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05-05-2021, 12:29 PM - 1 Like   #16
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The simple answer is that the lens that is on the camera is the one that is used for picture taking. Most of us that have several lenses within the same range of focal lengths have our favorites. Those are the ones that end up in the bag. If it were me, all three would be in my bag with the 16-85mm spending more time on the camera...UNLESS I really needed the strengths of either of the other two.

In my bag right now...

Sigma 17-70/2.8-4.0 (on camera)
Pentax-FA 77/1.8 Limited
Pentax-FA 35/2.0
Pentax-A 70-210/4.0

On the shelf, but available to use...don't want to go there.


Steve

05-05-2021, 10:25 PM   #17
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You got a nice outfit. It covers everything most people need for family pictures. A fortunate acquisition.
05-06-2021, 12:09 AM   #18
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The DA 16-85mm is a very well-featured lens of very good build quality, including WR construction, and it has both HD coatings and a special coating for its own anti-smudge protection which also makes the lens easier to clean. As to UV protection filters, as others have said those can possibly cause degradation of quality under some lighting conditions, but there are some use circumstances which suggest taking precautions for extra protection of the lens's front element and filter threads, even against high winds and blowing sand. So owning these can be of use, depending, I sometimes use protective filters, but have found it also important to use one than has extensive coatings against flair, etc. just like a high-quality lens has, along with excellent light transmission properties. This will eliminate or very much minimize any negative effects.
05-14-2021, 11:49 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by aslyfox Quote
if you don't own it, you might consider this ebook



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Thank you! Great reference!

---------- Post added 05-14-21 at 12:49 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by pentaxus Quote
You got a nice outfit. It covers everything most people need for family pictures. A fortunate acquisition.
Thank you!

---------- Post added 05-14-21 at 12:50 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
The simple answer is that the lens that is on the camera is the one that is used for picture taking. Most of us that have several lenses within the same range of focal lengths have our favorites. Those are the ones that end up in the bag. If it were me, all three would be in my bag with the 16-85mm spending more time on the camera...UNLESS I really needed the strengths of either of the other two.

In my bag right now...

Sigma 17-70/2.8-4.0 (on camera)
Pentax-FA 77/1.8 Limited
Pentax-FA 35/2.0
Pentax-A 70-210/4.0

On the shelf, but available to use...don't want to go there.


Steve
I've got all 3 in my bag, and I used all 3 over the past week.

06-03-2021, 10:34 AM   #20
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I am receiving my K-5 in the mail today according to some research here and recommendations you all provided to another photographer around here.

I'm going to move my WR DA 16-85mm ED DC WR lens on there and leave the other 2 lenses for my K-x.

I have the next questions, along the same topic:
1. What Prime Lens is worth getting for my K-5 and do they make any WR of the same? Am I duplicating efforts considering what I have that I'm moving over to my K-5? One of the things I've noticed is that the lens gets in the way of the flash close in.
2. I think I'm going to want a wet-weather hood to protect the lens, what recommendation/s do you all have for this?
3. (Since I'm asking questions here already), I've noticed they have a Power Grip D-BG8, which expands m Power Supply options
4. (Again, since I'm asking questions here already) , has anyone had any good experience with spare D-Lion batteries, and should I go wth Wasabi Power, or Pentax Proprietary batteries, or some other choice, and then there's the Charger options, and sometimes everything nicely and neatly packaged.

Thank you all again!

<Edited to correct my typos>

Last edited by AdkMtnGuy; 06-03-2021 at 07:13 PM.
06-03-2021, 02:23 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by AdkMtnGuy Quote
I am receiving my K-5 in the mail today according to some research here and recommendations you all provided to another photographer around here.

I'm going to move my WR DA 16-55mm lens on there and leave the other 2 lenses for my K-x.

Not trying to be a pain but there is no such lens. Do you have the 16-85 or the 18-55? I think several people assumed you have the 16-85 which is a nicer lens but the 18-55 is still a good lens.

QuoteOriginally posted by AdkMtnGuy Quote
I have the next questions, along the same topic:
1. What Prime Lens is worth getting for my K-5 and do they make any WR of the same? Am I duplicating efforts considering what I have that I'm moving over to my K-5? One of the things I've noticed is that the lens gets in the way of the flash close in.
Built in flash may have issues with the hood and the width. This varies based on the lens. The DA* 55, the DFA* 50 f1.4, DFA* 85 f1.4, DA* 200, and DA* 300 are all WR (or better AW) primes. The DA* 560 was recently discontinued. The DA 20-40 is not a prime but it is a nice short zoom with WR features.

QuoteOriginally posted by AdkMtnGuy Quote
2. I think I'm going to want a wet-weather hood to protect the lens, what recommendation/s do you all have for this?
I've never heard of that. I just use them as is if they are WR. Honestly having been in poor weather when it is pouring rain the images tend to be pretty bad. Mist and spray is more of a problem and a good clear filter may help keep the lens clean in these cases. I normally don't recommend filters but when environmental hazards are in play they make sense sometimes.

