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01-18-2022, 10:34 AM - 1 Like   #16
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I shoot a K-3 occasionally, a K-70 pretty regularly, and a KP pretty much all the time.

In a direct comparison, the K-3's images look really good. The K-70 is a step up, and the KP is another step up from there. The KP feels almost indistinguishable from the images of my K-1 (except the resolution and field of view differences).

Notable great things about the K-3:
I like the burst rate, relatively fast/deep buffer, dual memory cards, the DLi90 battery, and the capacity to add the battery grip.

Things I like about the K-70:
The flippy screen... sometimes. It's a flip-left, twist-around flippy screen. That makes it handy for waist-level Live View viewfinding in portrait mode, and a bit tougher in landscape orientation. The screen flips around so if you're in front of the camera you can see it too.
Though be warned - the flippy screen doesn't necessarily play well with an L-bracket, and especially if you've got it on a tripod in portrait mode on your L-bracket. I dremel-tooled a big chunk out of a cheap L-bracket to get a little bit more flexibility, but it's still a nagging usability issue for me every now and then. Not a dealbreaker.

Things I love about the KP:
Image quality and user experience. It's a lot of fun to shoot, you can pack it up small, and it plays GREAT with the DA limited compact series.
Pentax's decision to have a battery grip with this one. I don't use mine often, but I do use it often enough to be glad it's there (and that it takes the DLi90 battery too).
The third dial. Amazing. I'm so happy such an easy improvement is there.
No chance of solenoid failure.
The changeable grips. I keep mine on the smallest 100% of the time, but if things were different I may consider switching them out.
The tilty-screen. It rotates up or down, and doesn't spin out. Full compatibility with an L-bracket.
3-Legged Thing's "Ellie Short" L-bracket isn't a dedicated KP L-bracket, but it may as well be. Perfectly compatible, everything where it should be.
The Electronic Shutter option. If you're doing continuous drive mode with ES on, the mirror stays up. No mirror slap at all.
The durability. Probably not a lot of people are talking about this, but I'll vouch for the KP. Mine is my dedicated timelapse camera, so I'm putting it through extended hell quite often. Yesterday morning was a fog & rainstorm... held up fine for 1,000+ shots on one battery (no grip). Swapped battery and was shooting another timelapse that night. Swapped battery and shot through rolling fog all morning today, another 1,200 shots on one battery without complaining.

Drawbacks of the K-70 and KP:
The DLi109 battery. Don't get me wrong - I push mine to the brink and they hold up OK. They're just not the boffo 90.
The remote shutter input. It's a 3.5mm plug rather than a 2.5mm. Not only does that mess with all my intervalometers and shutter cables, the jack can be picky & fussy.
Remote shutter input is on the LEFT side of the body, rendering it extremely problematic to use vertically with an L-bracket. I had to buy special low-profile right-angle plugs to work around this massive problem.
My solenoid failed on the K-70. Tons of old threads saying it's not as prevalent of an issue. If you find those, go browse the K-70 forum and get a much clearer picture.

My bottom-line opinion:
You can't go wrong with either 3, and you'll be vastly impressed with the upgrade no matter which you order.
If you play it right on the United States used market, you can grab a good condition, low mileage K-3ii for $550-600ish. A KP usually for $600+/-. And K-70's are sold quite often on Amazon Warehouse for $250-450, and sometimes those come bundled with the 18-135 or 18-55 (the deeper the discount though, the higher likelihood that it's already developed a solenoid issue).

Pick one and be happy! They're great little cameras and you're going to be thrilled with the results!

Last edited by disasterfilm; 01-20-2022 at 12:04 AM.
02-11-2022, 06:44 PM - 1 Like   #17
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I'm really happy to see I'm not the only person that really struggled with choosing between the K-70 and K-3 ii (The KP had be for a while, but I just couldn't find one as inexpensive as the 70 or 3 ii.

I ended up going with the K-3 ii because of the GPS. I take the majority of my images while hiking, and I look forward to being able to see where I was when I fired off the pictures.

It was a really REALLY hard choice though. The K-3 ii is heavier, so hiking with it may make me wish I'd sucked it up and got the K-70, but the K-3 ii feels SO good in my hand.

I'm moving up from a K10D so it will be a HUGE jump for me, I can't wait (6 more days for the K-3 ii I ordered to arrive).
02-11-2022, 09:40 PM - 1 Like   #18

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The K-70's articulating rear screen can be useful for certain circumstances, and its higher ISO performance is definitely better, if you need this factor, but its build quality, durability, reliability, and set of controls are not in the same league as your K-5 II, which is made to professional standards. So in these regards it is not an upgrade at all, but a downgrade. The K-3 or K-3 II OTOH are indeed in the same quality league as the K-5 II while able to deliver greater resolution, and thus definitely an upgrade over your K-5 II, yet not having the higher ISO capability of the K-70.

