pinout of remote shutter plugs

alohadave · 02-03-2009, 11:04 AM

Originally posted by kenyee

any idea if the signal goes the other way?
I.e., if the camera is focusing, does it short the middle and common?
Wondering if it's an easy way to connect an AF assist lamp...

It should be easy enough to check. Put a multimeter on the wires coming from the jack.

If the wires are shorted together, you'll get a resistance of 0 (checking Ohms), or using the diode checker mode, you'll hear a beep if they are shorted together.

MidnightCommando · 03-03-2009, 12:59 AM

Originally posted by kenyee

any idea if the signal goes the other way?
I.e., if the camera is focusing, does it short the middle and common?
Wondering if it's an easy way to connect an AF assist lamp...

I'd say the easiest way to do that would be a pass-through connector on the TTL hotshoe... I haven't a pinout yet but i am considering this too.

If you could hijack the pin that tells the flash to provide AF assist, which is most likely the bottom left pin (don't take my word for it as i have only a vague idea), you might be able to do this. Only problem is that this means two cords, which I guess runs counter to your purpose

I'm going to build myself one of these remote trigger babies on Thursday, I'm wondering how much voltage and current runs across the switch, because i'm thinking of using one of the switches that has a tiny LED in it to let you know it's on... if I had that for bulb mode it would be terribly useful, and it would only require about 1.75V iirc.

Ideas? (btw, of course I will show the unit when i've done it

)

kenyee · 03-03-2009, 07:26 AM

Originally posted by MidnightCommando

I'm going to build myself one of these remote trigger babies on Thursday, I'm wondering how much voltage and current runs across the switch, because i'm thinking of using one of the switches that has a tiny LED in it to let you know it's on...

It's easier to buy one of those wireless fleabay shutter releases that has bulb mode. It's only $20 and has a nice 200' range.
If I still had mine, I'd measure the voltages for you. I suspect they short two pins together like a flash to get it to trigger though..

MidnightCommando · 03-03-2009, 09:45 AM

Originally posted by kenyee

It's easier to buy one of those wireless fleabay shutter releases that has bulb mode. It's only $20 and has a nice 200' range.
If I still had mine, I'd measure the voltages for you. I suspect they short two pins together like a flash to get it to trigger though..

I'd rather build it myself and be assured of the quality, know that if something goes wrong it's my own stupid fault.

I appreciate the offer of goodwill - i'd put the info up myself if I had a working multimeter xD

Thanks.

It's just a matter of how much voltage runs across those pins. It would be minute but might just be enough.

**Lowell Goudge** · 03-03-2009, 03:29 PM

I have already used an optical remote flash trigger to make a lightning trigger, and am in the process of making a radio trigger, driven from the earpiece of an FRS radio to give up to 3KM (line of sight) remote trigger

eclipsed450 · 03-03-2009, 04:47 PM

Originally posted by Lowell Goudge

I have already used an optical remote flash trigger to make a lightning trigger, and am in the process of making a radio trigger, driven from the earpiece of an FRS radio to give up to 3KM (line of sight) remote trigger

mind sharing any of the info on how these went together??

**Lowell Goudge** · 03-03-2009, 05:18 PM

Originally posted by eclipsed450

mind sharing any of the info on how these went together??

Lightning trigger is made from a optical flash slave.

I found a scrap flash (i wanted the shoe contact) and took only the shoe off the flash.

Connecting the collar (AF) to the shaft (common) leaves the camera on at all times, giving best shutter response, turn AF off.

Connect the tip to the flash contact, and the shoe contact to the common.

Radio trigger not finished yet so can;t describe full circuit..

Blackross · 06-22-2009, 07:19 PM

well the wiring at least... go buy a nokia phone wired headset.
break open the headset and there you go, a premade wiring assembly.

the phono jack fits into the K10 nicely and the two separate wires from each the speaker and the microphone can be wired as switches instead.

one is the shutter the other is auto-focus.

silverflower · 06-23-2009, 04:38 AM

First some advices from my best friend Justin Case (pun) for those attempting to make and use a home made shutter cable release:
- If you have no background in wiring, an auxiliary for a expensive camera it is not a good start, buy one.
- I found a diagram of a fellow pentaxian that is wrong, with ground in the middle, the correct one it's like Canon's.
- People who made such a thing say they use a cheap headphone for cable and plug. Yes, but it is not the usual widely used jack/plug used on
soundcards, desktop speakers and their headphones that have 3.5mm. They say that, but I repeat, the proper stereo plug have 2.5mm diameter, is thinner.
- A long unshielded cable or worst, a lack of good ground contact, could induce dangerous voltage in the camera's imputs or "moire" from mobile phones.
- Do not use electric soldering tools when plug is in camera's jack.
- It's better that if cable's lenght is more than, let say 30cm to put an extension cord that is permanently anchored of tripod (with loop to rotate if needed).
In this way you have two advantages:
a. If you or somebody else stumble on the cable, it's just unplugging from extension and the tripod didn't fall.
b. You do not risk to bend or destroy the camera's jack or door, could happen even when you let cable release hanging.

