What am I doing wrong with the K3-mk iii?

Fogel70 · 09-15-2022, 06:47 AM - **3 Likes**

From the data in the images you use different metering modes and auto vs manual white balance. That can maybe make the difference

K3III - Center weighted metering and auto WB. Center weight metering put priority on what it meter in the center, and if that is bright other parts of the image will be underexposed.
K70 - Multi segment metering and manual WB. Multi segment will evaluate the metering over the whole scene and it may explain why the K70 images are brighter.

Try use multi segment metering and same manual WB on both.

sbc · 09-15-2022, 06:56 AM

Maybe try the Green Auto mode for a few photos? If they turn out better, then perhaps it is some settings that are changed accidentally.

**termy** · 09-15-2022, 07:58 AM

Originally posted by Fogel70

From the data in the images you use different metering modes and auto vs manual white balance. That can maybe make the difference

K3III - Center weighted metering and auto WB. Center weight metering put priority on what it meter in the center, and if that is bright other parts of the image will be underexposed.
K70 - Multi segment metering and manual WB. Multi segment will evaluate the metering over the whole scene and it may explain why the K70 images are brighter.

Try use multi segment metering and same manual WB on both.

Was wondering about metering modes as well.

I have seen photographers who shoot everything using the so-called "multi zone metering" and then wondering why images came up not what they expecting / hoping.

Sadly, when i do get to chat with them, they Then start wondering why am i so "obsessed" (so to speak) with worrying / putting thought into picking different metering modes for different stuffs.

Cuz although they don't get what they expect / hope for, their thinking / approach to this, their "solution", is, you guessed it, "well, is ok, i can adjust lots of stuffs in post processing".

repaap · 09-15-2022, 08:01 AM

Yeah, I had also a look of your photos from K-3III and K-70. Also those in extra folders.

I'd say that the key is those WB and metering settings. So many things which can set things wrong. You should perhaps avoid AWB or as said before, use multi auto WB, it depends. But best way to achieve consistent result is fixed WB depending where you are, in, out, tungsten... or kelvin, like K5000 (that and shooting RAW should you want to change that in post). Second thing is the metering mode. I have AE linked with focus point when I meter it, but it might still need to be changed for some circumstances. Also I'm mostly using spot metering with 'green button'.

what you should have when you are comparing pictures side to side in order to see the differences, is to have them at excatly same settings. It could be easier to see the difference, if there will be any. Then you could concentrate on other things...like AF consistency 'n things like that.

I have K-3III, and what I did notice very clearly compared to original K-1 was that colours are much more 'correct' with K-3III even in mixed light.

one more thing what does come to my mind is that have you checked NR settings for you K-70 and K-3III. There are multiple settings for NR in K-3III. As this is latest version of accelerator, baked in NR is less than what it is in K-70.

Just some things you might want to check. The thing with these 'flagships' is that there are a lot what you can adjust. Depending of how much you want to do in post. Still many things that you can't switch off/on by default. That and more ways to controll your camera, sturdyness etc. So it is also more demanding... hope that this did help.

edit: and please, update your cameras FW, especially if you will be using it. There are many fixed things with bugs, but also how camera will actually function, accuracy etc...

**Larrymc** · 09-15-2022, 08:41 AM

I pretty much agree with what others have said in their evaluation of the images, the Mk III images look much less dull.

What you are hearing with your Sigma lens mounted is a normal sound when certain lens (KAF and KAF3) are mounted, my limited lens all make the same sound when mounted on the Mk III. The only lens I own that doesn't make the sound is my 55-300 PLM which is a KAF4 mount lens. You need to stop worrying about the camera and learn to use it properly and set it up right it is a much more sophisticated camera and takes a lot of effort to use to good effect, but you will be rewarded.

The little K-70 is a good camera but not in the same league as the Mk III. Hang in there the Mk III takes a bit of effort to come to grips with.

**luftfluss** · 09-15-2022, 08:56 AM

I opened both files of the doll (tiger?) with an older version of Adobe Camera RAW - it does not support K-3 III - and I can see that the K-70 image is warmer and more vibrant.

The focus points are different. The K-3 III image is more "back focused", leading the image to appear softer.

The overall brightness of both images is pretty similar.

**MossyRocks** · 09-15-2022, 09:31 AM

Originally posted by Mooncatt

Is it possible the ISO scale is different with the different sensors? I.e. ISO 100 on of sensor being the same as ISO 200 on a different sensor, meaning the settings aren't really the same. Kinda spit balling here since I don't own either camera, but it's a factor I've heard about when comparing ISO's between brands and wondered if it's much of a factor within a single brand.

From what I have seen over the years and generations of cameras this seems to be a no. There is some variation in sensor response color, and other thigns but nothing huge and a proper exposure with one camera and set of settings would produce more or less the same image with a different camera and same set of settings.

