[kypfer]

Thank you, that explains it very well and is very clear! I appreciate it. I see now that it actually adds just one button push to the procedure, not complicated at all. Thank you for those references to the User Manual. I had seen the information contained on p. 182, but there it refers to the DOF preview and it is not explicit about what happens when you do it. Just curious, does DOF preview do the same thing as AE-L (in this context), or something different?

I don't have a *istDS2 specifically, so there's a slight risk things might be different, but with my cameras the DOF preview does just that, it provides a depth-of-field preview in the viewfinder for as long as you hold the switch in position.
It may also show a suggested (preferred) exposure reading and/or compensation in the viewfinder, but I it doesn't actually changes the shutter speed.
On later cameras the DOF switch can be configured to provide either optical depth-of-field in the viewfinder or Digital Preview on the rear screen, but this isn't an option on the *istDS2.
The AE-L button, on the other hand, closes the aperture just briefly to read the light but it then also changes the camera setting.
The two functions are similar in operation, but achieve different purposes, so best considered separately to prevent confusion
Once you get used to it, it really does become second nature quite quickly, but I still rely on my "F A S T" mantra … just in case

[Mark DeB]

I don't have a *istDS2 specifically, so there's a slight risk things might be different, but with my cameras the DOF preview does just that, it provides a depth-of-field preview in the viewfinder for as long as you hold the switch in position.
It may also show a suggested (preferred) exposure reading and/or compensation in the viewfinder, but I it doesn't actually changes the shutter speed.
On later cameras the DOF switch can be configured to provide either optical depth-of-field in the viewfinder or Digital Preview on the rear screen, but this isn't an option on the *istDS2.
The AE-L button, on the other hand, closes the aperture just briefly to read the light but it then also changes the camera setting.
The two functions are similar in operation, but achieve different purposes, so best considered separately to prevent confusion
Once you get used to it, it really does become second nature quite quickly, but I still rely on my "F A S T" mantra … just in case

Thank you, and, again, thanks to all who replied.

Not sure why, but the stop-down (AE-L) method doesn't give me the same shutter speed as aperture priority (Av), at f/8. I set the lens at A, dial to Av, dial in f/8.0, and point the camera at a fairly solid gray patch, and it gives me 1/180 sec. I turn the dial to M, turn the aperture ring to 8, and press AE-L, and it gives me 1/60. I have the ISO entered as 200 (not AUTO). I am using center weighted metering for both. I do have a KatzEye screen instead of the screen that originally came with the camera. At f/1.4 (wide open), the two procedures give me the same shutter speed. I'm not sure why at f/8 the two shutter speeds aren't the same, unless the KatzEye is messing things up (and does so differentially, stopped down vs. wide open). Any idea? Thanks!

p.s. If readers are wondering why I am doing this when I have an A lens, it's because I'm thinking of buying an M lens and I'm experimenting, to see what's involved.

[kypfer]

Thank you, and, again, thanks to all who replied.

Not sure why, but the stop-down (AE-L) method doesn't give me the same shutter speed as aperture priority (Av), at f/8. I set the lens at A, dial to Av, dial in f/8.0, and point the camera at a fairly solid gray patch, and it gives me 1/180 sec. I turn the dial to M, turn the aperture ring to 8, and press AE-L, and it gives me 1/60. I have the ISO entered as 200 (not AUTO). I am using center weighted metering for both. I do have a KatzEye screen instead of the screen that originally came with the camera. At f/1.4 (wide open), the two procedures give me the same shutter speed. I'm not sure why at f/8 the two shutter speeds aren't the same, unless the KatzEye is messing things up (and does so differentially, stopped down vs. wide open). Any idea? Thanks!
p.s. If readers are wondering why I am doing this when I have an A lens, it's because I'm thinking of buying an M lens and I'm experimenting, to see what's involved.

Differences with using Av with a stopped down lens and the AE-L button in Manual mode have been noted … I continue to use the AE-L button and continue to get good results, therefore I see no reason to try it any other way
As to the differences you're experiencing between Av and Manual with the lens set in "A" or not, I can't explain … are the nett results (the actual images taken) wildly different? Maybe it's just that a camera with the capability to use an "A" lens isn't designed to use that lens in "non-A" mode … I've never tried.
I've also seen reference to after-market screens messing things up … they may improve manual focussing (though what's wrong with the green hexagon in the viewfinder I can't understand) but they certainly do seem to affect the metering, so you're possibly a bit out on a limb without an original screen fitted.

[house]

I'm not sure what the hangup is. I deviate from a neutral exposure by changing shutter speed after pressing the green button all the time.

Of course, we all have to but it's not a very nice workflow when shooting manual. It's more like a slow av mode.

With an slr you can (often) quickly scan the scene and se how the dynamic range of the scene falls by pointing at shadows and highlights. You then also have immediate visual feedback when changing settings. None of my Pentax dslr's K-1, K-3II, K-5 work as fluidly with old manual glass. With contemporary lenses in manual mode they work as I like them to work.

Taking a reading with dof preview is better but not great because you have no visual feedback when changing settings. You have to memorize reading and count clicks/shutter speed/iso increments.

[pschlute]

I set the lens at A, dial to Av, dial in f/8.0, and point the camera at a fairly solid gray patch, and it gives me 1/180 sec. I turn the dial to M, turn the aperture ring to 8, and press AE-L, and it gives me 1/60

I do have a KatzEye screen instead of the screen that originally came with the camera.

