K200D with old lenses

traper99 · 12-02-2008, 01:15 PM

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I've heard that some older Pentax mount but non Pentax lenses (specifically the Vivitar Series 1 zooms) won't fit properly on a K200D body. Has anyone had any experience with this?

**Lowell Goudge** · 12-02-2008, 01:35 PM

it is a simple question of the shield around the apature activating lever being too big.

Check the lens database or do a search, there should be a couple of threads on the modifications needed.

traper99 · 12-02-2008, 01:41 PM

Thanks! I'll do that. I don't want to throw away the Vivitar; it's old, yeah, but a great piece of glass.

slomojoe · 12-02-2008, 01:47 PM

I had a Series1 70-210 which was fine with my Ds and 100D (and I would assume would be also fine with a 200D). The only problem I encountered with an older lens was with a Vivitar 28-85 Macro, which has an extended mount "ridge" that prevented it from being mounted on my dSLRs. I don't think any S1 lense had that, though. I read somewhere that it can be filed away, but I never tried (sold my lens with an ME super).

Then there is of course the issue of the extra pin in the Ricoh mount (aka KR, K-R, K/R), which actually gets stuck inside the camera mount. That is dangerous, but easy to detect, see: here . I don't think Series 1 lenses ever had this either, but this one you definitely want to check before trying.

**Lowell Goudge** · 12-02-2008, 02:16 PM

Originally posted by slomojoe

The only problem I encountered with an older lens was with a Vivitar 28-85 Macro, which has an extended mount "ridge" that prevented it from being mounted on my dSLRs. I don't think any S1 lense had that, though. I read somewhere that it can be filed away, but I never tried (sold my lens with an ME super).

Never "file" the ridge away on the lens.

dismount the collar from the lens (3 small screws) then file the collar far far away from the lens. Or cut it with a hacksaw, and then re-mount the collar.

Note, also paint it black where it was cut to stop reflections (again far far away from the lens)

Takes about 10 minutes per lens.

tybeck · 01-16-2009, 09:20 AM

I just got a Vivitar 120-600mm only to find that it has the very problem you speak of with my K10D. It looks like you either have to shave down the extra ridge or only use it with a teleconverter. I don't have an older camera to compare it to, but it looks like the electrical contacts for the newer on-lens focusing (non-screw drive) is blocking the way. Put some picts below.

I have until after the weekend to return the lens, so I need to decide if it's a keeper or not. If I modify the the lens was suggested here (edit: even more detail here) I can't return it. Decisions, decisions.

"Normal" K-Mount (older Vivitar 28-85mm)

Vivitar 120-600mm (note is even marked "P/K")

tigershoot · 01-16-2009, 02:07 PM

I have the 28-200mm Vivitar Zoom from 1988. Built like a tank. First day of getting my K20D (my first DSLR) and I found I could not twist the lens to mount. I will try some surgery and see what happens.

shutterpuppy · 01-17-2009, 08:25 AM

Originally posted by tigershoot

I have the 28-200mm Vivitar Zoom from 1988. Built like a tank. First day of getting my K20D (my first DSLR) and I found I could not twist the lens to mount. I will try some surgery and see what happens.

I bought an old Vivitar ( Non Series One) 70-210mm for my k200d and it worked great although I forgot one thing..THAT SUCKER WAS HEAVIER THAN I REMEMBER FROM THE 70s!! I must be getting old

I resold it and got my Sigma with an extra 100mm and it seemed like a feather in comparison + I get auto focus ability.

Barry

tybeck · 01-18-2009, 06:14 PM

Did the "surgery" on my lens and it works wonderfully not. A few tips if you try this. 1) Work small screws carefully as not to strip the head 2) Shorter is better than longer for the raised fin, take a few mm off of what you think is the right length. 3) A Drummel tools with a grinding wheel is much easier that a file or a hack saw. Now I just need to wait for the birds to come through in the spring and we'll see what this little converted puppy can do.

Sodbuster · 01-20-2009, 06:22 PM

I see four very very tiny phillips screws on my Vivitar 70-210 macro. Are those the right screws? I don't want to take something apart that I don't need to on this.

Stratman · 01-20-2009, 06:52 PM

Search Hinmans posts, he has fixed a few lenses like this with either a dremel, or just by completely removing the protruding flange.

Quicksand · 01-21-2009, 04:48 PM

Originally posted by Stratman

Search Hinmans posts, he has fixed a few lenses like this with either a dremel, or just by completely removing the protruding flange.

Yeah, on one old lens I have, I was able to unscrew that flange entirely and just leave it off. It doesn't seem to make any difference, other than leaving the aperture lever essentially "naked" and unprotected now. But of course I keep a rear cap on the lens when it's not on the camera, so that's no big deal for me.

**Lowell Goudge** · 01-21-2009, 04:58 PM

Originally posted by Quicksand

Yeah, on one old lens I have, I was able to unscrew that flange entirely and just leave it off. It doesn't seem to make any difference, other than leaving the aperture lever essentially "naked" and unprotected now. But of course I keep a rear cap on the lens when it's not on the camera, so that's no big deal for me.

it might cause some funny reflections due to stray light, that is why it is there, and why I advised painting it black when cut to cover the silver shiny surface

12-02-2008, 01:15 PM	#1
traper99 Inactive Account Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: raleigh nc Posts: 3	K200D with old lenses Staff note: This post may contain affiliate links, which means Pentax Forums may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. If you would like to support the forum directly, you may also make a donation here. I've heard that some older Pentax mount but non Pentax lenses (specifically the Vivitar Series 1 zooms) won't fit properly on a K200D body. Has anyone had any experience with this?

