[mikesbike]

YAY!! Thank you so much for the quick answers. Looking forward to finding a good deal on that puppy...amazon days coming up soon. I've been missing taking pictures and this body should make beautiful pics. Wonder how my APS-C lenses will do, does it give a black halo or something? Guess I need to start reading up on it...

EDIT: I also have an old K2000 and wonder if it also suffers from that. I think it still works but haven't used it in close to a decade.

Your K200D might still work fine, but after such a length of time, it probably has lost its internal info charge-up so you'd need to reset time and date whenever changing batteries. Still a good camera, and some users like the colors from the CCD sensor.... but not in the same league in some respects as the more recent models. It employs the better solenoid part from the previous supplier, which could be transferred to your K30, for a permanent fix. As others have suggested, whether you would benefit from the particular advantages the K-1 II would offer over a better APS-C body depends on your shooting needs. My own are varied enough so both serve me well depending on the occasion and circumstance.

As to the K-1 II, it is one awesome camera. But with the larger full-frame (FF) sensor, you are getting into a whole other experience in photography, as the lenses you are accustomed to using have a narrower angle or field-of-view (FOV) at a given focal length (FL) on APS-C bodies than they would on a FF body. For example, a 50mm lens would provide a moderate telephoto FOV on your cameras with the smaller APS-C sensors, but would present a "normal" angle- neither tele nor wide on a FF camera, including a 35mm film body. In this case, a possible practical advantage for APS-C, as the 50mm lens becomes near to being a poor-man's FA 77mm Limited on a FF body- similar image size in the viewfinder (VF), which is within the ideal FL range for portraits, for instance. APS-C can thus also offer a big savings In expense, size, and weight when dealing with longer telephoto needs. So as to which of my setups I will be using on a particular occasion depends what kind of subject matter I'll be shooting and distance, the circumstances of traveling around where compact carrying will be paramount, etc. Both FF and APS-C have their distinct advantages. Sometimes they do overlap in terms of practical usage, as to FL and FOV vs. size. When this is the case, the 36mp K-1 II will have the image quality advantage, though my KP with a likewise quality lens will be close. But coming from a K30, you would very likely find some major improvements in imaging, and certainly in higher ISO performance.

I am an old 35mm film shooter, including many years with Pentax gear. When I finally got into digital, my first DSLR was a Pentax model, and have been upgrading ever since (including the K200D). Until the coming of the K-1, all Pentax DSLR models have been APS-C. So from experience, I became aware of the differences between FF and APS-C very quickly, having come from the FF end (as is 35mm film).

As to your APS-C lenses, most would only be usable in crop mode on the K-1 II, which would be at a resolution and FOV quite similar to that of your K30. In FF mode, most would present significant darkening-vignetting in corners and at edges of the frame. But not all DA lenses do this, as some are FF compatible. It would be of interest to us if you would post the lenses you own, so we could give you some insight here.

In any case, I would strongly advise upon purchasing the K-1 II, that you get the deal with the DFA 28-105mm "kit" lens included, as I did. 28mm on the FF K-1 II provides substantial wide angle, where on APS-C bodies, 28mm would provide no WA at all. This lens is far above the usual "kit" lens. The quality of this lens is absolutely outstanding, and a bargain at its normal non-kit price, but prepackaged with the K-1 II you get about $100 off for the lens. The usual price of this lens alone is around $500 US. I got mine through B&H, with whom I've done business for many years. In case you are in the USA, I'd suggest you take a look. I just checked, and they still offer the same deal, which includes throwing in some useful accessories. Be sure to look through all the Pentax DSLR listings to find the deal. Although I have some very fine old lenses from my 35mm film use, this way I reasoned, I'd have a lens offering WR to go with the WR construction of the camera, as well as excellent, quiet, fast AF performance. I was not prepared for the very fine imaging quality this lens provides!

Hopefully, you would not use this camera with the mode dial set to the green "auto", which would disable controls, leaving complete control to the camera and denying all access to controls and adjustments. For fully automated exposure setting, use the "P" Program mode instead, which allows all access, including the exclusive Pentax Hyper System. When in P mode, and the camera sets a shutter speed or aperture not to your liking, you can instantly change to your preference simply by using the front finger or rear thumb dials, and the camera will instantly obey (if lighting allows at the ISO setting), switching to Av or Tv operation without having to first change the mode dial to Av to Tv before making your selection. A touch of the green button instantly restores full P operation. Very fast and efficient. I believe the K30 has this feature, requiring both front and rear dials, but the K200D does not. It is an old, very useful Pentax design.

