[scc]

The only caveat is that you could end up in dropping the LX to the K1 mk II.

[pres589]

I would only put the M42 adapter on the M42 lens you want to convert, vs. leaving it in the camera, as it's going to be much more hassle to remove when you don't want to use an M42 lens on that camera body. 3rd party M42 adapters are actually better for this vs. the official Pentax adapter and much much cheaper.


The "fun" of modern Pentax k-mount cameras is that the mount is not going to read the aperture ring position automatically; they removed that years ago, making the user either stop down via the green button on the back, or effectively adjust ISO in post processing, or both. I like using both myself when using glass like what you've said you own on my digital body. It sounds like more of a hassle than it is once you do it a few times.


Get a decent macro lens in the 50 to 105mm focal length range and your K-1 can form the basis of a digital copying workflow for when you get film developed.

[btnapa]

Any suggestions for a model?

@UncleVanya makes an excellent suggestion. I will add the Fuji X-T1 (or X-T2) as an alternative. It is APSc but it offers dials that are similar to film cameras. I have owned Pentax and Fuji at the same time. Pentax for still images and the Fuji for occasional videos. I now shoot with a Sony A7RIV mainly for its mega resolution. Once you get used to the dials and the buttons, Pentax K1, ergonomically, is the king over anything else I have ever shot witth. I would still say go with the Fuji if you want to get a feel for a film like digital camera.

[pres589]

I find, with my Fuji X-H1 and adapted glass, that life is so much easier if I just leave the ISO and shutter speed in automatic modes. With my K-5II I don't because I can't. I think the K-1 or a similar Pentax body is in some ways more like shooting with a camera like an LX. I do agree that ergonomics with Pentax, as well as clarity & ease of use of the menus and buttons, seems second to none.


I'd stick with a Pentax digital body for the needs and wants mentioned by the original poster of this thread.


My 2 cents.

[AstroDave]

s weird as it may sound, I believe that by buying the K-1 and using it side-by-side with my LX, I will get there sooner than if I stuck with my original plan of shooting film exclusively to learn. It worked in theory, but in practice I seem to posses a block that won't let me take the chances with the film camera. I suspect this is because the film and developing is expensive and inconvenient to obtain. I think my resistance will diminish as I become more confident (enter K-1).

I think this method will serve you well. I got my first Pentax DSLR (a K100D) when I was taking a university B&W film class, and shooting the assignments with my ME Super. Thus, my lenses (the standard 28 / 50 /135 set) were readily interchangeable. I used the K100D to get my exposure correct (probably cheating a bit?!), which then allowed me more room for artistic experimentation with the ME Super for our various assignments without having to shoot a wide range of exposures to make sure I had the right (or very close) exposure for the film.

Worked like a charm - I got an A in a class with a bunch of MUCH younger students (by about 40 years). I took two more courses from the same professor (digital this time, and upgrading as I went to the K10D and K20D). He and I hit it off well (we are about the same age), and after the third class, he drafted me to join the faculty and teach "Intro to Digital Photography" as a part-timer! He knew I had been a Community College professor (of physics and astronomy), so I guess he figured I knew how to run a class, and knew enough photography!!

[btnapa]

so I guess he figured I knew how to run a class, and knew enough photography!!

Fantastic story. Thank you for sharing. I sat in art classes in Boston almost 40 years ago. I was older than the average student by six or seven years and I can identify with your story. Most teachers thought I was a spy on behalf of board of education to see how they were conducting their classes. Only after a few classes and my attendance and doing the home works that they realized I wasn't a spy!! My photography journey started with a borrowed K1000 as I could not afford to buy a camera. A summer job and savings allowed me to buy my first MX which I loved. My digital photography journey starts much later and never stopped.

[builttospill]

The suggestions here are great, but the K-1 isn't the cheapest way to learn how to use an LX. May I suggest a few other methods?

