[Lucky Dog]

I'm curious if there are any motion activated triggers available out there that will connect to a Pentax DSLR?

I've been thinking about making a camera trap for wild game. The game cameras on the market take terrible photo's.

---------- Post added 02-20-21 at 05:37 AM ----------

A quick google search provide a few quick options.
So I'll change the question a bit and ask if anyone has any experience or recommendations they would like to share on setting up a remote camera trap?

[Lowell Goudge]

You can rig any trigger to the cabled shutter release.

If you look at the remote shutter cable, the center pin and outer sleeve simply need to be shorted to trip the shutter. You would need to prefocus, obviously but any infra red beam system with a dry contact output would work. Not sure solid state (transistor) outputs would work however, but if you try I suggest the outer sleeve be negative / emitter on the transistor.

I have often considered remote radio trigger using an FRS radio and an output contact that could be closed when the call button is pressed.

I think it would be a diy project

[AstroDave]

Google is (sorta) your friend. Search on "camera triggers" to get

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/camera-trigger-systems/ci/27982/N/3777857...981&

or

Pluto Trigger - A versatile smart camera remote

I'm sure there are more. These appear to trigger in various ways. Note that some of these may not offer specific triggering for Pentax, but that anything that will trigger a canon Rebel series should also work on most Pentaxes (except, perhaps, the KP, which I think uses a slightly different plug).

I can even envision how I might build one that is basically a sonic radar, out of cheap parts I already have on hand.

[Roadboat24]

Miops smart trigger, with canon 2.5mm sub-mini cable, works on K1, K3, K50. as well.

[Garry Conway]

Hi Lucy dog
Glad you asked the question as I've been looking in to this as well and for me AstroDave's post about Pluto looks like it would do what I need. Hope you find a solution and get some great photos.

[AlwaysAl]

Miops smart trigger, with canon 2.5mm sub-mini cable, works on K1, K3, K50. as well.

Also works with the K5IIs. MIOPS unit is adaptable to trigger for noise, light and broken beam (I use a scope sighting laser) Al

[Bob 256]

One issue with a motion trigger and regular DSLR cameras is that the camera needs to be left in the ON status which pulls from its battery. The length of time you can use the camera for motion detecting will therefore be limited unless the camera is connected to an alternate supply which can provide continuous power (not too suitable for a remote or game camera). The camera can't be shut down completely because the remote shutter release can't wake it up to take a photo.

On the other hand, assuming that isn't an issue for you, you might explore some of the microwave or passive infrared detectors which are available and if you're handy with electronics, it's easy to use one of these and the remote release to trip the shutter. They will detect smaller objects (not too small) and work pretty well under most circumstances, taking very little power on their own. The microwave detector will work around corners if a reflecting surface is used and can work through a wood door. Pretty neat devices.

PIR Motion Detector for Arduino HC-SR501 | MPJA.COM

PIR Motion Detector Mini Module for Arduino | MPJA.COM

Microwave / Radar Motion Sensor Module, 5V HFS-DC06H | MPJA.COM

I would advise using either of these with a small relay connected to the electronic cable release so there is isolation from the camera electronics (just in case).

[stevebrot]

One issue with a motion trigger and regular DSLR cameras is that the camera needs to be left in the ON status which pulls from its battery.

As you note, the traditional solution is an external power supply, either AC or high capacity battery. In regards to the power status, the camera will wake on half-press (button or wired remote) as long as the power switch is in the "on" position.* This is true even with "Auto Off" enabled, so there is no need to disable it. The battery will still be drawn down, but at a rate much lower than if it were in standby or snooze modes.


Steve

* Just checked with my K-3 (set to snooze at 30s and auto-off at 3m) and wired intervalometer set to 30 minute interval.

[Ex Finn.]

Google is (sorta) your friend. Search on "camera triggers" to get

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/camera-trigger-systems/ci/27982/N/3777857...981&

or

Pluto Trigger - A versatile smart camera remote

I'm sure there are more. These appear to trigger in various ways. Note that some of these may not offer specific triggering for Pentax, but that anything that will trigger a canon Rebel series should also work on most Pentaxes (except, perhaps, the KP, which I think uses a slightly different plug).

I can even envision how I might build one that is basically a sonic radar, out of cheap parts I already have on hand.

Yes, KP went to 3.5mm.

[John in OZ]

Hahnel make some pretty nifty trigger systems too. I use the Captur series for Canon which work well with Pentax. Only need to run shutter speed at 1/100 S for flash sync if using flash. The focus pin on 3.5mm plug can wake up the camera even if focus is set to manual. They are radio wireless and good for some 100m. The Modul-Pro has an IR beam which can span some 15m.

