[ZombieArmy]

Agreed. KP is much better.

In this regard anything after the K-5 series is better. K50/K-01/K-3/etc... The archaic live view to me is what keeps the K-5IIs from being the best APSC camera Pentax has put out (relative to when it came out that is of course)

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Last edited by ZombieArmy; 07-18-2022 at 11:15 AM.

[pres589]

That's a good point about the Live View implimentation on the K-5's. I saw this as basically an either/or considering cost as well as features/quality/etc. For the low-cost path I'd go K-5 II or IIs. Much higher cost relative to the K-5's is the KP. Those are the two I'd be most interested if it were me *with my own money*. After that the K-3 III but that's well beyond the OP's stated budget.

[wadge22]

A $5 lens on a $1000 camera will give you $5 images.

I mean... a used K1 with something like an M 50/2 or the right Vivitar (or Sears, JC Penney, Sigma, Tokina, etc). 28, 35, 50, or 135, could be perfectly usable.

$5 is extremely low; you basically won't find any lens online for that price shipped. But if you can save for a week or two and stretch that into $25, and you do a little research and a little smart shopping, you can get something you can work with. Also, thrift and pawn shops locally can have something decent gathering dust that they are happy to move, or there can be ebay auctions that start low and attract no interest.

[mikesbike]

I would say after 10 years an upgrade would be a reasonable solution, even though 4.400 shots is very low. You'd need to find an older Pentax model like a K100D having the older white solenoid for a transplant operation to effect a permanent fix of your K500. For around 1,000 bucks to get a much upgraded body over your K500 with far better low light performance, a good used KP would provide all of that and more, with great features and a great set of controls. No solenoid issue.

[moth_baller]

Given this, just get lenses with aperture rings to suit your requirements, make friends with the magic "green button" and carry on regardless

I'm not familiar with the K-500 directly, but looking at the specifications it would seem to be in a similar class to my K-5, so my further comments should be taken with that in mind.



The K-70 is well ahead of the K-5 as far as low light performance is concerned, but the KP, if you can find one, takes it to a whole new level. The K-3iii is a step again further, but out of your quoted budget.
An alternative would be to use faster lenses. Given your enthusiasm for Manual, a couple of fast old manual lenses might scratch your itch for low light work without breaking the bank

The k5 and k500 are essentially the same camera with the k5 being weather sealed. Ive only briefly looked cameras and have noticed (probably due to cell phones earing market share) these things have gone up a ton for something that isn't 100 percent entry level still. I got my k500 on clearance for 400 with a lens. I kinda lucked out with it. I am leaning towards new glass and sticking with pentax and saving for a while to up my budget. B and h has a kp right now for 750. Tempting but I got a good month in a half before I'll he able to afford anything. Wanted to see what the forum said and suggested before went down the rabbit hole with research. I will take closer look at the kp and k70. My k500 doesn't seem to handle noise well above 400iso in lower light.

---------- Post added 07-18-22 at 08:18 PM ----------

The solenoid issue can be repaired fairly easily by anyone with decent soldering skills.
Have a look at these threads: Detection of aperture block/diaphragm-block failure/stuck solenoid K-30, K-50, K500 - PentaxForums.com
And: Manual solenoid replacement Pentax K30 / Discharge flash-condenser / Solenoid choice - PentaxForums.com

For $1,000, I'm guessing you'd have to buy secondhand. Nothing wrong with that. Several more modern Pentax bodies should serve you well, from the K-70 to the various K-3 bodies to the K-1 and K-1ii.
Can't help you on the Sony front, sorry.

If its still open. There's a shop in Cali that specializes in fixing the solenoid issue for 100 bucks. I am pretty good at soldering but I'm used to larger items like guitar amps and stuff. Fine electronics I'm kind of not great at. I've had the stuff in a cart many times to fix it over the years. But too afraid I'll break it and as long as it doesn't sit for more than a couple days, it doesn't creep back up again.

I only mentioned Sony because I'm not invested in the pentax platform to be stuck with it.

---------- Post added 07-18-22 at 08:21 PM ----------

@moth_baller

if you are ok with " experienced " equipment, I suggest you take a look at the options available in the forums' marketplace

I have had good luck dealing with other forum members when I purchase " experienced " equipment there

it can be sorted by country:

The Pentax Marketplace | Buy & Sell Pentax Cameras and Lenses (United States) - PentaxForums.com

the forum has a very useful side by side comparison tool for cameras:

as an example:

K 500 vs K 5 II vs KP vs K 70

Pentax K-500 vs. Pentax K-5 II vs. Pentax KP vs. Pentax K-70 - Pentax Camera Comparison - PentaxForums.com

I'm about to dive in the rabbit hole of cameras. I'm a little bit less enthusiastic about used bodies. Glass is a different story. I don't always have the best luck with electronics so warranty is important. However as I've noticed that there's not really anything new in my price range that is actually a meaningful upgrade. Still super entry level.