Shadow a professional photographer who uses film and ask them questions. Another option would be to join a local film photography club. The LX is a very respected camera and should get some interest from others wanting to help you learn. Lastly, if digital bodies are the way you want to learn, I'd recommend an inexpensive used K10D. The K10D was the Pentax flagship from 2006 to 2008, is simple to use, reliable, and will give you what you need. The only challenge would be the K10D is not full frame, but you can deal with this easily enough with framing your composition between bodies. All lenses you own, and any others with an aperture ring would work perfectly on both bodies.

Your choice to buy a K-1 will serve you well. I have both the K-1 and the LX, as well as many other bodies. If you have questions, there are many here who are happy to help.

[GUB]

Update: I found a K-1 Mk II camera in mint-condition close to home at what I think was a great bargain, though certainly not cheap ($1000 with a few extras and less than 20,000 shutter count). After reading about the K-1, I will be purchasing an M42 to K adapter for more flexibility with future (past) lenses. Based on some of the responses here, I briefly considered buying a cropped sensor camera because they were much cheaper, but I decided that the full-frame would serve me better because the focal points would match the LX.

Thanks everyone for your help! I look forward to sharing my journey (and asking a bunch of beginner questions).

---------- Post added 03-26-23 at 07:39 AM ----------



I love and appreciate your contrarian suggestion

This was my idea behind the LX purchase, but due to having too much on my plate already, I can't commit to learning to develop my own film or building a dark room right now, on top of learning photography. Once, I am comfortable shooting film and consistently (or at least occasionally) capture interesting photos, I plan to do as you suggested.

As weird as it may sound, I believe that by buying the K-1 and using it side-by-side with my LX, I will get there sooner than if I stuck with my original plan of shooting film exclusively to learn. It worked in theory, but in practice I seem to posses a block that won't let me take the chances with the film camera. I suspect this is because the film and developing is expensive and inconvenient to obtain. I think my resistance will diminish as I become more confident (enter K-1).

Congratulations on your purchase - that is very much the best case scenario.
I came from the days of film and understand how hard it is to get a learning curve out of film considering the delay between shooting and viewing.
As you move forward I wonder what you will eventually gravitate to.
As a bit of a film sceptic but with an utter passion for legacy lenses I suspect the K-1 is going to be the one that produces rewards for you.

[mikesbike]

Update: I found a K-1 Mk II camera in mint-condition close to home at what I think was a great bargain, though certainly not cheap ($1000 with a few extras and less than 20,000 shutter count).

At that price and shutter count, it seems like a bargain to me! And of course not actually "cheap", but to get even a higher quality APS-C former flagship in fine condition, which I always advocate when buying used, it would not be really "cheap" anyway. I would likewise suggest putting off getting an M42 adapter. Better to add what you need as your experience dictates what those needs will be. Congrats on such a find! I wonder what those "few extras" are?

---------- Post added 03-26-23 at 05:14 PM ----------

Thanks everyone for your help! I look forward to sharing my journey (and asking a bunch of beginner questions).

You are very welcome, and don't hesitate to ask away. We would be glad to have you share your photographic journey. While getting into a structured class can be a good idea, if you can fit your own schedule to theirs, it will ultimately be your own active picture-taking that will lead your way. Experience is the best teacher, and we don't mind giving free help in your doing this on your own time schedule, and at your own pace.

I shot exclusively with film for over 30 years. When I started, there were no interchangeable lens cameras with auto anything. The common point-and shoot cameras back then simply had fixed FL lenses, fixed apertures, and fixed shutter speeds, with instructions as to daylight use, or to use a flash bulb, and how far away a subject has to be.

"Serious" SLR IL cameras were all manual-only for focusing and setting exposure via the camera's built-in light meter, which was the cutting edge advancement. The technology then was also good for learning, due to the lack of automation. Then came auto-exposure in the form of Aperture Priority, now called "Av" (Aperture value) where you set the aperture via the lens aperture ring, while the camera in response sets the shutter speed for a "correct" exposure according to the camera's light-meter reading. Then came full Program auto-exposure, where the camera sets both automatically. Then came autofocus (AF). I welcomed all of these advancements. I did not get into digital until 2006, and then continued simultaneously with film for a number of years more, before digital reached the level where there were clear advantages and no disadvantages.

