Forgot Password
Pentax Camera Forums Home
 

Reply
Show Printable Version Search this Thread
11-13-2008, 02:31 PM   #1
Senior Member
CaymanImaging's Avatar

Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 194
Studio Strobes and X-Sync for K20

I just got my new set off White Lightning x1600s and was messing around the other day. I hooked on the sync cord to the K20 and noticed that the strobes would not fire in manual mode, unlike a flash does. But is does when you change the dial to x sync mode, which sets the shutter speed to 180.

Am I stuck at always using 180 or is there a way to slow it down?

Thanks!

11-13-2008, 02:49 PM   #2
Inactive Account




Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 731
you are stuck with 1/180 as a max shutter speed, you can go slower, but not faster.

Check your shutter speed in M mode, and make sure it's 180 or less and they should fire no problem.
11-14-2008, 12:26 PM   #3
Senior Member
CaymanImaging's Avatar

Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 194
Original Poster
I tried it on manual and the strobes did not fire. Put it on x-sync, no problem. I would think that in manual mode it would work, just like my dedicated flash does. I want to shoot with a slower speed than 180, but it's locked on that in x sync mode. Could there be some setting that I'm missing to allow me to shoot strobes in manual mode??
11-14-2008, 12:32 PM   #4
Veteran Member
Ben_Edict's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: SouthWest "Regio"
Photos: Albums
Posts: 3,303
QuoteOriginally posted by CaymanImaging Quote
I tried it on manual and the strobes did not fire. Put it on x-sync, no problem. I would think that in manual mode it would work, just like my dedicated flash does. I want to shoot with a slower speed than 180, but it's locked on that in x sync mode. Could there be some setting that I'm missing to allow me to shoot strobes in manual mode??
There is a menue setting for allowing slow shutter speed snyc (it is in the FN menue, flash modes). I never tried whether I need that enabled with studio flash, though, as I have this option enabled basically all the time. My studio flashes work perfectly with manually set shutter speeds, so it might be this setting.

Ben

11-14-2008, 12:43 PM   #5
Senior Member
CaymanImaging's Avatar

Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 194
Original Poster
Thanks Ben! I'll give it a shot!
11-14-2008, 12:59 PM   #6
Veteran Member
*isteve's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: London, England
Posts: 1,187
QuoteOriginally posted by CaymanImaging Quote
I just got my new set off White Lightning x1600s and was messing around the other day. I hooked on the sync cord to the K20 and noticed that the strobes would not fire in manual mode, unlike a flash does. But is does when you change the dial to x sync mode, which sets the shutter speed to 180.

Am I stuck at always using 180 or is there a way to slow it down?

Thanks!
Best thing is to buy a cheap IR trigger and get rid of the sync cable. Then you can fire the stobes in any mode.
11-14-2008, 01:44 PM   #7
Senior Member
CaymanImaging's Avatar

Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 194
Original Poster
I was able to get it to in M mode today. I found out that I have to plug the sync cord in first, then power the strobes up and all is well. I did it the reverse order yesterday and it didn't work, only in x sync mode.

These White Lighnings are bright!! I have them very close to the lowest power, shooting about f11 at 100 iso. Gonna be great when I have a dark church wedding. I highly recommed these lights to anyone. They are much like Pentax. Not the big guy, for you get quality stuff at reasonable prices.

The pictures look soooo much better now that I have enough light to close the aperture and raise the iso speed. I was using a flourencant bulb system. World of difference!

And I do plan on purchasing White Lightnings soon to be released wireless system. It's just that whole lack of money thing!!
11-28-2008, 08:48 PM   #8
Inactive Account




Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: manila, philippines
Posts: 1
Hi to all,
Does any body use RF to trigger the FGZ540 off cam (though i know it can be trigger'd wirelessly).
Coz i have a problem triggering it (it seems that the firing is lagging by a few seconds). I can only capture the light on 1/30 shutter speed faster than that i can not.
I use K10D and a cheap RF trigger.

11-29-2008, 01:02 AM   #9
Veteran Member
Mike Cash's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Japan
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 6,952
QuoteOriginally posted by *isteve Quote
Best thing is to buy a cheap IR trigger and get rid of the sync cable. Then you can fire the stobes in any mode.
In what other modes would it be advantageous to fire them?
11-30-2008, 07:48 AM   #10
Senior Member




Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 181
QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Cash Quote
In what other modes would it be advantageous to fire them?
Mike...for example, you might want a slow shutter speed with flash to drag the shutter...juLiE mEitZ, 16mm film mixing on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

... lower shutter speed than 160 but faster speed than you'd ordinarily use in a natural setting to bring up the ambient lighting vs flash on the subject...so your background isn't as dark vs a brightly lit subject...commonly done when using flash to help an outdoor portrait...eg flash-lit fashion model on beach keeping dramatic sunset....this can be subtle if you want.
11-30-2008, 08:38 AM   #11
Veteran Member
Mike Cash's Avatar

Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Japan
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 6,952
QuoteOriginally posted by janosh Quote
Mike...for example, you might want a slow shutter speed with flash to drag the shutter...juLiE mEitZ, 16mm film mixing on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

... lower shutter speed than 160 but faster speed than you'd ordinarily use in a natural setting to bring up the ambient lighting vs flash on the subject...so your background isn't as dark vs a brightly lit subject...commonly done when using flash to help an outdoor portrait...eg flash-lit fashion model on beach keeping dramatic sunset....this can be subtle if you want.
I understand that, but that only answers the question of why it would be advantageous to use a slower shutter speed. I asked why it would be advantageous to use some mode other than M or X. How would what you describe be better facilitated by doing it in Av, Sv, Tv, P, etc?
12-03-2008, 10:19 AM   #12
Inactive Account




Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Yorkshire, UK
Posts: 7
Hey there...

