invaluable. Thank you so much

[davy5toes]

If the lens mount is anodized, the green hexagon and beep may not work. I have a Vivitar 135 that had this problem. I lightly sanded the anodized mount to allow contact with the camera's AF system.

Ah paulh, I read this somewhere else so must obviously work. Will try it if all else fails paulh and thanks very much for your valued input.

[kypfer]

The behaviour of a Tamron Adaptall-2 lens on a Pentax camera can differ depending on which Adaptall-2 mount is fitted.
The Tamron-original PKA mount is the least troublesome, unless yours has that nuisance spot of varnish/sealant on the little screw that falls directly under the camera contact ... easily solved with a quick scrape This will give a lens that will work with the auto-exposure modes, Av, TAv, Tv & P(rogram).
Original Tamron PK or PK/M mounts are usually no problem, but only work in M(anual), or wide-open in Av.
Some aftermarket Adaptall mounts are fully anodised/painted and won't work for "catch-in-focus" unless the coating is removed in the appropriate area.


Enjoy your Tamron lens, they're a good performer

[davy5toes]

First step is to make sure you have dialled in any diopter correction you may need, and the alignment lines on the focus screen look as sharp as they can be when you look through the viewfinder. Any lack on this point will terminally limit your ability to focus by eye. i also use a magnifier - a tenpa 1.3x, I am not sure if you can still get these, I tried an O-ME53 but much prefer this. A magnifier is an assist at the expense of a restriction of the field of view in the VF, and a loss of brightness of the subject (the latter is why I have never got on with a 2x VF magnifier).
Focus confirm beep is also a menu setting on or off, and volume of alerts is another setting. it doesn't really matter where you put the AFC-AFS-MF lever, there is no AF connect so MF it is. Focus confirm: - on will mean no shutter release unless the camera thinks focus is good.

It is important to realise that you are limited by the focus screen not being optimised for visual focus. We presume the focus screen is aimed at the relatively slow kit lens ie f3.5-5.6. In practice, I find that fast lenses like the 50mm f1.7's are always easier to focus and the slow lenses the most difficult, in line with the DoF wide open and the much brighter Vf image you get with the fast lenses.

IME "getting your eye in" is an important part of MF. Take lots of pics (it costs nothing) and do a lot of instant reviewing to check focus, and of comparing focus by eye and focus in Live view. This will help you pick up on front focus/back focus tendencies with a lens. Relate results also to focus confirm corroboration.
To make use of LV on the fly, a loupe is the way to go ie video style. But even with a loupe it's pretty hopeless for action. But the point is magnified live view is the best focus tool you've got.
The tamron adaptall is a relatively fast 135mm, and a sharp lens. IME it's a pretty good lens for MF. Depending which mount you have it will operate like a "M", "A" or M42 lens.

Wow marcusbmg that's a great response and extremely useful. I already own a loupe and can see a tenpa 1.22x magnifier advertised on the famous auction site for £40 which appears very reasonable as some cost in excess of £130. I very much appreciate your time and effort marcusbmg for this priceless advice which I will refer to and digest. My very best to you.

---------- Post added 05-20-20 at 01:44 AM ----------

my K-5 IIs is my manual-focus only camera body - it has an M42 adapter on it and I only use it for MF lenses...

that being said - I use an O-ME53 viewer and always use the viewer if I am using the camera hand-held; I'll use LiveView occasionally on a tripod or if the body is on a table, but that's it....

I make sure the diopter is correct for me, especially if the camera has been in my bag, where it's easy to bump the adjustment ......

after that, it's just practice, practice, practice...

this is where shooting every day - day in and day out - helps tremendously....

Like everything else pepperberry, practice make almost perfect. Some great info there and really appreciate you taking time to reply. Many thanks.

---------- Post added 05-20-20 at 01:54 AM ----------

Lots of good advice here...

As far as what I do - I have things set up a bit funny* for my manually focusing a tele lens... but the gist of it is to turn the focus ring until the focus looks good (sometimes having to rock back and forwards on the focus and find the middle ground...) and take a photo.

If you're interested in catch-in-focus, take a look at this article here, it's got all the info you need: Catch-in-Focus Tutorial - Articles and Tips | PentaxForums.com
I find that it can be quite useful for birds in flight...


Sometimes, with more tricky subjects, the answer is to simply use burst mode and take several images, deleting the out-of-focus ones...


Since you're interested in landscape photography, you have a bit more time when manually focusing there. You can set up on a tripod, open live-view, and zoom in. Focus peaking is also a choice - I've always disliked using it, however I'm starting to use it more for flowers shots and landscapes and finding a bit of success...


Overall, the real answer is practice. It takes time to become proficient, I've had that A 400 (used in the shots above) for two years now and only recently have I been able to focus quickly and more accurately.

*set up with catch-in-focus on the shutter button, and cancel AF on the back button, so I can take a shot I deem in focus that the camera doesn't... except for this one user mode, in other shooting I have back button only AF as I like focus and shutter to be two completely different functions... I also have all the beeps and things turned off, so I ignore/not notice focus confirmation half the time...

You've done it again Robert, never fail to amaze with some absolute "pearls" of wisdom. You're dead right Robert I've had some absolute cracking responses to this question and very much appreciate them all. The tamron lens I got was purely for "isolating" subjects to create out of focus backgrounds/foregrounds giving a beautiful bokeh (depth of field is unbelievably shallow with this lens even when stopped down quite far). Your "pearls" will be used for a reference as with your other replies you've given me prior to this. Much much appreciation Robert and I send my very kindest your way mate.

---------- Post added 05-20-20 at 02:00 AM ----------

The behaviour of a Tamron Adaptall-2 lens on a Pentax camera can differ depending on which Adaptall-2 mount is fitted.
The Tamron-original PKA mount is the least troublesome, unless yours has that nuisance spot of varnish/sealant on the little screw that falls directly under the camera contact ... easily solved with a quick scrape This will give a lens that will work with the auto-exposure modes, Av, TAv, Tv & P(rogram).
Original Tamron PK or PK/M mounts are usually no problem, but only work in M(anual), or wide-open in Av.
Some aftermarket Adaptall mounts are fully anodised/painted and won't work for "catch-in-focus" unless the coating is removed in the appropriate area.


Enjoy your Tamron lens, they're a good performer

Hi kypfer, very very interesting. I was gonna pull the trigger on a pka adapter but was told it doesn't function properly when aperture wide/fairly wide open. Wouldn't care I could have got it for pennies but resorted to a ok adapter. I'll keep my eyes open for another pka adapter. Anyway kypfer I very much appreciate your valued input and Sen you my kindest mate

[robgski]

Remember that a telephoto lens has a thinner DOF, so "zone focusing" with a stopped down lens (f8+) is recommended. Combined with "Catch in Focus" enabled, as well as patience and practice, your keeper rate should improve.

[davy5toes]

Remember that a telephoto lens has a thinner DOF, so "zone focusing" with a stopped down lens (f8+) is recommended. Combined with "Catch in Focus" enabled, as well as patience and practice, your keeper rate should improve.

Hi robgski, absolutely brilliant response to my question. I really never took telephoto/wider aperture into account. You've been a great help robgski and thank you immensely.

[davy5toes]

I use the Pentax O-ME53 eyecup, and press the shutter button when the image looks to be in focus.

There is also this pretty advanced article on calibrating your camera for focus confirmation.

Hi loftfluss, not sure you got my reply but I'd just like to thank you immensely for your very interesting and valued reply.