Originally posted by Velocidodo

Here's a link to a folder on my google drive.

ON the monitor I am currently on the images look similar enough. The white balance in the K-3iii looks better but other than that I'm not really seeing much difference. The closeups on the nose of the critter don't really show noise. Apart from the white balance the only difference I notice in the nose closeups is a slight difference in focus which again is something that I wouldn't worry about.

I have been loving my K-3iii but there I went from a K-3 and K-3ii so the better noise and dynamic range and type 3 astrotracer were the biggest features I was after and those haven't disappointed when doing astrophotography.

Peka · 09-15-2022, 01:19 PM - **1 Like**

I agree with UncleVanya: i have had a look with my usual PT tool and the main difference is a different White Balance. The K70 picture shows a yellow trend. Otherwise, the brightness is slightly darker with the K3 III, which is not a default, but just a different sensor, different softwares, etc. Finally, I don't see the issue with noise.
I have a K3 III. I have noticed a more accurate autofocus with the latest firmware updates.
I can also happen that the AF fine adjustment for a glass is varying with the body.
It seems that it is mainly a different rendering on a RAW that needs anyway to be treated to get the final result.
Hope it helps you to get back confidence in your new tool.

Oldbayrunner · 09-16-2022, 02:15 AM

^^^^^^ Spot on with what I see....... You can't just buy a new camera, especially if your going from a beginner model to a flagship or any camera and out the gate expect the same results as your older one. It takes a little time to get used to your new one and then you'll see noticeable difference usually for the better.

sungibr · 09-16-2022, 12:59 PM

My hunch is Picture Profiles are diferente. K70 seems to be Bright and K3 appears to be Natural.

**mikesbike** · 09-16-2022, 05:16 PM

Originally posted by Fogel70

From the data in the images you use different metering modes and auto vs manual white balance. That can maybe make the difference

K3III - Center weighted metering and auto WB. Center weight metering put priority on what it meter in the center, and if that is bright other parts of the image will be underexposed.
K70 - Multi segment metering and manual WB. Multi segment will evaluate the metering over the whole scene and it may explain why the K70 images are brighter.

Try use multi segment metering and same manual WB on both.

I cannot see these posted examples. All I get when I click on this link is a google help page about updating my browser and operating system for google drive, which I'm not interested in doing. I usually have no trouble seeing the posted photos from others. However, the info as seen above by Fogel70 indicates to me, these differences in settings between the two cameras would likely account for the differences in stated outcomes.

Also, the mode selected on the Mode dial can be important, especially if setting it to the green "Auto" mode, which could make quite a difference, as the camera then selects among many settings for exposure, white balance, and which image-processing category among the Custom Image options, doing all this on its own without even indicating much of what it is doing. So it is best not to use this mode at all, unless handing the camera to someone who lacks camera knowledge so they can take a shot or two with you in it, while most controls will be disabled, preventing their accidentally engaging them in a way that could ruin the shot.

MaineNative · 09-16-2022, 06:16 PM

I ran into a problem when I had the AE linked to the AF point. I was getting dark and poor quality pictures.

On the Still Image menu (camera icon), go to menu 2 for Exposure Setting and check Link AE and AF Point. If it is turned On, try turning it Off. I found the exposure was better with this turned off.

Spotter51 · 09-26-2022, 01:27 PM

Originally posted by MaineNative

I ran into a problem when I had the AE linked to the AF point. I was getting dark and poor quality pictures

Yes, been there, done that. Not good, because it kind of overrides the matrix-metering totally.

Lloyd_Christmas · 10-07-2022, 10:52 AM

Try setting it to take photos in LV with touch screen. Also using electronic shutter. It's a game changer!

zapp · 10-16-2022, 12:32 AM

Let’s turn around the question. If you expect to get visibly better results in this scene comparing K3iii to K70, the answer is no. Maybe lens performance is maxed out here and pixel count cannot prevail. Anyways, pixel count will not show much difference comparing the two. For me K3iii is a speed monster in Pentax land. High ISO should shine as well and the viewfinder is worth a million. My K1 with larger pixel count on larger sensor only wins w.r.t. resolution in “slow” photography and the availability of dedicated DA* lenses.
Keep K3iii and enjoy the features around the sensor. Make f/5.6 comparison shots of different ISO and compare details. The new camera should be better, but not by a huge margin.

