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12-19-2008, 08:05 PM   #1
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Scene modes metering

Hi all -

Was frolicking in the snow, gave my wife the K100D to shoot a few of me and the kids. To help her out set it to SCN, snow/surf. One or two of the shots came out great as they were, but most were underexposed and had to be fixed. Realized after I had it on center-weighted metering, was this my mistake? I almost never use matrix metering, but does that work better with the auto-modes?

Thanks for any input, Nick

12-19-2008, 09:42 PM   #2
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I have no idea how the scene modes work, but why use one when it's just as easy if not easier to compensate for snow the old-fashioned way - by dialing in positive exposure compensation, so the camera doesn't try to reproduce the snow as 18% gray?
12-20-2008, 06:55 AM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by Marc Sabatella Quote
I have no idea how the scene modes work, but why use one when it's just as easy if not easier to compensate for snow the old-fashioned way - by dialing in positive exposure compensation, so the camera doesn't try to reproduce the snow as 18% gray?
I was thinking about this yesterday while driving home in the heavy snow storm here in NY. I used to shoot a lot of Black & White film and used a spot meter with a zone system scale on it. Using that I would move the reading 3 stops to bring the snow to Z-8. This seems excessive for my experience with the K10D so far. How far do you think it should be moved? I routinely use center weighted metering (old habits die hard).
Brian
12-20-2008, 04:25 PM   #4
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Ah Marc, but my wife was using my camera. I bought the K100 over the K10 so that she could use it like a P&S if she needed. I suppose zone metering is the way to go.


Last edited by Nick Siebers; 12-20-2008 at 07:25 PM.
12-21-2008, 10:55 AM   #5
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Actually, what I'd really recommend is "M" mode, and set the exposure off something other than the snow. Your own hand, perhaps, or some other medium-valued object. Point, hit green button, then hand camera to wife or whomever. Instant P&S with consistent exposure as long as the light doesn't change. If it does, ask for the camera back for a moment, turn wheel a click or two, hand camera back.

I suppose this is in effect what you are getting at in mentioning "zone", but while I'm familiar with the *idea* behind zone metering, I don't know anything about the specifics. I just think in terms of setting exposure based on where I want my shadows, highlights, and midtones to be.

Because that's the way I actually shoot, I don't really know what the appropriate amount of compensation is for snow. That is, I don't meter off the snow then compensate; I meter off something more medium-toned in the first place, then just let that exposure ride.

[ edited to remove way more typos than I could stand seeing any longer ]

Last edited by Marc Sabatella; 12-21-2008 at 09:16 PM.
12-21-2008, 05:19 PM   #6
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Yeah, that would work too, probably better. I've done the "hand = +1 ev" trick with a roll of slide film in an MX that came out great. Luckily with RAW most of the shots from this time could be saved.
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