If you often or sometimes like to shoot highest-quality JPEG images right out of the camera, for superior results, it is best to go into the Custom Image menus to adjust sharpening. On the K-1 II, there is direct access via the button right of the ok button. Then these 4 surrounding buttons serve for navigation. With the K-1 II, as is common for upper-level designs, native sharpening is conservative as many users will post-process images to their liking. As to the K-1 II, I find this is to be even true of the most often-used "Bright" Custom Image category, in which sharpening by default is already up by +1, so I increase that up one more notch to +2. Then as always, I also implement "Fine Sharpening" as well, using the rear thumb dial. You will then get really great results for right out of camera imaging.

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Last edited by mikesbike; 06-22-2022 at 05:23 PM.

[Mushu]

Jeez, tons of info to read through. Well okay then. Looks like I might want to move down to the K-3 Mark III instead. I didn't realize I wouldn't be able to use the entire sensor area with my older lenses and buying new full frame lenses is quite a big investment for a hobby. The problem I see with the K-3 III is lack of built-in flash. Not sure why they left that out, the pop-up worked great in my K-30.

I never fully read the manual so will need to learn about the "green dot" button I suppose, at least it would allow me to keep taking pictures until I buy a new camera. I still have my first camera, a K-1000 bought mail order through a Jafco catalog as a kid, but dreaded having to do everything manually again lol.

[Not a Number]

A few of the DA lenses will give adequate coverage of a full frame sensor. Some only within a focal length or aperture range. Ricoh has a compatibility list somewhere and there are several threads on the topic on the forum. I think the forum's lens compatibility checker will advise about sensor coverage.

Check Lens Compatibility with Your Pentax Camera

Even in crop mode the K-1 will deliver more megapixels than your K2000.

[Mushu]

So to use my K-30 in pure "manual" mode to avoid the aperture solenoid issue, do I just put the selector on "M" and manually set the exposure and aperture myself for each shot? or do I have to change things in the menu also? Perhaps a link to where I can read up is better to keep thread from getting cluttered...

[wadge22]

So to use my K-30 in pure "manual" mode to avoid the aperture solenoid issue, do I just put the selector on "M" and manually set the exposure and aperture myself for each shot? or do I have to change things in the menu also? Perhaps a link to where I can read up is better to keep thread from getting cluttered...

This is your thread about your issue with your camera! Answers to your questions won't be clutter.


To still use the camera, you will need to use the aperture ring. You will be taking the lens out of "A" mode for the aperture, and it will therefore need to be a lens with an aperture ring (DA lenses don't have it, so they won't work this way and can't work with your camera).


First there will be two settings you'll need to change, and you only have to do this once and leave it that way. One is custom setting 23: "Using Aperture Ring." You change it to "enable." The other one is setting the green button to "Tv shift" under "action in M/TAv Mode" in the custom settings or in button customization (I don't know for your model and can't find it in the manual). Again, you only need to mess with those once.

One last setting you may want to change is the "e-dial programming" for M mode so that the rear dial controls ISO, since you can't use the dial to control aperture.


For shooting:You will want to shoot in M mode on the mode dial. You will set your aperture by turning the aperture ring on the lens, and you can set your iso and shutter speed manually with the wheels on the camera body.

If you want to still use the light meter (vs. figuring out aperture, shutter speed and ISO all yourself), that's where the green button comes in. You set the aperture you want to use on the lens, then press the green button. The camera will stop the lens down, take a meter reading, and automatically set the shutter speed for an appropriate exposure. I don't think it will change the ISO for you, so you may have to also choose ISO yourself (on the camera), although I could be wrong about that.


You can read this article, and there's a video there too.

Looks like I might want to move down to the K-3 Mark III instead. I didn't realize I wouldn't be able to use the entire sensor area with my older lenses and buying new full frame lenses is quite a big investment for a hobby. The problem I see with the K-3 III is lack of built-in flash. Not sure why they left that out, the pop-up worked great in my K-30.

The K3iii really isn't a step down from the K1ii. It's a crop camera vs a full frame, yes, but it's newer and much more advanced. It's also a few hundred dollars more. They are both great cameras, if you can afford either one then the choice should come down to which sensor format you want. If you already have mostly DA lenses, the K3iii probably makes more sense. Neither one has a built in flash, and high end cameras often don't. You could also look at used older (and more affordable) cameras like the K3 mark I or II, or the KP.

[photogem]

The most failures were in the K-30, K-50, & K-500. There were less failures in the K-S1 & K-S2, but still there. Some K-70 bodies have failed, though the failures seem to be far less.

As I have shown in my thread about the history of the solenoid:
A LITTLE BIT OF HISTORY: Development of the solenoid in Pentax cameras - PentaxForums.com
there was another modification of the solenoid now used in the K-70.
But with the first mod some did still fail.
That was in Dec 2015: All K-S1/K-S2's built after Dec. 2015 also had far less failure rates,
I am pretty certain that the solenoid now used in the K70 is fine.