[Lochaber]

Hi

Have a look at this, it may inerest you.



www.doc-diy.net :: SmaTrig 2.1 - The improved smart 15-in-1 trigger for DSLRs

The features are:

• variable interval/strobo functions
• sound and light trigger (rising or falling edge detection)
• integrated photo-diode
• lightning trigger (low shutter lag)
• IR remote control (many camera brands supported)
• high-speed mode with camera control via IR
• direct microphone support
• slave flash trigger with pre-flash suppression (TTL)
• long exposure (1s - 8h)
• configuration using EEPROM
• 3 bulb mode bracketing functions with 3 to 9 shots and an EV step of 1 to 4 for HDR (DRI)
• all functions of HDR-Jack are included
• quartz-controlled clock
• integrated buzzer for acoustic feedback
• low-power design
• only budget parts with good availability used

The new features of version 2.1 are

• direct support of laser pointer for light barrier function
• additional IR signal for wireless triggering for many functions
• battery holder allows to change battery without soldering
• new PCB design for easier and more exact assembly
• better alignment of programming pads on PCB
• more consistent function alignment on dial
• clean up of config function

[robgski]

I own a Pluto Trigger, and I've used it with my K-1, but not extensively. I am happy with it, very easy to set up, and offers motion, light sound, and several other triggers and features.

[riseform]

Camera trapping is a blast and I wish it would come up more often on this forum.

I've been doing it for a couple years now and it is very addicting. It's taught me a lot about flash photography, scene planning and composition. Finding out what you've caught while away can be like Christmas morning for a child. The biggest downside is you're at risk for having your system stolen when you're away.

I see you purchased the Pluto and I believe I answered the relevant question in that thread. I have the Pluto, but never use it for camera trapping. I mainly bought it for the lightning sensor, but have yet to be in the right place at the right time to capture lightning with it.

If you get serious, it'll require some cash outflow as you'll need to buy or build a camera housing, sensor, flashes, remote triggers and receivers and mounts. There are a lot of DIY options for the sensor, housings and mounts. Cameratrapper.com forum doesn't get a lot of action but has good information. Also look at the "how to" sections and videos on the websites for Camtraptions and Cognysis.

My go to overnight sensor/trigger is the Cognysis Sabre, which provides control over every option imaginable and is probably the best sensor out there. It's pricey and has an internal battery that wouldn't last long enough for a prolonged set up. I like it because I can measure my beam distance, set the number of shots, time between shots and adjust the shutter press duration allowing it to awaken Pentax cameras and appropriately fire the flashes on the first detection of motion. Other sensors may only awaken the sleeping camera with the first detection and may not fire until the second.

Congysis also has a "cheaper" RangeIR sensor which works very well and would last longer in the field. It triggers a single shot and isn't waterproof.

The Camtraptions PIR v3 is the wireless and waterproof sensor I use for setups that are out for a week or two. It's a bit tricky to learn, but works well.

The popular flash for camera trapping is the old (purchased used) Nikon SB28 as it is relatively cheap (going up due to camera trapping demand however) and awakens and fires very rapidly. I use Camtraptions wireless triggers and receivers for all my remote flashes. There was a rumor that Camtraptions is going to make a similar flash, but I have yet to see it.

Here's a link to some of what I've captured over the last couple years. Most are at a watering hole I created to camera trap nocturnal visitors when the weather is warm. At the opposite end of my watering hole is a wooden platform where my camera sits beneath an upside down rubbermaid tub with a hole in the side to shoot through. I've added sound dampening foam to the inside of the tub to deaden the sound of the camera as it's awakened or shooting (this would be a good situation for mirrorless). I have the off camera flashes in modified clear tupperware containers mounted on poles. Everything is painted with DIY camo colors.

Camera trap | Flickr

[Lucky Dog]

Thanks for some great information.

I thought the Pluto trigger might be my quick cheap way into camera trapping, but it was not to be.
Now I have some more "studying" to do.

Camera trapping is a blast and I wish it would come up more often on this forum.

I've been doing it for a couple years now and it is very addicting. It's taught me a lot about flash photography, scene planning and composition. Finding out what you've caught while away can be like Christmas morning for a child. The biggest downside is you're at risk for having your system stolen when you're away.

I see you purchased the Pluto and I believe I answered the relevant question in that thread. I have the Pluto, but never use it for camera trapping. I mainly bought it for the lightning sensor, but have yet to be in the right place at the right time to capture lightning with it.

