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11-21-2008, 09:35 PM   #16
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I will love to get both but money is an issue right now. I am living it to the best of luck. If I manage to sell the camera before mid December I will get both if not I will only get the lense. To be honest i even had the thought of changing to another brand because of the focusing issue but today I tried a friends nikon D80 focusing was much much faster, but I couldn't imaging me using that camera, it felt really fragile compare to my K10D. I guess the D90 must be similar. If I do jump to another brand will be the D300, but I dont really need to spend that amount of money on camera I will be just using for a hobby. So the K20D with the 50-135mm seems to be the best for the money.

11-22-2008, 01:42 AM   #17
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Get the DA*. Here in Australia all gear is going up 10 to 20% due to the very high YEN against the USD. And very low AUD to everything! The DA* will hold it's value more than the K20D.. So once all current local gear supplies are sold.. Photogs are in for a shock! I am so glad I got my DA*s before the CRASH...

Last edited by Adrian Owerko; 11-22-2008 at 02:11 AM.
11-24-2008, 02:07 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by malabito Quote
I have the pentax 18-250mm, the kit lens, and the pentax 1.4 50mm, the last one is actually really a pain to focus under low light situations which kills the fun of having a fast lens, the 18-250 is much much faster. I also did the debug tweak on these lenses and manage to reach an equilibrium on both.
How do you do the debug tweak ?

I have the version 1.30 firmware
11-24-2008, 10:15 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tigerman 1980 Quote
How do you do the debug tweak ?
Note this has nothing to do with speed of AF - it refers to an adjustment you can make if a controlled focus test shows that your camera is consistently exhibiting backfocus or frontfocus. Meaning, in a controlled test - using a focus test chart, not just pointing at something and expecting the camera to focus on the thing you want it to focus on), the pictures you take at large apertures shows the actual in-focus area to be either behind or in front of the actual test target provided by the test chart. If your camera has such a problem, there is an undocumented way to tweak the camera to adjust for this. See the current thread in this very forum on "firmware 1/3 debug mode unleashed" for some information (not sure if it contains complete instructions or not, but it should at least provide pointers to more info).

But again, none of this has anything to do with focus speed. If you don't have a problem with front- or backfocus - and most people don't - you don't need to worry about these tweaks.

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