[photogem]

So to use my K-30 in pure "manual" mode to avoid the aperture solenoid issue, do I just put the selector on "M" and manually set the exposure and aperture myself for each shot? or do I have to change things in the menu also? Perhaps a link to where I can read up is better to keep thread from getting cluttered...

The importance of change in the menu was already explained.
If you know how to use Av or Tv, then M-Mode shouldn't be a problem, actually metering is very precise using it
I grew up with it so it is in my system, but I became lazy and used mainly Av or Tav.

Using lenses having an A-ring in M-Mode often gives better results than using them with the ring set on A-position and Av!

I don't know why but because I anyway again and again use my Takumars and some other great vintage glass I am used to the green button anyway.


But there is something I came up quite recently when repairing a Pentax K-x but with parts of the K-m (complete top and back of a K-m transplanted to the K-x) So out of curiosity I went out with the K-x and some of my manual lenses. The result was very good. I think the 12.4 CMOS Sensors of the K-x are perfect for old manual lenses, quite forgiving.

Anyway, I wrote a tuturial how to exchange the solenoid, it is much easier than you think!

[mikesbike]

he problem I see with the K-3 III is lack of built-in flash. Not sure why they left that out, the pop-up worked great in my K-30.

Well, the K-1 II has none either- but it does feature a built-in GPS, which takes up room a built-in flash would need. So I also bought the inexpensive, neatly compact Pentax AF 201 FG hot shoe flash, which is so compact it lives stored in the front accessory zipper pocket of the holster camera case in which I normally carry the K-1 II. Though so compact, it is more powerful than a built-in flash, runs on 2 AAA batteries, and even has a tilt head design, up for ceiling bounce or down for close work. However, I do agree about the handy aspect of a built-in flash, as I do use mine sometimes on my KP, K-5 IIs, and K-S2 bodies. It is always right there when needed. I nearly always use fill flash for outdoor daylight people shots, for instance. Unfortunately, the K-3 III has neither the built-in flash nor GPS, so if desiring GPS you would need to get the GPS accessory as well.

I for one would still like to see a list of lenses you do own, as some might still be usable in FF mode on the K-1 II. One, as I recall, is the DA 40mm f/2.8 Ltd, which when used on a FF body provides a very versatile semi-wide normal FOV, a really excellent walk-around prime lens, and so extremely compact it would be a good option not only for fine image quality, but to be very effective in offsetting the weight of the K-1 II as a walk-around ensemble. As I said, when there is an overlap of usability incorporating a somewhat equation of image size FOV, lens quality and practicality of physical size between FF and APS-C ensembles, the superb 36mp sensor of the K-1 II will be ahead in resolution. Not that image quality of the better APS-C models is not excellent with top-quality lenses- I certainly do get absolutely marvelous quality out of my KP, but image quality I regularly get out of my K-1 II is simply phenomenal.

Also, when it comes to certain lenses, there are no equivalents in APS-C. There really is no such compact semi-wide normal lens for APS-C bodies, and with exceptional image quality too. Then there is the also compact FA 43mm f/1.9 Ltd, as well as the FA 31mm f/1.8 Ltd, or the excellent but reasonably-priced HD FA 35mm f/2- on FF it's a moderate wide angle, there again no equivalent lenses for a similar FOV, compactness, and aperture capability, for APS-C. For FF, an extraordinarily compact, but well-performing WA-to-moderate tele zoom lens, there's the old film era ""F" 35-70mm f/3.5-4.5 at bargain used prices. The DA 21mm Ltd lens on APS-C also makes for a very useful FL for a walk-around very compact prime lens, with high quality imaging, but not really in the same league as the FA 31mm f/1.8 Ltd on the K-1 II, which would provide a similar FOV. However, when it comes to longer telephoto, APS-C has the practical advantage.

[reh321]

Jeez, tons of info to read through. Well okay then. Looks like I might want to move down to the K-3 Mark III instead. I didn't realize I wouldn't be able to use the entire sensor area with my older lenses and buying new full frame lenses is quite a big investment for a hobby. The problem I see with the K-3 III is lack of built-in flash. Not sure why they left that out, the pop-up worked great in my K-30.

Honestly, pop-up flashes are a lousy source of light. They are weak, and provide a point-source of light {which tends to create hash shadows}.
I am still using an add-on flash which I got in the 1980’s, when our daughters were young, at a time when cameras didn’t have flash.