---------- Post added 07-18-22 at 08:44 PM ----------

When you say you'd like a couple of new lenses, do you have something in mind? I guess the real question is, what kind of pictures do you like to take? Is it landscapes, portraits, flowers and nature, birds (I guess not with the kit lens!), etc?

If you stay with Pentax, you would see quite a lot of difference if you bought, say, a couple of DA LImited lenses for your K-50 (in which case you should repair the K500 or get it repaired). Or, a lens like the DA 16-85mm would add image quality and more versatility - won't be as good IQ wise as the Limiteds but if you are a zoom person you should probably have one of these...

Or, you could keep your K500 as it is and add a few manual lenses, as @kypfer mentioned... there's a lot of fun to be had there, and a lot of times a lot of bang for the buck as well... lenses like the SMC-M 50mm f/1.7 (super good, super cheap), the SMC 50mm f/1.4, the SMC 28mm f/3.5, the SMC-M 100mm f/2.8, and perhaps the SMC-M 20mm f4 (a bit pricier than the others), to start with, would be tons of fun to work with. Then there's the Takumars.... a whole 'nother rabbit hole, one I have managed to stay away from, at least for now

The lens that came with it is a smc dal 18-55. New lenses i would want would be a decent fixed faster lens and a reasonable zoom lense 300mm or longer preferable.

I don't mind manual lenses but I'm awful at getting the focus correct. I'm not writing them off either. Look alright until I view them on the computer and they're always a bit off and fuzzy. Auto focus with the ability to use manual aperture would be what I would look for. I believe those may exist. I'm not well versed in glass. I've never owned more than 2 lenses at any time and never anything high end.

---------- Post added 07-18-22 at 08:55 PM ----------

The k-500 isn’t worth The cost of a professional repair, but diy or continued use via aperture ring lenses is a good option. The k-500 is a k-50 without weather sealing. Buying a used k-5 series or k-3 is as cheap as a pro repair and will be an upgrade albeit a small one. A KP or a k-70 offers a bigger upgrade. The KP is what I use most in Pentax apsc. I also own a Sony A7RIII (which even used is well outside the price range you have indicated particularly with lenses) but there are Sony apsc bodies and A mount that are cheaper as an option. Don’t rule out Nikon F Mount gear as another bargain option.

It really come down to what do you need to improve? If lower light photography is the aim then moving to a k-1 or k-1ii or a k-70 or KP is a possible path. What lenses do you have today? A word of warning - the k-70 can suffer from the same failure as the k-50 but it doesn’t seem the failure is as frequently mentioned and thus appears more reliable. In Sony, apsc isn’t going to gain much in terms of low light performance. The Sony full frame bodies available to you in the price range are clunky and come with compromises that you have to evaluate (poor EVF, focusing issues, battery life, poor ergonomics etc.) Nikon brings a lot of budget choices due to the move away from F mount, but in general the gear lacks IBIS and the apsc lens line up is weaker than Pentax. Low light performance of some bodies will exceed the k-500 but not the KP or k-70. Full Frame performance of bodies in your price range are likely to be an improvement over the k-70 but inferior to the k-1 or k-1ii. It’s not an easy decision to make.

I need to look it up but if it's still there this shop in Cali does it for like 100 bucks.

Yeah its not an easy decision. I'd like a meaningful upgrade (my old alpha to the k500 was a large improvement) unless I'm wrong it did seem that full frame has come down in price. I don't remeber seeing many options under 2k for a full frame when I last shopped for a camera.

Thanks definitely good info to keep in mind.

---------- Post added 07-18-22 at 09:06 PM ----------

I would get a couple of lenses with aperture rings and use those. I would also get a used K-3 -- it is a much higher end camera and you should be able to find a copy for somewhere between 350 and 400 dollars. It should have plenty of life left in it and plenty of room for you to grow into it.

Looking if I really do get a new body that it's going to have to be used. Used prices at 350 to 400 isn't horrible to me if it a much better performer. I'll keep an eye out on a k3 especially if it can be had that reasonably. That would leave room for at least 1 nice prime and a halfway decent zoom.