1st post... so sorry its a question!!

I've recently bought myself a studio stobe kit... it's an Interfit ex150II, so only a starter setup.

I started using it with my istDs, using a flash block on the hotshoe with sync cable. Every time I took a photo, I had to remove the flash block and then replace it again otherwise the strobes would not fire on the next shot. I put this down to the little block I was using.

The money was right, so I bought a k20d. Pleased that it had the x sync socket, I thought it would alleviate the single flash problem. It did for about 20 shots, where I could fire off shot after shot as long as the strobes had recharged.

But then it started doing the same thing. Every shot, I had to remove the cable and re connect it other wise the strobes wouldn't fire.

I don't know where to start first?? Strobes or cameras? I think that the strobes need 3.3v to make them fire if that helps.

Can anyone advise?
12-03-2008, 03:03 PM   #13
Veteran Member
Ben_Edict's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: SouthWest "Regio"
Photos: Albums
Posts: 3,303
QuoteOriginally posted by Noncompusmentis Quote
I started using it with my istDs, using a flash block on the hotshoe with sync cable. Every time I took a photo, I had to remove the flash block and then replace it again otherwise the strobes would not fire on the next shot. I put this down to the little block I was using.

The money was right, so I bought a k20d. Pleased that it had the x sync socket, I thought it would alleviate the single flash problem. It did for about 20 shots, where I could fire off shot after shot as long as the strobes had recharged.

But then it started doing the same thing. Every shot, I had to remove the cable and re connect it other wise the strobes wouldn't fire.

I don't know where to start first?? Strobes or cameras? I think that the strobes need 3.3v to make them fire if that helps.
It is probably the same problem that has been reported with the White Lightning strobes. Sorry, no real explanation for that. I use Interfit strobes (the old White kine and the new 600W/s modells) myself and don't have that problem. I also used to have this connector "block" for my K10, but it worked quite as nicely as the pc-socket on my K20... I wonder, whether the trigger voltage is so low, that the camera "loses" the flash connection - but I am not an electronics buff, so really don't know.

Ben
02-27-2009, 08:43 AM   #14
Veteran Member
code4code5's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Denver, CO
Photos: Gallery
Posts: 438
I'm glad I found this post as I'm having the same problem with my Interfit 150 mk II strobes. One shot is all I get, then I have to power down the strobe that the camera is connected to. I thought it might have been some idosecrency with using an M lens, but switched to a DA lens and it didn't make a difference. I would sure like to hear if anyone has figured this out yet.
02-27-2009, 09:54 AM   #15
Veteran Member
Ben_Edict's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: SouthWest "Regio"
Photos: Albums
Posts: 3,303
QuoteOriginally posted by code4code5 Quote
I'm glad I found this post as I'm having the same problem with my Interfit 150 mk II strobes. One shot is all I get, then I have to power down the strobe that the camera is connected to. I thought it might have been some idosecrency with using an M lens, but switched to a DA lens and it didn't make a difference. I would sure like to hear if anyone has figured this out yet.
The only explanation that comes to my mind is, that the pc connectors on the camera side is loose. You know, these tiny plugs are really not the last word connection-wise and often do not have a tight fit.

Another possible explanation lies completely with the flashes: The flash is triggered when the flash's sync voltage is connected to Ground. May be, if that happens, a capacitor gets loaded, which prevents another short soon after that?

One possible remedy would be to use a wireless trigger (radio trigger or IR). At least you could try, if that remedies the problem, without additional cost: Just use the camera's internal flash and let the Interfit's fire as slaves. If that is possible continously, an external, wireless trigger should also work.

Ben
Reply

Bookmarks
  • Submit Thread to Facebook Facebook
  • Submit Thread to Twitter Twitter
  • Submit Thread to Digg Digg
Tags - Make this thread easier to find by adding keywords to it!
camera, dslr, k20, mode, photography, strobes, studio strobes, sync
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Studio Strobes or Small Flashes? brofkand Flashes, Lighting, and Studio 40 05-09-2010 02:48 AM
Studio strobes - 1st try kenemore Post Your Photos! 4 08-04-2009 11:37 PM
Possible DIY portable Power Supply for Studio Strobes - ADVICE NEEDED MRRiley General Talk 4 09-11-2008 05:40 PM
My first K20 studio shoot... davemdsn Post Your Photos! 11 03-03-2008 07:12 PM
Studio Flash Sync Speed for K10D fwbigd Pentax DSLR Discussion 3 01-01-2008 12:42 PM



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:34 PM. | See also: NikonForums.com, CanonForums.com part of our network of photo forums!
  • Red (Default)
  • Green
  • Gray
  • Dark
  • Dark Yellow
  • Dark Blue
  • Old Red
  • Old Green
  • Old Gray
  • Dial-Up Style
Hello! It's great to see you back on the forum! Have you considered joining the community?
register
Creating a FREE ACCOUNT takes under a minute, removes ads, and lets you post! [Dismiss]
Top