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08-24-2021, 11:27 AM   #1
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Mirror lock-up in timelapse, K-5

I was wondering, is it somehow possible to have mirror lock-up in timelapse? Default this does not seem to be the case, the mirror just flaps each time.
This would be great for astro photography, in which it's essential to have as little camera shake as possible. So I would like to have this when initiating a time lapse:

- flap mirror up
- take pictures
- flap mirror down when done

08-24-2021, 12:21 PM - 1 Like   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by gdt1981 Quote
So I would like to have this when initiating a time lapse:

- flap mirror up
- take pictures
- flap mirror down when done
What you describe is not possible with your camera, though it may be possible to use the camera's regular mirror lock-up feature along with a wired intervalometer to accomplish mirror up to last 1/2 interval time.


Steve
08-24-2021, 01:06 PM - 1 Like   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by gdt1981 Quote
This would be great for astro photography, in which it's essential to have as little camera shake as possible.
I think a lot of folks are overly concerned about this.

What are your typical exposures? Several seconds or more? In that case, the duration of any mirror flap vibration - small fraction of a second* - is going to have minimal effect on the resultant image. Of course, if your tripod/support itself is a bit shaky, then the resultant vibrations to the whole support system can last a while.

I agree, however, it would be nice to just tell the camera to lock up the mirror and hold it there until told otherwise.

* conventional wisdom seems to be that it is exposures of around 1/100 sec for which mirror slap can be most detrimental.
08-25-2021, 08:10 PM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by AstroDave Quote
I think a lot of folks are overly concerned about this.
Yep...a 2s delay on a 30s exposure should be quite adequate, almost as if the mirror was not there. Wind is a bigger demon.


Steve


Last edited by stevebrot; 08-25-2021 at 08:26 PM.
08-26-2021, 08:49 AM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by gdt1981 Quote
- flap mirror up
- take pictures
- flap mirror down when done
So the KP will do this exact thing in Electronic Shutter + L/M/H continuous shooting.
Interestingly enough, the K-1 and K-1ii won't operate this way (they can't activate the electronic shutter in continuous shooting mode).

Older APS-c family models don't have Electronic Shutter modes, and thus can't do this. I've checked a K-70, K-3, the K-5 family, and the K-50 family.

Personally, this is why I pick the KP for astrophotography timelapses and star trails, even over having a 2nd FF body. Shoot stills on FF, shoot timelapses on the KP.
08-26-2021, 09:52 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by disasterfilm Quote
So the KP will do this exact thing in Electronic Shutter + L/M/H continuous shooting.
That is not useful for doing interval work.

QuoteOriginally posted by disasterfilm Quote
Older APS-c family models don't have Electronic Shutter modes, and thus can't do this. I've checked a K-70, K-3, the K-5 family, and the K-50 family.
They don't have electronic shutter option, but that does not mean the mirror cycles when in live mode. I never does with my K-3 and that behavior probably carrys over to the K-3II and K-1/K-1II. Except for battery draw and heat issues, interval shooting in live mode on those cameras will meet the OP's use case. Unfortunately, I don't believe the same is true for the K-5.


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08-27-2021, 11:10 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by stevebrot Quote
That is not useful for doing interval work.They don't have electronic shutter option, but that does not mean the mirror cycles when in live mode. I never does with my K-3 and that behavior probably carrys over to the K-3II and K-1/K-1II. Except for battery draw and heat issues, interval shooting in live mode on those cameras will meet the OP's use case. Unfortunately, I don't believe the same is true for the K-5.

Steve
Oh geez Steve, you're exactly right. I was thinking about the actual shutter going up and down between frames in LV, not the mirror itself. GDT1981 was definitely asking about the mirror.

How silly of me to have gotten the wrong distinction between moving parts.

My guidance to gdt1981, if he wants to run timelapse with the mirror fully up all the time with a K-5, is to use an external intervalometer. I'd argue that's much better for timelapses anyway, and only a $20 improvement investment at that. Plus as long as he's shooting in Live View, the mirror will stay up the whole time.

Steve - this is definitely off-topic now, but can I persuade you to reconsider the usefulness of continuous electronic shooting for astro timelapses (what gdt1981 started this about)? In static light conditions such as these, where exposure levels don't change at all, I've found it's best to run these in continuous drive mode and have the shutter button locked down on the external remote. Doing it this way with electronic shutter shortens the fraction of a gap between sequential frames, reduces potential wear on the shutter itself, and eliminates all form of shutter-induced movement in the camera. Maybe in wide field situations it's negligible, but with telephoto lenses and the exaggeration of camera movement when replaying timelapse footage you can tell a difference between electronic shutter and manual shutter sequences.

08-27-2021, 06:08 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by disasterfilm Quote
Steve - this is definitely off-topic now, but can I persuade you to reconsider the usefulness of continuous electronic shooting for astro timelapses
I don't have a camera that supports that feature, so I can't have a try with it. If you find it helpful, good enough!


Steve
08-28-2021, 11:27 AM   #9
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Thanks

Thanks all for replying! Indeed, altough using Live view could be an option indeed but it's quickly heating the sensor up - not what you want for astro stuff - I think the only way would be using an external intervalometer and camera in live view. The K-5 has an options with mirror lock-up + remote but that flaps the mirror down again after one release. So unfortunately no real option for the K-5.

I agree that the impact is little on long exposures, however I do not have an equatorial mount so I have to stack shorter images, like 1 or 2 second ones. With those relatively 'short' exposures I do think the mirror flap does have its impact, also because I do not have a very heavy sturdy tripd.

Now when I'm thinking of this, I see that the AstroTracer functionality (available on K-5 with the O-GPS1 unit, or built-in when upgrading to a K-3 II or K-1) does give the possibility to do longer exposures without an equiatorial mount.
But, I was wondering, can astrotracer also work with non-A-zoomlenses? For instance I have a Tamron Adaptall 2 70-210 (this one Tamron Adaptall-2 70-210mm f/3.8-4 (46A) Lens Reviews - Tamron Adaptall Lenses - Pentax Lens Review Database), and with that mounted and in M mode, I can enter the focal length on camera startup. But I only know the precise actual focal length when fully zoomed out or in (70mm or 210mm). When I want to use something in between, like 150mm, I dont exactly know where that is, aside from the markings on the lens. The camera doesn't know that right? With those old lenses?. I could enter 150mm on camera startup and then zoom in about halfway, but what would be the result? I dont think astrotracer will be able to render round stars..

What do you guys think, is investing in an O-GPS1 (or possibly lookging for a good deal for upgrading my K-5 to a K-3 II) worth it when not using modern expensive (prime tele) lenses?
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