QuoteOriginally posted by AdkMtnGuy Quote
3. (Since I'm asking questions here already), I've noticed they have a Power Grip D-BG8, which expands m Power Supply options
I don't think that's the right grip for the K-5. The D-BG4 is the unit that works on the K-5.

QuoteOriginally posted by AdkMtnGuy Quote
4. (Again, since I'm asking questions here already) , has anyone had any good experience with spare D-Lion batteries, and should I go wth Wasabi Power, or Pentax Proprietary batteries, or some other choice, and then there's the Charger options, and sometimes everything nicely and neatly packaged.

Thank you all again!
Your Mileage may vary...

My own experience has been that Wasabi worked for me but I suspect they are all just using whatever cell they can find cheaply and it is luck of the draw. The original equipment replacement from Pentax will likely be higher quality - you have to decide if that matters. Charger - get the correct one from Pentax - I have different ones some are 3rd party and all seem to work but many lack the 3rd pin for temp sensing the battery.
06-03-2021, 04:00 PM   #22
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The K-5 is in a whole different class than the Kx. It is of the flagship class, much better controls and a professional-level build quality for durability, with "WR" weather-resistant (not weather-proof or for under water photography) construction in case of some light rain occurring while shooting. Note that a WR camera is not WR active unless it has a WR lens attached, such as your DA 16-85mm HD DC WR lens. Also, with Canon or Nikon, in order to get a WR camera body you'd be shopping in the $1,000 + range (new camera price), and the same price for a new WR lens. If you do not have the owners manual for the K-5, it is very important to get one. It can be downloaded free from the Ricoh/Pentax USA website customer support. Hopefully, your used copy of the K-5 is in fine condition with moderate usage.

---------- Post added 06-03-21 at 04:14 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by AdkMtnGuy Quote
I like a Filter to protect the lens from dust, dirt, grime, oil, fingerprints, etc. I used to run a Skylight Filter on each of the lenses, but I have learned better than that and I recently came up against an issue with taking shots in crowds of an event having too long of a shutter opening and blurry images because it was taking too long to take the shot with the wide angle lens (admittedly not the lens to use anyway, but I just got the 50mm in today and started playing with it) and I have a bunch of ruined shots because of varying light levels at that venue.
The shutter taking "too long" for the shot and getting resultant blurry pictures had nothing to do with using a skylight filter, because that filter does not reduce incoming light. If using a polarizing filter, that can significantly reduce incoming light, so not good for low light hand held or with moving subjects in low light. What happened in your case most likely is your camera's shutter speed dropped too low in order to deal with a dimmer light circumstance, so with a slower shutter speed, the motion of the people as well as the natural small motion of your own body for hand-held shooting would create blur. In order to compensate for those motions to get clarity in your picture, you would need to increase the shutter speed enough to freeze those motions. To get the higher shutter speed without darkening your exposure, you would need to set a larger lens aperture (smaller number) and/or increase the ISO sensitivity setting. Your 50mm f/1.8 lens easily has the largest available aperture, making it the best for low light and faster action shooting. It can provide 4 x the shutter speed of your DA 16-85mm lens set at 50mm and its widest aperture setting, under the same lighting and same ISO. But as you say, you are stuck at 50mm only- no zoom. However, with your DA 16-85mm lens it is still possible to use it under those conditions, as long as the lighting was not all that low, and the activity not all that fast, by increasing ISO adequately. The K-5 is quite good at performing well at higher ISO levels. You can get very decent results, even as high as ISO 3200.


Last edited by mikesbike; 06-03-2021 at 04:23 PM.
06-03-2021, 07:06 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Not trying to be a pain but there is no such lens. Do you have the 16-85 or the 18-55? I think several people assumed you have the 16-85 which is a nicer lens but the 18-55 is still a good lens.
My apologies, I have the 16-85, I mis-typed. I don't consider someone a pain when being accurate and right, no worries.


QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Built in flash may have issues with the hood and the width. This varies based on the lens. The DA* 55, the DFA* 50 f1.4, DFA* 85 f1.4, DA* 200, and DA* 300 are all WR (or better AW) primes. The DA* 560 was recently discontinued. The DA 20-40 is not a prime but it is a nice short zoom with WR features.
Thank you, I'll have to keep an eye out as budget allows, I think my 18-85 ought to do it, I'll just have to know I can't always use the flash, but I'll be testing it over the next few days.


QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
I've never heard of that. I just use them as is if they are WR. Honestly having been in poor weather when it is pouring rain the images tend to be pretty bad. Mist and spray is more of a problem and a good clear filter may help keep the lens clean in these cases. I normally don't recommend filters but when environmental hazards are in play they make sense sometimes.


QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
I don't think that's the right grip for the K-5. The D-BG4 is the unit that works on the K-5.
THANK YOU! You just saved me from another error from mis-typing in my order creation and then not noticing that was for the K-3.