The K-3iii is a fine camera; my primary camera is now a KP, which cost me about $700, and does use the lenses which I originally got for my K-30. Incidentally, some here still use manual mode on purpose.
Manually setting aperture on the lens and shutter speed on the camera body is still an improvement on what I did in the 1980’s; in those days, I had to manually focus also, and I could change ISO only when I changed film, typically every 24 or 36 shots, and then only to one of the rolls I had in my bag. I tended to use ‘Kodachrome25’, which {as its name implied} was ISO 25.

[UncleVanya]

Honestly, pop-up flashes are a lousy source of light. They are weak, and provide a point-source of light {which tends to create hash shadows}.
I am still using an add-on flash which I got in the 1980’s, when our daughters were young, at a time when cameras didn’t have flash.

The K-3iii is a fine camera; my primary camera is now a KP, which cost me about $700, and does use the lenses which I originally got for my K-30. Incidentally, some here still use manual mode on purpose.
Manually setting aperture on the lens and shutter speed on the camera body is still an improvement on what I did in the 1980’s; in those days, I had to manually focus also, and I could change ISO only when I changed film, typically every 24 or 36 shots, and then only to one of the rolls I had in my bag. I tended to use ‘Kodachrome25’, which {as its name implied} was ISO 25.

Respectfully I disagree. I use my onboard flash as a full flash and get good results.

Compare these:
IMGP9382_DxO by -vanya_42nd-

IMGP9383_DxO by -vanya_42nd-

[reh321]

Respectfully I disagree. I use my onboard flash as a full flash and get good results.

Respectfully, I totally disagree.
I cannot bounce the onboard flash. I almost never use fill-flash or portraits, but often take inside photos at home.
I keep an external flash attached to my K-30 at home, so I can use bounce flash at a moment's notice.
This morning I had it at hand so I could photograph when our cat Annie played with the box our new grill came in.
Flash from the onboard unit would create harsh shadows that would make an image of our dark cats difficult to understand, but bounce flash works very well with them.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/132-pentaxian-lounge/302483-post-your-pe...ml#post5585573

added: my flash is very small, and could be carried in your camera bag.

[gatorguy]

Respectfully I disagree. I use my onboard flash as a full flash and get good results.

Compare these:
IMGP9382_DxO by -vanya_42nd-

IMGP9383_DxO by -vanya_42nd-

It is a convenience when you have no expectations of needing one, yet realize for that specific shot you'd benefit from a bit of pop-up fill-light and don't want to hassle with a speedlight or have the time to mount one. The K-70's is actually fairly decent, with a good amount of light output if close enough, even in an outdoor setting. I don't think I'd use it indoor very often (as REH says it's pretty glaring), but outdoor having a pop-up flash on-body has it's benefits.

Now the KP's on the other hand is very underpowered IMO, and not nearly as useful. Seems like it was just put there as a spec-line, but even there is better to have than not for a typical casual camera.

[wadge22]

I have had decent success with onboard flash if I modify it with a piece of paper in front of it. Whether it's by bouncing the light upwards at the ceiling, or diffusing it "through" the paper, I don't know, but it does work pretty good. I usually set the flash comp to +1 for that method, and adjust the ev comp as needed after looking at a shot or two. If I'm using onboard flash without the paper-in-front-of-it trick, I usually set the flash comp to something negative.
I'm sure one of the little modifiers they sell designed to fit over onboard flashes would work even better, or at least as well anyways, as my paper trick.

There are also situations, like big rooms with a fair amount of ambient light, or outside, where the onboard flash is just fine as is, for fill.

It's certainly not as good as a nice flash unit and accesories, but sometimes it's what you have, and you make due.

[gatorguy]

I'm guilty too, but perhaps we can get back on topic with all that needs to be written about pop-up flash in this aperture-block question thread now already said.

[reh321]

I'm guilty too, but perhaps we can get back on topic with all that needs to be written about pop-up flash in this aperture-block question thread now already said.

Yes, we have talked and talked about this with respect to the K-3iii.

Before people had an actual camera body to compare it with, they complained about the KP ‘lacks’. Now the KP looks ‘OK’, but it is no longer on the market.

I purchased a KP 2-1/2 years ago when it was still on the market, because the ‘lacks’ were either features I had never used or didn’t matter to me for other reasons. I accidentally damaged the top early in the time I owned it, and subsequently accidentally glue the flash down, but that didn’t matter to me because I have always used an external unit {and I’ve never used it with the KP; I use it with the K-30}.

The fact remains that a K-3iii and a K-70 are the only cameras available from Pentax right now to use “APS-C” lenses. The K-70 does still use the solenoid, but the latest version does seem to be OK. The other choices are used versions of K-3, K-5, K-7, and KP bodies.