09-16-2022, 05:16 PM	#26
mikesbike Site Supporter Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Southeastern Michigan Posts: 4,549	Originally posted by Fogel70 From the data in the images you use different metering modes and auto vs manual white balance. That can maybe make the difference K3III - Center weighted metering and auto WB. Center weight metering put priority on what it meter in the center, and if that is bright other parts of the image will be underexposed. K70 - Multi segment metering and manual WB. Multi segment will evaluate the metering over the whole scene and it may explain why the K70 images are brighter. Try use multi segment metering and same manual WB on both. I cannot see these posted examples. All I get when I click on this link is a google help page about updating my browser and operating system for google drive, which I'm not interested in doing. I usually have no trouble seeing the posted photos from others. However, the info as seen above by Fogel70 indicates to me, these differences in settings between the two cameras would likely account for the differences in stated outcomes. Also, the mode selected on the Mode dial can be important, especially if setting it to the green "Auto" mode, which could make quite a difference, as the camera then selects among many settings for exposure, white balance, and which image-processing category among the Custom Image options, doing all this on its own without even indicating much of what it is doing. So it is best not to use this mode at all, unless handing the camera to someone who lacks camera knowledge so they can take a shot or two with you in it, while most controls will be disabled, preventing their accidentally engaging them in a way that could ruin the shot. Last edited by mikesbike; 09-16-2022 at 05:31 PM.

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09-15-2022, 06:47 AM - 3 Likes	#16
Fogel70 Pentaxian Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Stockholm, Sweden Photos: Albums Posts: 3,062	From the data in the images you use different metering modes and auto vs manual white balance. That can maybe make the difference K3III - Center weighted metering and auto WB. Center weight metering put priority on what it meter in the center, and if that is bright other parts of the image will be underexposed. K70 - Multi segment metering and manual WB. Multi segment will evaluate the metering over the whole scene and it may explain why the K70 images are brighter. Try use multi segment metering and same manual WB on both.

09-15-2022, 06:56 AM	#17
sbc Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2008 Photos: Albums Posts: 357	Maybe try the Green Auto mode for a few photos? If they turn out better, then perhaps it is some settings that are changed accidentally.

09-15-2022, 07:58 AM	#18
termy Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2019 Posts: 1,154	Originally posted by Fogel70 From the data in the images you use different metering modes and auto vs manual white balance. That can maybe make the difference K3III - Center weighted metering and auto WB. Center weight metering put priority on what it meter in the center, and if that is bright other parts of the image will be underexposed. K70 - Multi segment metering and manual WB. Multi segment will evaluate the metering over the whole scene and it may explain why the K70 images are brighter. Try use multi segment metering and same manual WB on both. Was wondering about metering modes as well. I have seen photographers who shoot everything using the so-called "multi zone metering" and then wondering why images came up not what they expecting / hoping. Sadly, when i do get to chat with them, they Then start wondering why am i so "obsessed" (so to speak) with worrying / putting thought into picking different metering modes for different stuffs. Cuz although they don't get what they expect / hope for, their thinking / approach to this, their "solution", is, you guessed it, "well, is ok, i can adjust lots of stuffs in post processing".

09-15-2022, 08:01 AM	#19
repaap Pentaxian Join Date: Oct 2010 Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 6,242	Yeah, I had also a look of your photos from K-3III and K-70. Also those in extra folders. I'd say that the key is those WB and metering settings. So many things which can set things wrong. You should perhaps avoid AWB or as said before, use multi auto WB, it depends. But best way to achieve consistent result is fixed WB depending where you are, in, out, tungsten... or kelvin, like K5000 (that and shooting RAW should you want to change that in post). Second thing is the metering mode. I have AE linked with focus point when I meter it, but it might still need to be changed for some circumstances. Also I'm mostly using spot metering with 'green button'. what you should have when you are comparing pictures side to side in order to see the differences, is to have them at excatly same settings. It could be easier to see the difference, if there will be any. Then you could concentrate on other things...like AF consistency 'n things like that. I have K-3III, and what I did notice very clearly compared to original K-1 was that colours are much more 'correct' with K-3III even in mixed light. one more thing what does come to my mind is that have you checked NR settings for you K-70 and K-3III. There are multiple settings for NR in K-3III. As this is latest version of accelerator, baked in NR is less than what it is in K-70. Just some things you might want to check. The thing with these 'flagships' is that there are a lot what you can adjust. Depending of how much you want to do in post. Still many things that you can't switch off/on by default. That and more ways to controll your camera, sturdyness etc. So it is also more demanding... hope that this did help. edit: and please, update your cameras FW, especially if you will be using it. There are many fixed things with bugs, but also how camera will actually function, accuracy etc...