- When you disconnect AF from shutter half-press, the remote AF didn't work either, just mettering.

- Now comes a little idea, if someone else had it before I didn't find it. Please show paragraph below to a electronist friend if needed.
The two imputs of shutter and AF have a resistive impedance of 1.5Kohm and an internal positive voltage of 3.2-3.6V on each. It is sensitive enough to trigger when drop in voltage to a Si directly conducted dioda value. I think you can put an (n) MOSFET with Sources at ground and Drains at the imputs. The gate(s) with a capacitor of *100nF and a *10Mohm resistor grounded could be linked then to a touch sensor. One slighty finger touch would trigger the shutter or AF.

For me that would be extremely easy to try, the single concern I have is amplified transitory signals. I'm not trying this, at least few years from now; for me the camera was too expensive to expose it at the slightiest risk. If someone need that and dare to try please note that was only an theoretical project and I'm not advising anyone to do that.

Blue · 06-23-2009, 05:26 AM

Originally posted by silverflower

. . .
- I found a diagram of a fellow pentaxian that is wrong, with ground in the middle, the correct one it's like Canon's.
- People who made such a thing say they use a cheap headphone for cable and plug. Yes, but it is not the usual widely used jack/plug used on
soundcards, desktop speakers and their headphones that have 3.5mm. They say that, but I repeat, the proper stereo plug have 2.5mm diameter, is thinner.
-

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/436250-post5.html

I don't know if this is the diagram that you are referring to, but the middle is not ground. This is dc circuit. All the switches are doing is completing circuits. With exception of the bulb, those switches are momentary.

Quote:

**lawsonstone** · 06-23-2009, 10:05 AM

This could also be used to create a sound-release, i.e. instead of a switch, some sort of sound detection hardware. I'd love to get things like bullets emerging from gun barrels and the like.

But alas, I can't solder anything very well.

silverflower · 06-24-2009, 12:04 AM

Originally posted by Blue

I don't know if this is the diagram that you are referring to, but the middle is not ground. This is dc circuit. All the switches are doing is completing circuits. With exception of the bulb, those switches are momentary.

- Yes, this one is the standard good one. I didn't find anymore that link, I think it was a personal blog, not here on pentaxforums, it's my fault I was not more precise. It has pictures of components with numbers coresponding on diagrams, also mixed up.

06-22-2009, 07:19 PM	#23
Blackross New Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: alpharetta, ga. Posts: 3	Cheap and easy source for the parts... well the wiring at least... go buy a nokia phone wired headset. break open the headset and there you go, a premade wiring assembly. the phono jack fits into the K10 nicely and the two separate wires from each the speaker and the microphone can be wired as switches instead. one is the shutter the other is auto-focus.

06-23-2009, 04:38 AM	#24
silverflower Inactive Account Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Romania Posts: 26	This shutter needs a very delicate touch First some advices from my best friend Justin Case (pun) for those attempting to make and use a home made shutter cable release: - If you have no background in wiring, an auxiliary for a expensive camera it is not a good start, buy one. - I found a diagram of a fellow pentaxian that is wrong, with ground in the middle, the correct one it's like Canon's. - People who made such a thing say they use a cheap headphone for cable and plug. Yes, but it is not the usual widely used jack/plug used on soundcards, desktop speakers and their headphones that have 3.5mm. They say that, but I repeat, the proper stereo plug have 2.5mm diameter, is thinner. - A long unshielded cable or worst, a lack of good ground contact, could induce dangerous voltage in the camera's imputs or "moire" from mobile phones. - Do not use electric soldering tools when plug is in camera's jack. - It's better that if cable's lenght is more than, let say 30cm to put an extension cord that is permanently anchored of tripod (with loop to rotate if needed). In this way you have two advantages: a. If you or somebody else stumble on the cable, it's just unplugging from extension and the tripod didn't fall. b. You do not risk to bend or destroy the camera's jack or door, could happen even when you let cable release hanging. - When you disconnect AF from shutter half-press, the remote AF didn't work either, just mettering. - Now comes a little idea, if someone else had it before I didn't find it. Please show paragraph below to a electronist friend if needed. The two imputs of shutter and AF have a resistive impedance of 1.5Kohm and an internal positive voltage of 3.2-3.6V on each. It is sensitive enough to trigger when drop in voltage to a Si directly conducted dioda value. I think you can put an (n) MOSFET with Sources at ground and Drains at the imputs. The gate(s) with a capacitor of 100nF and a 10Mohm resistor grounded could be linked then to a touch sensor. One slighty finger touch would trigger the shutter or AF. For me that would be extremely easy to try, the single concern I have is amplified transitory signals. I'm not trying this, at least few years from now; for me the camera was too expensive to expose it at the slightiest risk. If someone need that and dare to try please note that was only an theoretical project and I'm not advising anyone to do that.