But through my experience, I could more easily recognize how and when these auto functions would likely not be best, especially under what conditions the camera's meter would be fooled, and not provide a good exposure from its reading. It is in recognizing such matters in advance, then putting the camera's available controls to use for adjustments, that a good outcome can be had.

First thing to do with a used camera is usually to do a reset to factory spec, in case the original owner has established some setting or other that would now be unwanted.

Using the lenses you now have on the K-1 II, you will need to put the mode dial to Manual Mode. Point the camera to get the framing you want of your scene, then to get a "proper" exposure according to the reading of the camera's light meter, hit the green button and there will appear a shutter speed already set by the camera. Although set to Manual Mode, this is actually AV- Aperture priority auto-operation. Unlike your LX, you cannot set to Manual Mode and get a visual reading by the camera's light meter, to then determine and set your own aperture AND shutter speed. So it is quite different than the way I learned photography, a large part of that being the ability to recognize the conditions under which the camera's meter can be fooled, and how to override its recommended exposure to set a corrected value, and for certain effects you are trying to achieve. It can be part of that process as well as an education, to be ABLE to point the camera around a scene you are confronting and get visual meter-readings as you go! Especially when switching to spot-meter readings. You could do just that with your LX. But trying that with one of your lenses on the K-1 II will give NO indicator for visual meter readings, just with the green button providing shutter-speed readings only. You can use the LX in AV mode and get the same, but this is not full Manual operation.

However, there IS a way to establish full Manual Mode with both cameras. You'd need a lens that has an aperture ring, but one that has the A setting. You can then get full metering readouts on both cameras. I have one to suggest- the FA 28mm f/2.8 AL lens, which is also AF capable. It would simultaneously provide a significantly wider angle FOV than your 35mm lens., thus adding to the range of your kit. 28mm is a favorite among photographers for general usage. It is an oldie but very goodie, providing excellent imaging, sharp results edge-to-edge even wide open! It is small and easy-carrying on your K-1 II. So you could switch it back and forth between both cameras functioning fully in the Manual Mode, but with the ring being set on "A" when on the K-1 II, so you set your aperture with the camera's on-body control. As good as it is, this lens can be found in top condition for a very reasonable cost.

[leekil]

I find, with my Fuji X-H1 and adapted glass, that life is so much easier if I just leave the ISO and shutter speed in automatic modes. With my K-5II I don't because I can't.

What do you mean, you can't on the K-5 II? You mean it doesn't have that functionality (it actually does), or that you can't bring yourself to do it?

[pres589]

Adjust the aperture ring on a fully manual lens on the K-5 II and don't change ISO or shutter speed and see how great it is at compensating in any mode. Mirrorless just makes this easier and the exposure triangle is handled more successfully in automatic modes vs. the DSLR which is only seeing light with the lens wide open until the time of shutter accutation.

[UncleVanya]

Adjust the aperture ring on a fully manual lens on the K-5 II and don't change ISO or shutter speed and see how great it is at compensating in any mode. Mirrorless just makes this easier and the exposure triangle is handled more successfully in automatic modes vs. the DSLR which is only seeing light with the lens wide open until the time of shutter accutation.

To be fair that’s because the mirrorless is using stopped down metering. You can disable the lens automatic aperture opening and get the same result from the dslr on Av mode like the m42 experience. But stopped down is harder to focus on an ovf.

[Duncan-Jacob]

Get a decent macro lens in the 50 to 105mm focal length range and your K-1 can form the basis of a digital copying workflow for when you get film developed.

I hadn't even considered this benefit. Thanks, I'll keep it in mind as I get closer to film processing.