09-15-2022, 08:41 AM	#20
Larrymc Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Mississippi, USA Posts: 5,251	I pretty much agree with what others have said in their evaluation of the images, the Mk III images look much less dull. What you are hearing with your Sigma lens mounted is a normal sound when certain lens (KAF and KAF3) are mounted, my limited lens all make the same sound when mounted on the Mk III. The only lens I own that doesn't make the sound is my 55-300 PLM which is a KAF4 mount lens. You need to stop worrying about the camera and learn to use it properly and set it up right it is a much more sophisticated camera and takes a lot of effort to use to good effect, but you will be rewarded. The little K-70 is a good camera but not in the same league as the Mk III. Hang in there the Mk III takes a bit of effort to come to grips with.

09-15-2022, 08:56 AM	#21
luftfluss Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: NJ Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 11,619	I opened both files of the doll (tiger?) with an older version of Adobe Camera RAW - it does not support K-3 III - and I can see that the K-70 image is warmer and more vibrant. The focus points are different. The K-3 III image is more "back focused", leading the image to appear softer. The overall brightness of both images is pretty similar.

09-15-2022, 09:31 AM	#22
MossyRocks Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Minnesota Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,982	Originally posted by Mooncatt Is it possible the ISO scale is different with the different sensors? I.e. ISO 100 on of sensor being the same as ISO 200 on a different sensor, meaning the settings aren't really the same. Kinda spit balling here since I don't own either camera, but it's a factor I've heard about when comparing ISO's between brands and wondered if it's much of a factor within a single brand. From what I have seen over the years and generations of cameras this seems to be a no. There is some variation in sensor response color, and other thigns but nothing huge and a proper exposure with one camera and set of settings would produce more or less the same image with a different camera and same set of settings. Originally posted by Velocidodo Here's a link to a folder on my google drive. ON the monitor I am currently on the images look similar enough. The white balance in the K-3iii looks better but other than that I'm not really seeing much difference. The closeups on the nose of the critter don't really show noise. Apart from the white balance the only difference I notice in the nose closeups is a slight difference in focus which again is something that I wouldn't worry about. I have been loving my K-3iii but there I went from a K-3 and K-3ii so the better noise and dynamic range and type 3 astrotracer were the biggest features I was after and those haven't disappointed when doing astrophotography.

09-15-2022, 01:19 PM - 1 Like	#23
Peka Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2020 Location: Alsace Posts: 36	I agree with UncleVanya: i have had a look with my usual PT tool and the main difference is a different White Balance. The K70 picture shows a yellow trend. Otherwise, the brightness is slightly darker with the K3 III, which is not a default, but just a different sensor, different softwares, etc. Finally, I don't see the issue with noise. I have a K3 III. I have noticed a more accurate autofocus with the latest firmware updates. I can also happen that the AF fine adjustment for a glass is varying with the body. It seems that it is mainly a different rendering on a RAW that needs anyway to be treated to get the final result. Hope it helps you to get back confidence in your new tool.

09-16-2022, 02:15 AM	#24
Oldbayrunner Pentaxian Join Date: Mar 2013 Posts: 1,665	^^^^^^ Spot on with what I see....... You can't just buy a new camera, especially if your going from a beginner model to a flagship or any camera and out the gate expect the same results as your older one. It takes a little time to get used to your new one and then you'll see noticeable difference usually for the better.

09-16-2022, 12:59 PM	#25
sungibr Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Sao Paulo Photos: Albums Posts: 149	My hunch is Picture Profiles are diferente. K70 seems to be Bright and K3 appears to be Natural.

09-16-2022, 06:16 PM	#27
MaineNative Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2017 Photos: Gallery Posts: 280	I ran into a problem when I had the AE linked to the AF point. I was getting dark and poor quality pictures. On the Still Image menu (camera icon), go to menu 2 for Exposure Setting and check Link AE and AF Point. If it is turned On, try turning it Off. I found the exposure was better with this turned off.

09-26-2022, 01:27 PM	#28
Spotter51 Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2021 Location: Helsinki Posts: 40	Originally posted by MaineNative I ran into a problem when I had the AE linked to the AF point. I was getting dark and poor quality pictures Yes, been there, done that. Not good, because it kind of overrides the matrix-metering totally.

10-07-2022, 10:52 AM	#29
Lloyd_Christmas Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 458	Try setting it to take photos in LV with touch screen. Also using electronic shutter. It's a game changer!

10-16-2022, 12:32 AM	#30
zapp Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 2,385	Let’s turn around the question. If you expect to get visibly better results in this scene comparing K3iii to K70, the answer is no. Maybe lens performance is maxed out here and pixel count cannot prevail. Anyways, pixel count will not show much difference comparing the two. For me K3iii is a speed monster in Pentax land. High ISO should shine as well and the viewfinder is worth a million. My K1 with larger pixel count on larger sensor only wins w.r.t. resolution in “slow” photography and the availability of dedicated DA* lenses. Keep K3iii and enjoy the features around the sensor. Make f/5.6 comparison shots of different ISO and compare details. The new camera should be better, but not by a huge margin.