[ChristianRock]

The thing I find when shooting with my k-10d is I am never sure what I might get. These were shot at 1600iso which I normally avoid with this camera. Edited in lightroom for noise reduction and basic panel corrections. Love the blue color in the sweat shirt in the 2nd pic.

My wife, who is a painter, just looked at them and loved the colors and said if she was to paint this the reflections on the glass jars would be really hard to paint. ChristianRock is this another example of the glass looking like glass?

Wow, those cleaned up really well, didn't they? I tend to avoid ISO 1600 with the K10D and K200D as well, but I've said it before... the secret is to expose properly. As long as you don't have to lift up any shadows, it holds up very well, better than people think it does.

Yes the glass looks good... nothing dramatic, just looks like it should

Look at that red rose. Some CMOS bodies (and that also depends on the lenses by the way) would blow out that red, and add either an orange cast replacing most of the red tones, or add deep burgundy overtones (I'm looking at you K-3 ). K10D (and K200D), if the lens renders well(*), will show proper reds.

(*) A while back I compared my SMC-A 70-210mm f4 and my SMC DA 35mm f/2.4 taking a picture of a rose. Lovely red nuances in the older A lens, but the added contrast of the newer DA lens made it lose details. This was back on the K20D days, I should redo the comparison with the K200D and the K-S2 as well... but the point is, the sensor will only register what the lens will give it.

[jimmm18]

Wow, those cleaned up really well, didn't they? I tend to avoid ISO 1600 with the K10D and K200D as well, but I've said it before... the secret is to expose properly. As long as you don't have to lift up any shadows, it holds up very well, better than people think it does.

Yes the glass looks good... nothing dramatic, just looks like it should

Look at that red rose. Some CMOS bodies (and that also depends on the lenses by the way) would blow out that red, and add either an orange cast replacing most of the red tones, or add deep burgundy overtones (I'm looking at you K-3 ). K10D (and K200D), if the lens renders well(*), will show proper reds.

(*) A while back I compared my SMC-A 70-210mm f4 and my SMC DA 35mm f/2.4 taking a picture of a rose. Lovely red nuances in the older A lens, but the added contrast of the newer DA lens made it lose details. This was back on the K20D days, I should redo the comparison with the K200D and the K-S2 as well... but the point is, the sensor will only register what the lens will give it.

I have definately run into my cameras blowing out the red channel. I recall once trying to take pictures of some roses and could not get the reds to match what I was seeing. I think you are right about getting the exposure right though I relied on the camera for both of the pics. Also the FA43 I was using could have some influence on these pics. I think it is currently my favorite lens.

[Dartmoor Dave]

The thing I find when shooting with my k-10d is I am never sure what I might get. These were shot at 1600iso which I normally avoid with this camera. Edited in lightroom for noise reduction and basic panel corrections. Love the blue color in the sweat shirt in the 2nd pic.

My wife, who is a painter, just looked at them and loved the colors and said if she was to paint this the reflections on the glass jars would be really hard to paint. ChristianRock is this another example of the glass looking like glass?

Perhaps the reason why you're not sure what you're going to get with the K10D is that you've always been used to the way CMOS sensors behave, so that it's taking time to be able to predict what a CCD will do? And on the flip side of that, maybe the reason why some people (like me) have always stuck with CCD is that we've never given ourselves time to "tune in" to the way CMOS sensors render the world?

It's interesting that your wife could see a difference in the CCD colours right away. As a painter it's likely that she's got a highly sophisticated level of colour perception, and can see differences that look obvious to her when the rest of us might not notice them at all.

On a sort of vaguely related note, one of the reasons why Takumar lenses produce such unique and beautiful results is that the Japanese/American artist and photographer Takuma Kajiwara played a part in creating their characteristic look. He was the brother of Kumai Kajiwara, the founder of Asahi Optical, and Takumars are named after him. Personally I wish modern lens (and sensor) manufacturers were asking artists for design input too, rather than just doing it all by computer.

[pepperberry farm]

On a sort of vaguely related note, one of the reasons why Takumar lenses produce such unique and beautiful results is that the Japanese/American artist and photographer Takuma Kajiwara played a part in creating their characteristic look. He was the brother of Kumai Kajiwara, the founder of Asahi Optical, and Takumars are named after him. Personally I wish modern lens (and sensor) manufacturers were asking artists for design input too, rather than just doing it all by computer.

I've read this before and completely agree with the idea that there should be more people involved in the design process, and allowing our eyes back into the process - superior sharpness and zero aberrations is what's led us to monstrously-sized lenses, etc....

no, thank you....

[jimmm18]

Perhaps the reason why you're not sure what you're going to get with the K10D is that you've always been used to the way CMOS sensors behave, so that it's taking time to be able to predict what a CCD will do? And on the flip side of that, maybe the reason why some people (like me) have always stuck with CCD is that we've never given ourselves time to "tune in" to the way CMOS sensors render the world?