I will add the Fuji X-T1 (or X-T2)

My buddy owns an X-T1. I love the look and feel of it and had considered it initially, but the full frame Pentax won my heart.

I think this method will serve you well. I got my first Pentax DSLR (a K100D) when I was taking a university B&W film class, and shooting the assignments with my ME Super.

Thanks for sharing your story. It sounds like you used the DSLR exactly how I am envisioning doing with mine. Coincidentally, I am currently in school myself, at north of 40 so I can relate to the age gap, but unfortunately not for photography.

First thing to do with a used camera is usually to do a reset to factory spec, in case the original owner has established some setting or other that would now be unwanted.

I will be sure to do this when I take delivery of it in a few days. Thanks!

I have one to suggest- the FA 28mm f/2.8 AL lens, which is also AF capable. It would simultaneously provide a significantly wider angle FOV than your 35mm lens

I was confused when I read this and and went back and read my initial post. Apparently, I typed the wrong lens; I do not own a 35 mm. It's a SMC (K) 28 mm f3.5. I guess my brain was mush from looking at so many camera and lenses, my mistake.

Other than a tripod, I think I'm done spending money on gear until I start producing some photos (keyword is think), but I will definitely consider getting (or borrowing) a lens like the one you mentioned to play with the auto mode/readouts. I haven't even tried the LX in auto yet, but like you said, having the built-in light meter is great! The fact that the K-1 won't do this in manual was one of the reasons I had considered switching to the M42 mount. If I understand it correctly, I would be able to use the K-1 aperture readout, but wouldn't be able to take full-advantage of the LX's light meter. So maybe not worth it. Besides I already have a great collection of lenses that far exceed my skill level.

As many of you have mentioned, I suspect that I will end up really enjoying the K-1. If (hopefully) that is the case, then it I'm sure that I will slowly begin to acquire some more advanced lenses for it. Ideally, I would end up carrying both and not having to swap lenses all the time, but for now this will have to do. Figuring it all out is part of the fun anyhow.

Thanks again!

[mikesbike]

I do not own a 35 mm. It's a SMC (K) 28 mm f3.5. I guess my brain was mush from looking at so many camera and lenses, my mistake.

In that case, you might consider getting a NEW Pentax HD FA 35mm f/2 lens. (HD stands for High Definition) This is an outstanding lens, especially for its relatively modest cost and with a modest size for having such a large aperture of f/2. And unlike most lenses, it delivers fine quality even wide open at f/2! A very few years back, it was upgraded from the original version (same optics) to having the more advanced HD coatings, with improved definition by eliminating or reducing the effects of flair that occur under many circumstances .. There are also anti-smudge coatings for easier housekeeping. The body design was also improved.

35mm is an even more versatile FL than one of 28mm as it is closer to a "normal" FL yet still wide angle- but not real wide, so distant objects are not too distant. This lens is capable of bringing equal image quality on par with very expensive lenses, yet on a poorer person's budget. It has other advantages over average lenses. To give you an idea, its f/2 aperture can let twice the light into the lens from the same scene as would a lens having f/2.8 as its maximum aperture, and 4x that of a lens having a max aperture of f/4. This provides a greater range of shutter speeds at the same ISO setting, and more control over how much is clear and what is blurred in the background or foreground. An excellent all around lens, and it would provide you with all exposure options, including full Manual mode.

[btnapa]

I love the look and feel of it and had considered it initially, but the full frame Pentax won my heart.

We are comparing apples and oranges here. X-T1 or the entire XT line is no match for Pentax K1. I thought you wanted to practice with an SLR like camera. Only Fuji XT line and one Nikon body are up to the task of "SLR Like" look and feel. Although the interface, color science and the whole experience of the XT line is totally different from any digital Pentax. You learn on Fuji and get used to it. You have to start all over again on a K1. If your heart is set on a K1 to practice, then go for it. It is a beast of a camera competing with medium format cameras in quality, and other DSLR camera costing much more.