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02-27-2009, 11:07 AM   #16
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A word to the wise regarding studio strobes.
If your attachment between the camera and flash involves a two blade plug (similar to a wall outlet style of plug), often the flash will fail to fire because of reversed polarity. If you have a plug of this kind attaching the camera to the flash, try reversing the plug and see if that doesn't cure misfires.

Interestingly, I have to switch the plugs on the studio lights at work around when I shoot because the Nikon's polarity is reversed from the Pentax.

02-27-2009, 01:04 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ben_Edict Quote
The only explanation that comes to my mind is, that the pc connectors on the camera side is loose. You know, these tiny plugs are really not the last word connection-wise and often do not have a tight fit.

Another possible explanation lies completely with the flashes: The flash is triggered when the flash's sync voltage is connected to Ground. May be, if that happens, a capacitor gets loaded, which prevents another short soon after that?

One possible remedy would be to use a wireless trigger (radio trigger or IR). At least you could try, if that remedies the problem, without additional cost: Just use the camera's internal flash and let the Interfit's fire as slaves. If that is possible continously, an external, wireless trigger should also work.

Ben
Is there a way disable the p-ttl pre-flash on the k20? The strobes have built in optical slaves but fire during the pre-flash. As best as I know that cannot be disabled on the strobe's end.
02-27-2009, 01:51 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by code4code5 Quote
Is there a way disable the p-ttl pre-flash on the k20? The strobes have built in optical slaves but fire during the pre-flash. As best as I know that cannot be disabled on the strobe's end.
That is tricky. As far as I know, there is no official way to switch the internal flash to anything but P-TTL. BUT if you use a lens with a real aperture ring (any K, M, A or FA) and set the aperture via the ring (any aperture number except A), the flash will always fire fully, without any P-TTL control. This seems to be the only way to use it as a master flash for triggering "dumb" studio flashes.

Ben
02-27-2009, 02:41 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ben_Edict Quote
That is tricky. As far as I know, there is no official way to switch the internal flash to anything but P-TTL. BUT if you use a lens with a real aperture ring (any K, M, A or FA) and set the aperture via the ring (any aperture number except A), the flash will always fire fully, without any P-TTL control. This seems to be the only way to use it as a master flash for triggering "dumb" studio flashes.

Ben
All right... Now I have to log off and try it. Seems like the perfect use for my m50 f/2.

02-27-2009, 04:16 PM   #20
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code4code5:
You should really get a set of wireless triggers. The fleabay V2s triggers work fine for me. I run my K20D in TaV or M mode and they fire all the time. No need to use x-sync and I can run them up to 1/180 w/ nikon hotshoe flashes..
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