[moth_baller]

The lenses that will work with your aperture block-failed-camera (with green button metering) can be autofocus, such as F and FA series lenses. There are even more manual focus lenses that will work, but just wanted to make sure you're aware that it's any lens with an aperture ring, whether AF or MF, zoom or prime.

The K-70 is an awful lot of camera for the money (currently available new), will be much better in terms of low light (and other respects), and will use your current lens just fine. As mentioned, it has the possibility to suffer from aperture block failure as well, but seemingly less likelihood.

If you are either a very savvy or a rather patient shopper, and/or if you are able to stretch your budget just 10-20 %, there are decent chances you could find a K1 within your price range (there is one in the marketplace right now for $999). The K1 will really be an outstanding low light performer. You would still want full frame lenses, since your APSC kit lens will either vignette heavily or work fine in crop mode on K1 (which means losing many of the advantages of the camera). Used full frame lenses need not be expensive however (those same F and FA lenses I already mentioned), and there's a possibility you could still get it all in or around your budget.

Thanks for the model numbers. That helps a lot. Those get a bit confusing to me. I do remember looking the k70 at one point casually. More than once I've been sort of close. I didn't realize that it could also suffer from the aperture problem.

---------- Post added 07-18-22 at 09:24 PM ----------

If you're not afraid doing a repair on your own it wouldn't be too difficult with the k500. I'd say it's a low skill repair overall and the solenoid replacement itself will cost about 10-50 dollars depending if you want to get the green or white solenoid. Even if you do decide to get a new camera I would say it's worth repairing the k500 to have as a backup body, or one you're not afraid to use in more sketchy situations.

That generation of camera is very capable. I'd say spending 50 bucks on stuff to repair it then blowing 1000 on lenses would net you better results overall than going with a different body entirely.

It's a bit why I'm so on the fence on which way to go because nice glass on a less expensive body gives a better result than lower end glass on an expensive body most of the time. Only real issue I'd I have to make sure I get full frame lenses so that I don't lose the option of being stuck with a crop sensor for a new body down the road. I know you can do it but it's not ideal.

[UncleVanya]

The shop that you mentioned files the solenoid I think. That fix is not permanent. Make sure the fix includes a replacement with the older white solenoid to avoid regrets later.

[m42man]

You have several options:

1. Get K-mount lenses which have aperture rings, and use as prescribed. And/or an M42 adaptor, and some M42 lenses (Takumars are especially rewarding).

2. Fix the problem yourself, using a known-good solenoid (white). Plenty of tutorials online. Has the advantage over a "professional" repair, which will usually involve replacing a bad solenoid with a similar (green) one which will fail, all at great expense.

3. Abandon the K-500 and replace with a camera which doesn't suffer from the solenoid problem - which would be the pre-K-30 models (K100, K10, K200, K20, K-m/K2000, K-7, K-x, K-r), or the K-5 series, K-3 series, KP. But note that the lesser/earlier cameras (K100 especially) may well have been cannibalized and their sought-after white solenoid replaced with a green one. Note that the "entry-level" K-S1, K-S2 and K-70 all use a green solenoid.

[ZombieArmy]

The shop that you mentioned files the solenoid I think. That fix is not permanent. Make sure the fix includes a replacement with the older white solenoid to avoid regrets later.

Yes avoid modification of the solenoid. A lot of times that fix only lasts a bit. The replacement really is not a difficult repair especially on the k500/k30/k50.

[martin42mm]

I wouldn't touch any of the K-XX camera's like the K-70 due to the same aperture solenoid issues that exist with the K-500. Why bother with that?

I'd get a K-5 II or IIs for a few hundred bucks and move on OR go looking for a KP for the kind of money the OP is talking about. Otherwise I'd move to a mirrorless system.

According to the experience of Pentax repairers on thes forums and the main approved Pentax service department in the UK there is no evidence of any solenoid failure in any recent K-70 models, and very few in the earlier examples either. The upgraded solenoid ( maddeningly still 'green' just to add to the confusion !) is available for low cost from Pentax-do NOT buy the el-cheapo ones on ebay- or there is the option of the 'white' soleoid ( sold at exhorbitant prices on ebay), ot culled from non-working earlier Pentax DSLRs such as the *ist DL/DL2 where there are two, one in the flash compartment, and one in the usual place working the aperture 'lever'. You can also remove the flash one from a working example, but why do it when there are alternatives?