Open aperture metering and stop-down metering, although you would expect to give the same result, may differ. The Focus screen is designed to transmit light based on open aperture reading. When you ask it to do so on a stopped down lens the result can be different. Ask any user of the later K10D what that camera was like with stop down metering and you will get a negative response.

The third part screen may be your issue, as this differs substantially from the standard screen

Best approach is to look at the histogram and adjust from there.

[pschlute]

None of my Pentax dslr's K-1, K-3II, K-5 work as fluidly with old manual glass

Sir, the reason for this is because the lenses were manufactured approximately 40 years ago, and the cameras at the earliest 12.

Many of us, including myself have no problem working with old glass on modern DSLR cameras but there are compromises you must make if you wish to do so.

If you are not prepared to accept a slower workflow, don't use old glass. It really is that simple.

[house]

If you are not prepared to accept a slower workflow, don't use old glass. It really is that simple.

I am "prepared to accept it" but also prepared to comment on how its "not the same as on a super program" in a thread titled "why not the same as on Super Program". I'm also prepared to articulate why the Pentax implementation of using vintage glass isn't great. Clearly Pentax also thinks it can be improved because they have already taken steps with the K-3 III.

Perhaps you aren't prepared to read opinions and discussions about Pentax gear on a Pentax forum?

[jcdoss]

...Clearly Pentax also thinks it can be improved because they have already taken steps with the K-3 III.

Can you enlighten me a little? What's new and different on the K-3 mIII?

[pschlute]

I am "prepared to accept it" but also prepared to comment on how its "not the same as on a super program" in a thread titled "why not the same as on Super Program". I'm also prepared to articulate why the Pentax implementation of using vintage glass isn't great. Clearly Pentax also thinks it can be improved because they have already taken steps with the K-3 III.

Perhaps you aren't prepared to read opinions and discussions about Pentax gear on a Pentax forum?

Try using Nikon or Canon film lenses on their recent DSLR's. Impossible.

[Ian Stuart Forsyth]

Try using Nikon or Canon film lenses on their recent DSLR's. Impossible.

Any Nikon DSLR bodies that have the coupler in the body work fine and any lenses that are too old to use can be adapted rather quickly it took only 15min to convert my 105 2.5 to work with the coupler.

This allows the user to use the full function of the camera including all flash functions

[pschlute]

Then I stand corrected. Is it the same for Canon ? I was under the impression they had changed the mount a number of times.

[Ian Stuart Forsyth]

Then I stand corrected. Is it the same for Canon ? I was under the impression they had changed the mount a number of times.

Sorry not much of a Canon fan

[kypfer]

Can you enlighten me a little? What's new and different on the K-3 mIII?

With the K-3iii one can use any K-mount lens in Av (and some other modes) … it's done by having the camera close down the aperture and take a meter reading immediately before releasing the shutter. The camera recognises that a "non-A" lens is fitted and reacts accordingly
Not quite a new concept, Fujica did it with screw-mount lenses on their AX-5 back in the '80's, but a refreshing bit of backward compatibility in this increasingly "update and throw away" world

"The PENTAX K-3 Mark III allows AE photography at the closed-down aperture for M-series lenses and lenses that previously could be used only in open-aperture shooting."
see :- Photo-shooting Process | PENTAX K-3 Mark III | RICOH IMAGING

[Just1MoreDave]

Thank you, and, again, thanks to all who replied.

Not sure why, but the stop-down (AE-L) method doesn't give me the same shutter speed as aperture priority (Av), at f/8. I set the lens at A, dial to Av, dial in f/8.0, and point the camera at a fairly solid gray patch, and it gives me 1/180 sec. I turn the dial to M, turn the aperture ring to 8, and press AE-L, and it gives me 1/60. I have the ISO entered as 200 (not AUTO). I am using center weighted metering for both. I do have a KatzEye screen instead of the screen that originally came with the camera. At f/1.4 (wide open), the two procedures give me the same shutter speed. I'm not sure why at f/8 the two shutter speeds aren't the same, unless the KatzEye is messing things up (and does so differentially, stopped down vs. wide open). Any idea? Thanks!

p.s. If readers are wondering why I am doing this when I have an A lens, it's because I'm thinking of buying an M lens and I'm experimenting, to see what's involved.

The meter might be changing modes on you. If you have selected matrix metering, once you move the lens aperture ring off A, the camera sneaks into center-weighted.

[Mark DeB]

Differences with using Av with a stopped down lens and the AE-L button in Manual mode have been noted … I continue to use the AE-L button and continue to get good results, therefore I see no reason to try it any other way
As to the differences you're experiencing between Av and Manual with the lens set in "A" or not, I can't explain … are the nett results (the actual images taken) wildly different? Maybe it's just that a camera with the capability to use an "A" lens isn't designed to use that lens in "non-A" mode … I've never tried.
I've also seen reference to after-market screens messing things up … they may improve manual focussing (though what's wrong with the green hexagon in the viewfinder I can't understand) but they certainly do seem to affect the metering, so you're possibly a bit out on a limb without an original screen fitted.

Thanks for your thoughts about that. To answer your question, to my eye, the results are pretty much what you would expect with the difference in shutter speeds, like a stop and a half overexposed. In any case, you and all who replied have enlightened me, and I very much appreciate it! Happy Thanksgiving!


Mark