Maybe but I am not sure that I am that sophisticated of a photographer. My workflow has been to try to get the pic in focus and close to exposed right, composed the best I can and then crop and correct in Lightroom. Recently I got into the Fuji systems and now have a GRiiix and have started to work with SOOC pics.

With the 10D I run into 3 issues; White balance, ISO limitations and megapixel count. In my kitchen I have warm white florescent lighting that the 10D cannot get right, no mater which option I chose. Yes I could do a gray card test but, well, never did that. And Lightroom fixes it perfectly. On the ISO limitations, underexposing at high ISO does not seem to recover well. The two pics I did surprised me. I didn't realize I was shooting that high as I was just trying to get the shutter speed up to avoid blur. I started digital with a K-X and pick it specifically based on the reviews at the time and its better ISO performance. And the megapixel count limits the cropping and, to my eye, not as sharp?

It's interesting that your wife could see a difference in the CCD colours right away. As a painter it's likely that she's got a highly sophisticated level of colour perception, and can see differences that look obvious to her when the rest of us might not notice them at all.

Yes, there are many things she sees. I am a very intuitive photographer. She says I have a good eye but I have no idea why. But she is my biggest fan

On a sort of vaguely related note, one of the reasons why Takumar lenses produce such unique and beautiful results is that the Japanese/American artist and photographer Takuma Kajiwara played a part in creating their characteristic look. He was the brother of Kumai Kajiwara, the founder of Asahi Optical, and Takumars are named after him. Personally I wish modern lens (and sensor) manufacturers were asking artists for design input too, rather than just doing it all by computer.

Interesting concept. I have not usually noticed big differences in the color rendering of different lenses. I can tell when they are sharp but I haven't kept track of color. Not sure I am ready to go down that rabbit hole but are all the Takumars screw mount?

But that all being said I am enjoying the journey. On a separate note, I am finding the k2000 resolves some of the white balance and higher ISO issues. I think the color rendering is very similar to the 10d but still working with it.

[paulh]

DA21 Ltd on *ist DS


Lumix LX3

[Dartmoor Dave]

A couple of test snaps with a Sigma 18-35mm that arrived today * . The plan is to use it for film, but a few quick tests around the farm suggest that it might make a very good walkabout lens for the K100D too.





( * It's not THAT Sigma 18-35mm. Not the fancy new one. It's the old film era version.)

[paulh]

It's the old film era version

Looks good, Dave - poor Teddy!

[hjortron]

K100D + SMC 24/2.8, darktable developed

[jimmm18]

A couple of test snaps with a Sigma 18-35mm that arrived today * . The plan is to use it for film, but a few quick tests around the farm suggest that it might make a very good walkabout lens for the K100D too.
( * It's not THAT Sigma 18-35mm. Not the fancy new one. It's the old film era version.)

They do look good!! I like the colors and texture.

[paulh]

K100D + SMC 24/2.8, darktable developed

Cclever Ccaption

[ChristianRock]

With the 10D I run into 3 issues; White balance, ISO limitations and megapixel count. In my kitchen I have warm white florescent lighting that the 10D cannot get right, no mater which option I chose. Yes I could do a gray card test but, well, never did that. And Lightroom fixes it perfectly. On the ISO limitations, underexposing at high ISO does not seem to recover well. The two pics I did surprised me. I didn't realize I was shooting that high as I was just trying to get the shutter speed up to avoid blur. I started digital with a K-X and pick it specifically based on the reviews at the time and its better ISO performance. And the megapixel count limits the cropping and, to my eye, not as sharp?
.

Just wanted to address a couple things here...

First, with the K10D, or CCD cameras in general, don't underexpose. Exposing right will reward you not only with cleaner pictures, but with more accurate colors as well. It's a different frame of mind, when you shoot the CCDs, compared with CMOS - at least to me.

Second... yeah auto white balance indoors will always be off with these older cameras. That is another reason why I always shoot RAW.

[ChristianRock]

A couple of test snaps with a Sigma 18-35mm that arrived today * . The plan is to use it for film, but a few quick tests around the farm suggest that it might make a very good walkabout lens for the K100D too.





( * It's not THAT Sigma 18-35mm. Not the fancy new one. It's the old film era version.)

I like these a lot. I think this lens will suit your style very well. You have a winner here!

[ivanvernon]

Shots with Sony A390 and Minolta 100mm f 2.8 Macro 1:1, AF. The Sony A390 is an APS-c camera with a 14.2 mp CCD sensor.

[jimmm18]

Just wanted to address a couple things here...

First, with the K10D, or CCD cameras in general, don't underexpose. Exposing right will reward you not only with cleaner pictures, but with more accurate colors as well. It's a different frame of mind, when you shoot the CCDs, compared with CMOS - at least to me.

Second... yeah auto white balance indoors will always be off with these older cameras. That is another reason why I always shoot RAW.

I think I just discovered that 3 mins ago on my own. Thanks for the confirmation. That may be why the ones that I posted, even at 1600, came out ok. Thanks!

Another question: I have 3 ccd camera and everyone of them needs their autofocus corrected with the debug tool. My k2000 is nearly new. Is this normal and how did people test these and say the autofocus was good?