As for the original poster, I would agree that the alternatives are A) do not repair, and use aperture rings,B) repair it yourself ( look at the forum guides, quite simple if you follow those guides and inexpensive to do as I have found), or C) buy an alternative Pentax APSC body, and I would suggest either the K-5II or the newer-and excellent KP. I have both, and can say the are fine cameras, with the edge to the KP. Providing you avoid all K-xx bodies, (and I include the K-70 despite what I said above!) you will have zero aperture solenoid issues since these all use a different system to actuate the aperture control.

The K-500 has a decent sensor, so I can see no reason not to continue enjoying it. And don't chase new lenses just because they are 'the latest must-have'. There are excellent Pentax and 3rd-party lenses out there for any Pentax, both pre and post digital, and you will get more bang for your buck. My eyes water when I see the price of some of the Limited lenses, and lovely though they may be, I don't believe that sharpness to the nth degree guarantees a fine photograph. Many of my favourite photos date back to when I had just a Helios 58mm f2, and two Meyer lenses, the Lydith 30mm and Orestor 135mm -all presets.

Good luck with your final decision which only you can finally make.

---------- Post added 07-19-22 at 09:53 AM ----------

The k5 and k500 are essentially the same camera with the k5 being weather sealed. Ive only briefly looked cameras and have noticed (probably due to cell phones earing market share) these things have gone up a ton for something that isn't 100 percent entry level still. I got my k500 on clearance for 400 with a lens. I kinda lucked out with it. I am leaning towards new glass and sticking with pentax and saving for a while to up my budget. B and h has a kp right now for 750. Tempting but I got a good month in a half before I'll he able to afford anything. Wanted to see what the forum said and suggested before went down the rabbit hole with research. I will take closer look at the kp and k70. My k500 doesn't seem to handle noise well above 400iso in lower light.

---------- Post added 07-18-22 at 08:18 PM ----------



If its still open. There's a shop in Cali that specializes in fixing the solenoid issue for 100 bucks. I am pretty good at soldering but I'm used to larger items like guitar amps and stuff. Fine electronics I'm kind of not great at. I've had the stuff in a cart many times to fix it over the years. But too afraid I'll break it and as long as it doesn't sit for more than a couple days, it doesn't creep back up again.

I only mentioned Sony because I'm not invested in the pentax platform to be stuck with it.

---------- Post added 07-18-22 at 08:21 PM ----------



I'm about to dive in the rabbit hole of cameras. I'm a little bit less enthusiastic about used bodies. Glass is a different story. I don't always have the best luck with electronics so warranty is important. However as I've noticed that there's not really anything new in my price range that is actually a meaningful upgrade. Still super entry level.

---------- Post added 07-18-22 at 08:44 PM ----------



The lens that came with it is a smc dal 18-55. New lenses i would want would be a decent fixed faster lens and a reasonable zoom lense 300mm or longer preferable.

I don't mind manual lenses but I'm awful at getting the focus correct. I'm not writing them off either. Look alright until I view them on the computer and they're always a bit off and fuzzy. Auto focus with the ability to use manual aperture would be what I would look for. I believe those may exist. I'm not well versed in glass. I've never owned more than 2 lenses at any time and never anything high end.

---------- Post added 07-18-22 at 08:55 PM ----------



I need to look it up but if it's still there this shop in Cali does it for like 100 bucks.

Yeah its not an easy decision. I'd like a meaningful upgrade (my old alpha to the k500 was a large improvement) unless I'm wrong it did seem that full frame has come down in price. I don't remeber seeing many options under 2k for a full frame when I last shopped for a camera.

Thanks definitely good info to keep in mind.

---------- Post added 07-18-22 at 09:06 PM ----------



Looking if I really do get a new body that it's going to have to be used. Used prices at 350 to 400 isn't horrible to me if it a much better performer. I'll keep an eye out on a k3 especially if it can be had that reasonably. That would leave room for at least 1 nice prime and a halfway decent zoom.

Just a few reflections on what you said in this post ( see my earlier post as well).