QuoteOriginally posted by UncleVanya Quote
Your Mileage may vary...

My own experience has been that Wasabi worked for me but I suspect they are all just using whatever cell they can find cheaply and it is luck of the draw. The original equipment replacement from Pentax will likely be higher quality - you have to decide if that matters. Charger - get the correct one from Pentax - I have different ones some are 3rd party and all seem to work but many lack the 3rd pin for temp sensing the battery.
Ah, perfect, this is the hidden little thing that will make ALL the difference.

---------- Post added 06-03-21 at 08:11 PM ----------

QuoteOriginally posted by mikesbike Quote
The K-5 is in a whole different class than the Kx. It is of the flagship class, much better controls and a professional-level build quality for durability, with "WR" weather-resistant (not weather-proof or for under water photography) construction in case of some light rain occurring while shooting. Note that a WR camera is not WR active unless it has a WR lens attached, such as your DA 16-85mm HD DC WR lens. Also, with Canon or Nikon, in order to get a WR camera body you'd be shopping in the $1,000 + range (new camera price), and the same price for a new WR lens. If you do not have the owners manual for the K-5, it is very important to get one. It can be downloaded free from the Ricoh/Pentax USA website customer support. Hopefully, your used copy of the K-5 is in fine condition with moderate usage.
Thank you sir! I just got in-hand in the last hour, and it looks brand new, seems brand new, the battery is charging, and I just downloaded the Owner's Manual before opening this thread. I plan to keep the 18-85mm WR Lens on it



---------- Post added 06-03-21 at 04:14 PM ----------



QuoteOriginally posted by mikesbike Quote
The shutter taking "too long" for the shot and getting resultant blurry pictures had nothing to do with using a skylight filter, because that filter does not reduce incoming light. If using a polarizing filter, that can significantly reduce incoming light, so not good for low light hand held or with moving subjects in low light. What happened in your case most likely is your camera's shutter speed dropped too low in order to deal with a dimmer light circumstance, so with a slower shutter speed, the motion of the people as well as the natural small motion of your own body for hand-held shooting would create blur. In order to compensate for those motions to get clarity in your picture, you would need to increase the shutter speed enough to freeze those motions. To get the higher shutter speed without darkening your exposure, you would need to set a larger lens aperture (smaller number) and/or increase the ISO sensitivity setting. Your 50mm f/1.8 lens easily has the largest available aperture, making it the best for low light and faster action shooting. It can provide 4 x the shutter speed of your DA 16-85mm lens set at 50mm and its widest aperture setting, under the same lighting and same ISO. But as you say, you are stuck at 50mm only- no zoom. However, with your DA 16-85mm lens it is still possible to use it under those conditions, as long as the lighting was not all that low, and the activity not all that fast, by increasing ISO adequately. The K-5 is quite good at performing well at higher ISO levels. You can get very decent results, even as high as ISO 3200.
Ah, this makes sense, it's back tot he Basics of Photography for me, I also have wondered whether I should put the Skylight Filters back on my Lenses to see what happens, but I keep hearing that's pointless with the great White Balance feature of these cameras.
06-04-2021, 01:40 PM   #24
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Skylight filters will have a slight warming effect. But I only use such filters (UV haze, etc.) for protection in general if I might be encountering severe conditions like blowing sand, or something similar. OTOH it depends also on how the equipment is handled. I happened to have a protective filter on a lens years ago where the lens took a bump imaging the out filter threads of the filter instead of the lens. The protection was real. On another occasion, there was no filter and the filter threads of the lens were damaged. However, only the best quality filters will do, that is multi- or super multi coated, to minimize degradation imposed by adding the filter. Then there may be times where there is too much bluish effect on overcast days or reflections from greenery where the warming effect from the filter will provide an advantage, or hazy conditions where the UV filter will improve contrast.

There are valid points for and against using protective filters- but if used, should be of the highest quality. And you can always remove the filter for your extra-fussy quality shots, and/or with extra high-level lenses which are handled with great care.
06-04-2021, 03:07 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by mikesbike Quote
Skylight filters will have a slight warming effect. But I only use such filters (UV haze, etc.) for protection in general if I might be encountering severe conditions like blowing sand, or something similar. OTOH it depends also on how the equipment is handled. I happened to have a protective filter on a lens years ago where the lens took a bump imaging the out filter threads of the filter instead of the lens. The protection was real. On another occasion, there was no filter and the filter threads of the lens were damaged. However, only the best quality filters will do, that is multi- or super multi coated, to minimize degradation imposed by adding the filter. Then there may be times where there is too much bluish effect on overcast days or reflections from greenery where the warming effect from the filter will provide an advantage, or hazy conditions where the UV filter will improve contrast.

There are valid points for and against using protective filters- but if used, should be of the highest quality. And you can always remove the filter for your extra-fussy quality shots, and/or with extra high-level lenses which are handled with great care.
Thank you sir!
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