If you are patient and save up for it, the K-3 III is definitely an upgrade over the K-3 II in every way and with even better high ISO performance over the K-70. Since you have your still functional K-5 II, this would be the upgrade that would make the most difference and set you up well for the long hall. Then keep your old K-5 II as backup and for casual use. However, if you rarely have need for higher ISO performance, then just go with a K-3, or K-3 II. The KP is a great little camera. I love mine, having been my most-used body for these last several years, though I still keep and sometimes use my old K-5 IIs, which is in perfect condition. The KP does not quite have all the dedicated controls of those APS-C flagship models in order to achieve its unique compact advantage, but its newly-designed controls are a brilliant close alternative for convenience. The last couple of years, I went for a new K-1 II to make use of my very fine FF glass and gain the different perspective and use of these lenses with the advantages FF has to offer. Because it was such a great deal as a kit, I ordered mine with the excellent DFA 28-105mm lens as well. In my case, I am very happy with what I now have.

As to the processor, the KP uses the Prime IV with accelerator, same as the K-1 II. This means for JPEG images right out of the camera. If you shoot RAW images all the time and do your own processing, this is a non-issue. For JPEG images rghtout of the camera, the KP does an outstanding job. Just set up "Fine Sharpening" in the Custom Image menus. In the "Bright" category, the sharpening level is up one notch by default. I cannot speak regarding the processor of the K-3 II as I have never owned one. That of my K-5 IIs is pretty good, though. I set up "Fine Sharpening" with it also, while in the "Bright" category even increasing the default +1 level yet another notch as well with this camera.

Last edited by mikesbike; 02-11-2022 at 10:23 PM.
02-12-2022, 03:09 PM - 1 Like   #19
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Owning both...K3-II and more recently K-70

For me the difference is in the use case...
The K-70 is simpler (as in "less buttons") and easier to use as a point and shoot camera. There are some preset modes for night and sports and ....etc... that my family members appreciate. We have also other pocket and bridge camera's with similar presets, they just don't understand why the "high end" K3 doesn't have these presets.

I owned the K3-II first, and I am used to select my preferences for aperture or shutter or ISO or bracketing... The top LCD of the K3 is here quite helpfull , I do miss it on the K-70. The rear LCD is available on both, but you can reverse/close the one of the K70 -safer for scratches- leaving only the viewfinder option.
The flip out of the LCD of k-70 is sometimes handy (but also a concern of vulnerability for me).

The K3-II has two cardslots (if you shoot RAW+JPEG this is helpfull or if you shoot large bunches of pictures).

The Wireless of the K-70 probably outperforms the SDcard based wireless option of the K3 (but I gave up using wireless on the K-3 before we acquired the K70... never tried it on the new body) Remote triggering is helpfull for macro pictures (using a tripod and remote triggering), the k-70 has both the flip screen and wireless...

The GPS was a relief for me, on my older K10 I used a GPS tracker and (sometimes cumbersome) postprocessing to add location to the photo's (by timestamp matching - the caveat is time zones can be set different in tracker and camera! ). Many of my travel and nature picture are outside my neighbourhood and location tracking facilitates later processing/retrieval. We sometimes contribute to nature and wildlife spotting , where reporting position matters to create statistics on habitats...

The other differences in specifications matter less for me - both take similar good images. The K-70 processor is indeed a bit slower, matters sometimes but rarely.

We use the K-70 rather for point and shoot style , family photo's, while I prefer the K3 more for complexer setups (like you indicate studio and landscape work) and also in combination with vintage lenses .

The word "rather" might matter here : in the end both cameras can do all use case, but one might fit or feel better than the other for a certain use.

02-12-2022, 06:01 PM - 1 Like   #20

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It is true- that the K-70 has been for quite some time Pentax's only entry level DSLR, that incorporates the amateur-oriented "SCENE" modes. These can be handy for those new to SLR camera use to be able to get good results right off, while at the same time can gradually learn how to choose the right settings to address specific lighting issues present in certain conditions, and addressing situations which will need modifying ISO, shutter speed, and aperture from the normal average.

But for someone having long used a more advanced model like a K-5 or a K-3, which being designed for advance photographers omits these automated modes, it is assumed they have become advanced enough for such features to be unnecessary. In fact, with the "more buttons" available, the corrections needed offered via the "SCENE" modes of the lesser model can be implemented far moe readily than it would take to select a "SCENE" mode, and with more accurate results. But of course, as mlag indicates, this use of efficient controls requires knowing what one is doing.

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