If you can solder electronic components you will have zero problems with the desoldering/resoldering with the solenoid. Your iron may well be fine enough, and if not, there are some recommendations in the solenoid replacement forum-mine has a very fine point, has interchangeable bits, and variable temperature, all for about £10 on ebay. As for lenses, don't restrict yourself to full-frame lenses just in case you decide to ditch APSC sometime in the future. The lenses are specific to APSC, and tend to be smaller than full-frame, as well as cheaper. There will always be a market for the Pentax APSC lenses as long as Pentax keep making the cameras! If you want full-frame, stick to pre-digital ones for the moment, again they will be cheaper. Don't shy away from manual focus, which i grew up with. If you find the approximate focus point, and then 'rack' the focus back and forth either side of the focus point until you are happy-DON'T rely on the AF confirm light, it is not always accurate ! I changed the focus screen in my K-S1 for a cut-down Canon ( shock-horror) full-frame matte one to help, but my KP doesn't seem to need any help and I can 'spot' the focus 99% of the time. And at least you can review and retake, unlike with film.....and I only bought the KP because my K-S1 had aperture failure, which I subsequently cured myself. I love both, but the K-S1 is lighter and slightly more compact for times when you need lightness.

Regarding lenses, apart from my earlier comments, just have a look at the lens forum on the Pentax Forums which will show you all you need to know about performance and foibles. If the lens is AF, and has an aperture ring, you will see it in the photos, so that should also help. Don't chase more expensive glass if you think it will give you a better image because that is never a given, and again, sharpness is not the final attribute that makes of breaks a good image. I've seen some of Cartier-Bresson's famous photos close up and greatly enlarged, and not only are many out of focus, but some have camera shake as well! Doesn't stop them being iconic photos though. Plus many of those expensive bits of glass are that because the money has been spent on wider maximum apertures, which again can be a recipe for less than crisp images unless you are careful, Both low edge resolution and small depth of field( focus point) can affect ultimate sharpness. The wider apertures are more an aid to low-light composition ultimately, and you pay for that. I see you also mention digital noise about 400ASA, and to be honest I never have that problem because all my cameras are locked on 200ASA. If I need to compensate for low light, I either open the aperture, or use a slower speed. Again a hang-over from film days, and even then there was a trade-off between fast speed and image degradation.

---------- Post added 07-19-22 at 09:58 AM ----------

And a final thought. If you use the Li-109 battery in the K-500, it also fits the KP!

[mikesbike]

Only real issue I'd I have to make sure I get full frame lenses so that I don't lose the option of being stuck with a crop sensor for a new body down the road. I know you can do it but it's not ideal.

There are some very well-performing FF lenses available for reasonable prices. One of the best examples is the upgraded HD FA 35mm f/2, which performs very well even wide open, and is great for low light or action shots as well as for 1/2 body portraits. If I were in your shoes, I'd be patient in finding a used KP in fine condition and you'll never look back while not needing to look forward to the next APS-C model. Controls and feature set are excellent for quick adjustments and for practical usage needs. Pro-level build quality. Something can go wrong with anything built by us humans, even of the best quality, but this camera is of the more robust type. It can deliver exceptional results, even right out of the camera from its exceptional processor! Just remember to set up "Fine Sharpening" in the Custom Image menus.

I have had many Pentax DSLR models, including flagship models. I currently use my KP most often, but still sometimes use my K-5 IIs (still a favorite), and occasionally even my older but still perfect K20D in good lighting, for its extra-rich color saturation. Then my 2nd most often-used model is my FF K-1 II- which is truly superb, when compactness is not at issue. Then out comes its fine kit lens, the DFA 28-105mm WR lens, and also numerous other very good FF lenses from my 35mm film days. The KP for APS-C, and the K-1 II for FF shooting can provide great imaging and great low light performance that is truly incredible. For more telephoto shooting, for me APS-C is the way to go. Larger images with smaller, less expensive lenses for easier carrying. The quality delivered by the KP actually gets pretty close to that of the K-1 II. I use the K-1 II mainly in the WA to shorter tele range, when I do not have particular weight/size concerns, according to where and how I will be doing my shooting.

I'd say- get the KP and keep your K500 as a backup, or when you might want 2 cameras active, and for which you might find the opportunity to eventually repair. Then one-by-one get some good lenses according to what your shooting needs might be, and also the battery grip (which is not available for the cheaper models) which can take the same size battery as the top models, including the K-1 II. This together with the smaller regular battery in camera provide far more shooting time than the K-1 II alone and at about the same weight, and also more than any of the other APS-C models alone. Important for shooting events where interruptions for changing batteries is better avoided. It is also like night and day for better handling with larger lenses on the KP.

If you eventually get a K-1 II, I recommend doing as I did- take the special deal with the DFA 28-105mm kit lens. I got this deal, even though already having a good FA 28-105mm from film use and with power zoom available. The new one is even better optically, has fast, silent AF, and importantly, offers WR construction to match that of the camera. Marvelous imaging. A camera having WR is not actively so unless also having a WR lens on it.