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12-02-2008, 01:35 PM	#2
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,886	it is a simple question of the shield around the apature activating lever being too big. Check the lens database or do a search, there should be a couple of threads on the modifications needed.

12-02-2008, 01:41 PM	#3
traper99 Inactive Account Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: raleigh nc Posts: 3 Original Poster	Thanks! I'll do that. I don't want to throw away the Vivitar; it's old, yeah, but a great piece of glass.

12-02-2008, 01:47 PM	#4
slomojoe Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Upstate NY Posts: 788	I had a Series1 70-210 which was fine with my Ds and 100D (and I would assume would be also fine with a 200D). The only problem I encountered with an older lens was with a Vivitar 28-85 Macro, which has an extended mount "ridge" that prevented it from being mounted on my dSLRs. I don't think any S1 lense had that, though. I read somewhere that it can be filed away, but I never tried (sold my lens with an ME super). Then there is of course the issue of the extra pin in the Ricoh mount (aka KR, K-R, K/R), which actually gets stuck inside the camera mount. That is dangerous, but easy to detect, see: here . I don't think Series 1 lenses ever had this either, but this one you definitely want to check before trying.

12-02-2008, 02:16 PM	#5
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,886	Originally posted by slomojoe The only problem I encountered with an older lens was with a Vivitar 28-85 Macro, which has an extended mount "ridge" that prevented it from being mounted on my dSLRs. I don't think any S1 lense had that, though. I read somewhere that it can be filed away, but I never tried (sold my lens with an ME super). Never "file" the ridge away on the lens. dismount the collar from the lens (3 small screws) then file the collar far far away from the lens. Or cut it with a hacksaw, and then re-mount the collar. Note, also paint it black where it was cut to stop reflections (again far far away from the lens) Takes about 10 minutes per lens.

01-16-2009, 09:20 AM	#6
tybeck Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 452	I just got a Vivitar 120-600mm only to find that it has the very problem you speak of with my K10D. It looks like you either have to shave down the extra ridge or only use it with a teleconverter. I don't have an older camera to compare it to, but it looks like the electrical contacts for the newer on-lens focusing (non-screw drive) is blocking the way. Put some picts below. I have until after the weekend to return the lens, so I need to decide if it's a keeper or not. If I modify the the lens was suggested here (edit: even more detail here) I can't return it. Decisions, decisions. "Normal" K-Mount (older Vivitar 28-85mm) Vivitar 120-600mm (note is even marked "P/K")

01-16-2009, 02:07 PM	#7
tigershoot Forum Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Ashford, Kent Posts: 63	I have the 28-200mm Vivitar Zoom from 1988. Built like a tank. First day of getting my K20D (my first DSLR) and I found I could not twist the lens to mount. I will try some surgery and see what happens.

01-17-2009, 08:25 AM	#8
shutterpuppy Inactive Account Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Dallas Texas Posts: 319	Originally posted by tigershoot I have the 28-200mm Vivitar Zoom from 1988. Built like a tank. First day of getting my K20D (my first DSLR) and I found I could not twist the lens to mount. I will try some surgery and see what happens. I bought an old Vivitar ( Non Series One) 70-210mm for my k200d and it worked great although I forgot one thing..THAT SUCKER WAS HEAVIER THAN I REMEMBER FROM THE 70s!! I must be getting old I resold it and got my Sigma with an extra 100mm and it seemed like a feather in comparison + I get auto focus ability. Barry

01-18-2009, 06:14 PM	#9
tybeck Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: San Francisco, CA Posts: 452	Did the "surgery" on my lens and it works wonderfully not. A few tips if you try this. 1) Work small screws carefully as not to strip the head 2) Shorter is better than longer for the raised fin, take a few mm off of what you think is the right length. 3) A Drummel tools with a grinding wheel is much easier that a file or a hack saw. Now I just need to wait for the birds to come through in the spring and we'll see what this little converted puppy can do.

01-20-2009, 06:22 PM	#10
Sodbuster Inactive Account Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: SE Minnesota Photos: Gallery Posts: 109	I see four very very tiny phillips screws on my Vivitar 70-210 macro. Are those the right screws? I don't want to take something apart that I don't need to on this.

01-20-2009, 06:52 PM	#11
Stratman Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: St Louis, Missouri U S A Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,464	Search Hinmans posts, he has fixed a few lenses like this with either a dremel, or just by completely removing the protruding flange.

01-21-2009, 04:48 PM	#12
Quicksand Pentaxian Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Central Ohio (formerly SF Bay Area) Posts: 1,519	Originally posted by Stratman Search Hinmans posts, he has fixed a few lenses like this with either a dremel, or just by completely removing the protruding flange. Yeah, on one old lens I have, I was able to unscrew that flange entirely and just leave it off. It doesn't seem to make any difference, other than leaving the aperture lever essentially "naked" and unprotected now. But of course I keep a rear cap on the lens when it's not on the camera, so that's no big deal for me.

01-21-2009, 04:58 PM	#13
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,886	Originally posted by Quicksand Yeah, on one old lens I have, I was able to unscrew that flange entirely and just leave it off. It doesn't seem to make any difference, other than leaving the aperture lever essentially "naked" and unprotected now. But of course I keep a rear cap on the lens when it's not on the camera, so that's no big deal for me. it might cause some funny reflections due to stray light, that is why it is there, and why I advised painting it black when cut to cover the silver shiny surface