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02-03-2009, 11:04 AM	#16
alohadave Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Quincy, MA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,024	Originally posted by kenyee any idea if the signal goes the other way? I.e., if the camera is focusing, does it short the middle and common? Wondering if it's an easy way to connect an AF assist lamp... It should be easy enough to check. Put a multimeter on the wires coming from the jack. If the wires are shorted together, you'll get a resistance of 0 (checking Ohms), or using the diode checker mode, you'll hear a beep if they are shorted together.

03-03-2009, 12:59 AM	#17
MidnightCommando New Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Sydney Posts: 12	Originally posted by kenyee any idea if the signal goes the other way? I.e., if the camera is focusing, does it short the middle and common? Wondering if it's an easy way to connect an AF assist lamp... I'd say the easiest way to do that would be a pass-through connector on the TTL hotshoe... I haven't a pinout yet but i am considering this too. If you could hijack the pin that tells the flash to provide AF assist, which is most likely the bottom left pin (don't take my word for it as i have only a vague idea), you might be able to do this. Only problem is that this means two cords, which I guess runs counter to your purpose I'm going to build myself one of these remote trigger babies on Thursday, I'm wondering how much voltage and current runs across the switch, because i'm thinking of using one of the switches that has a tiny LED in it to let you know it's on... if I had that for bulb mode it would be terribly useful, and it would only require about 1.75V iirc. Ideas? (btw, of course I will show the unit when i've done it )

03-03-2009, 07:26 AM	#18
kenyee Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Boston, PRofMA Photos: Albums Posts: 3,026	Originally posted by MidnightCommando I'm going to build myself one of these remote trigger babies on Thursday, I'm wondering how much voltage and current runs across the switch, because i'm thinking of using one of the switches that has a tiny LED in it to let you know it's on... It's easier to buy one of those wireless fleabay shutter releases that has bulb mode. It's only $20 and has a nice 200' range. If I still had mine, I'd measure the voltages for you. I suspect they short two pins together like a flash to get it to trigger though..

03-03-2009, 09:45 AM	#19
MidnightCommando New Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Sydney Posts: 12	Originally posted by kenyee It's easier to buy one of those wireless fleabay shutter releases that has bulb mode. It's only $20 and has a nice 200' range. If I still had mine, I'd measure the voltages for you. I suspect they short two pins together like a flash to get it to trigger though.. I'd rather build it myself and be assured of the quality, know that if something goes wrong it's my own stupid fault. I appreciate the offer of goodwill - i'd put the info up myself if I had a working multimeter xD Thanks. It's just a matter of how much voltage runs across those pins. It would be minute but might just be enough.

03-03-2009, 03:29 PM	#20
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,891	I have already used an optical remote flash trigger to make a lightning trigger, and am in the process of making a radio trigger, driven from the earpiece of an FRS radio to give up to 3KM (line of sight) remote trigger

03-03-2009, 04:47 PM	#21
eclipsed450 Guest	Originally posted by Lowell Goudge I have already used an optical remote flash trigger to make a lightning trigger, and am in the process of making a radio trigger, driven from the earpiece of an FRS radio to give up to 3KM (line of sight) remote trigger mind sharing any of the info on how these went together??

03-03-2009, 05:18 PM	#22
Lowell Goudge Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Toronto Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,891	Originally posted by eclipsed450 mind sharing any of the info on how these went together?? Lightning trigger is made from a optical flash slave. I found a scrap flash (i wanted the shoe contact) and took only the shoe off the flash. Connecting the collar (AF) to the shaft (common) leaves the camera on at all times, giving best shutter response, turn AF off. Connect the tip to the flash contact, and the shoe contact to the common. Radio trigger not finished yet so can;t describe full circuit..

06-23-2009, 05:26 AM	#25
Blue Moderator Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Florida Hill Country Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,377	Originally posted by silverflower . . . - I found a diagram of a fellow pentaxian that is wrong, with ground in the middle, the correct one it's like Canon's. - People who made such a thing say they use a cheap headphone for cable and plug. Yes, but it is not the usual widely used jack/plug used on soundcards, desktop speakers and their headphones that have 3.5mm. They say that, but I repeat, the proper stereo plug have 2.5mm diameter, is thinner. - https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/436250-post5.html I don't know if this is the diagram that you are referring to, but the middle is not ground. This is dc circuit. All the switches are doing is completing circuits. With exception of the bulb, those switches are momentary. Quote:

06-23-2009, 10:05 AM	#26
lawsonstone Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Wilmore, KY Posts: 376	This could also be used to create a sound-release, i.e. instead of a switch, some sort of sound detection hardware. I'd love to get things like bullets emerging from gun barrels and the like. But alas, I can't solder anything very well.

06-24-2009, 12:04 AM	#27
silverflower Inactive Account Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Romania Posts: 26	Originally posted by Blue I don't know if this is the diagram that you are referring to, but the middle is not ground. This is dc circuit. All the switches are doing is completing circuits. With exception of the bulb, those switches are momentary. - Yes, this one is the standard good one. I didn't find anymore that link, I think it was a personal blog, not here on pentaxforums, it's my fault I was not more precise. It has pictures of components with numbers coresponding on diagrams, also mixed up.