If you get serious, it'll require some cash outflow as you'll need to buy or build a camera housing, sensor, flashes, remote triggers and receivers and mounts. There are a lot of DIY options for the sensor, housings and mounts. Cameratrapper.com forum doesn't get a lot of action but has good information. Also look at the "how to" sections and videos on the websites for Camtraptions and Cognysis.

My go to overnight sensor/trigger is the Cognysis Sabre, which provides control over every option imaginable and is probably the best sensor out there. It's pricey and has an internal battery that wouldn't last long enough for a prolonged set up. I like it because I can measure my beam distance, set the number of shots, time between shots and adjust the shutter press duration allowing it to awaken Pentax cameras and appropriately fire the flashes on the first detection of motion. Other sensors may only awaken the sleeping camera with the first detection and may not fire until the second.

Congysis also has a "cheaper" RangeIR sensor which works very well and would last longer in the field. It triggers a single shot and isn't waterproof.

The Camtraptions PIR v3 is the wireless and waterproof sensor I use for setups that are out for a week or two. It's a bit tricky to learn, but works well.

The popular flash for camera trapping is the old (purchased used) Nikon SB28 as it is relatively cheap (going up due to camera trapping demand however) and awakens and fires very rapidly. I use Camtraptions wireless triggers and receivers for all my remote flashes. There was a rumor that Camtraptions is going to make a similar flash, but I have yet to see it.

Here's a link to some of what I've captured over the last couple years. Most are at a watering hole I created to camera trap nocturnal visitors when the weather is warm. At the opposite end of my watering hole is a wooden platform where my camera sits beneath an upside down rubbermaid tub with a hole in the side to shoot through. I've added sound dampening foam to the inside of the tub to deaden the sound of the camera as it's awakened or shooting (this would be a good situation for mirrorless). I have the off camera flashes in modified clear tupperware containers mounted on poles. Everything is painted with DIY camo colors.

Camera trap | Flickr

[John in OZ]

Camera trapping is a blast and I wish it would come up more often on this forum.

I've been doing it for a couple years now and it is very addicting. It's taught me a lot about flash photography, scene planning and composition. Finding out what you've caught while away can be like Christmas morning for a child. The biggest downside is you're at risk for having your system stolen when you're away.

I see you purchased the Pluto and I believe I answered the relevant question in that thread. I have the Pluto, but never use it for camera trapping. I mainly bought it for the lightning sensor, but have yet to be in the right place at the right time to capture lightning with it.

If you get serious, it'll require some cash outflow as you'll need to buy or build a camera housing, sensor, flashes, remote triggers and receivers and mounts. There are a lot of DIY options for the sensor, housings and mounts. Cameratrapper.com forum doesn't get a lot of action but has good information. Also look at the "how to" sections and videos on the websites for Camtraptions and Cognysis.

My go to overnight sensor/trigger is the Cognysis Sabre, which provides control over every option imaginable and is probably the best sensor out there. It's pricey and has an internal battery that wouldn't last long enough for a prolonged set up. I like it because I can measure my beam distance, set the number of shots, time between shots and adjust the shutter press duration allowing it to awaken Pentax cameras and appropriately fire the flashes on the first detection of motion. Other sensors may only awaken the sleeping camera with the first detection and may not fire until the second.

Congysis also has a "cheaper" RangeIR sensor which works very well and would last longer in the field. It triggers a single shot and isn't waterproof.

The Camtraptions PIR v3 is the wireless and waterproof sensor I use for setups that are out for a week or two. It's a bit tricky to learn, but works well.

The popular flash for camera trapping is the old (purchased used) Nikon SB28 as it is relatively cheap (going up due to camera trapping demand however) and awakens and fires very rapidly. I use Camtraptions wireless triggers and receivers for all my remote flashes. There was a rumor that Camtraptions is going to make a similar flash, but I have yet to see it.

Here's a link to some of what I've captured over the last couple years. Most are at a watering hole I created to camera trap nocturnal visitors when the weather is warm. At the opposite end of my watering hole is a wooden platform where my camera sits beneath an upside down rubbermaid tub with a hole in the side to shoot through. I've added sound dampening foam to the inside of the tub to deaden the sound of the camera as it's awakened or shooting (this would be a good situation for mirrorless). I have the off camera flashes in modified clear tupperware containers mounted on poles. Everything is painted with DIY camo colors.

Camera trap | Flickr

I'm impressed with your solution and results. Thanks for sharing. Shall try similar soon enough.