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01-07-2009, 05:22 PM   #1
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what to do if 1.01 doesn't fix MLU hotpixels on K20D?

So I bit the bullet and bought a K20D but it already had firmware 1.01 on it, and the hotpixels do show up and move around quite a bit with or without MLU on

Even in 2sec MLU, they're evident and some also show up when resizing the image. I've just shot plain JPG so far.
Do RAW converters automatically strip hot pixels?

An example of hot pixels showing up is below.
When the image is resized on screen, the hot pixels sometimes are visible, but uploading it to the site reduces it so they don't show up.

Attached Images
   
01-07-2009, 06:11 PM   #2
RaduA
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Well, Ken first of all congrats on your new camera!

You should do a "pixel mapping" the procedure is described in the manual at page 235 and you should get rid of that (those) pixel(s).

I am curious about your first impressions comparing K20D with K10D.

Regards,
Radu
01-07-2009, 08:19 PM   #3
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Thanks, Radu.
I was cynical, but running "pixel mapping" off the setup menu seems to have fixed the hot pixels, though I have to do some more tripod w/ long shutter time tests before I'll call it fixed. I guess folks who get a new K20D should run the pixel mapping thing first before taking any pictures

I need a bit more time before writing up my thoughts on this since the first thing I did was check for viewfinder alignment and hot pixels

Some early thoughts in no particular order:
- I don't really notice the shutter sound difference from the K10D when taking photos...I only hear the beep and vaguely remember the click. I get the sense the K10D shutter vibrated the body w/ more authority so the K10D felt more "solid" to me :-)
- JPEGs out of the camera definitely seem softer than the K10D's, but I'm still using default settings. I'm not sure if this is because of the stronger AA filter yet...need more experimenting
- the images have a nice smoothness about them...more so than the K10D's.
- I'm not sure if my Sigma 17-70 has enough resolution for the sensor (see sharpness comment above)
- I'm going to lose the PC port plug (one big reason I upgraded to the K20D was to use the PC port)
- ISO800 looks like ISO400 on the K10D
- ISO1600 looks like ISO800 on the K10D (too noisy for me to use comfortably)
- there's a lot more chroma noise than the K10D and I'm still sticking to my opinion that this is what's giving it a "film" look
- LiveView is way too fuzzy and really needs a histogram and actual pixel level resolution to be useful...I don't see using it much and am glad I didn't sell my angle finder
- the door latches being bigger doesn't make much difference to me, but the AF-S switch is much better
- focus does seem a little faster than the K10D and I had one of the later K10D's (halfway through the manufacturing run)
01-08-2009, 04:19 AM   #4
RaduA
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You're welcome, Ken!

Mine had no (visible) bad pixels so I never employed the pixel mapping myself. About the softness I guess you'll just have to mount one of your 2 primes from the list of your gear and reconsider a bit . I had FA50 myself and a short run with it will probably change your opinion about how sharp the K20D could be. Regardind the Sigma zoom some folks swear that on Nikon 12Mp it doesn't do as well as on 10Mp sensor. I am sure others are plain happy with it so you take your own conclussions after you'll experience the primes on K20D. BTW, I never shoot jpeg so I can't judge on that either.

All in all I wish you the best light my friend!
Radu

QuoteOriginally posted by kenyee Quote
Thanks, Radu.
I was cynical, but running "pixel mapping" off the setup menu seems to have fixed the hot pixels, though I have to do some more tripod w/ long shutter time tests before I'll call it fixed. I guess folks who get a new K20D should run the pixel mapping thing first before taking any pictures

I need a bit more time before writing up my thoughts on this since the first thing I did was check for viewfinder alignment and hot pixels

Some early thoughts in no particular order:
- I don't really notice the shutter sound difference from the K10D when taking photos...I only hear the beep and vaguely remember the click. I get the sense the K10D shutter vibrated the body w/ more authority so the K10D felt more "solid" to me :-)
- JPEGs out of the camera definitely seem softer than the K10D's, but I'm still using default settings. I'm not sure if this is because of the stronger AA filter yet...need more experimenting
- the images have a nice smoothness about them...more so than the K10D's.
- I'm not sure if my Sigma 17-70 has enough resolution for the sensor (see sharpness comment above)
- I'm going to lose the PC port plug (one big reason I upgraded to the K20D was to use the PC port)
- ISO800 looks like ISO400 on the K10D
- ISO1600 looks like ISO800 on the K10D (too noisy for me to use comfortably)
- there's a lot more chroma noise than the K10D and I'm still sticking to my opinion that this is what's giving it a "film" look
- LiveView is way too fuzzy and really needs a histogram and actual pixel level resolution to be useful...I don't see using it much and am glad I didn't sell my angle finder
- the door latches being bigger doesn't make much difference to me, but the AF-S switch is much better
- focus does seem a little faster than the K10D and I had one of the later K10D's (halfway through the manufacturing run)


01-08-2009, 08:42 AM   #5
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Ironically, with the K10D, I used the FA50 and Sigma 17-70 to take photos and couldn't see a difference (similar apertures/focal lengths) so the FA50 has been mostly gathering dust except for a few low-light no-flash situations I had last year :-)
I'll give the FA50 and 77Ltd (new toy) and 105 a try and write up a more detailed report.

I also didn't bump my fine sharpness up a little (it's now set at +2)..that seems to have helped, but it's still not as sharp as I've seen from the K10D when pixel peeped. I wanted to give JPG a try since someone said it's a lot better than the K10D's JPG output :-)
01-08-2009, 09:23 AM   #6
RaduA
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QuoteOriginally posted by kenyee Quote
Ironically, with the K10D, I used the FA50 and Sigma 17-70 to take photos and couldn't see a difference (similar apertures/focal lengths) so the FA50 has been mostly gathering dust except for a few low-light no-flash situations I had last year :-)
I'll give the FA50 and 77Ltd (new toy) and 105 a try and write up a more detailed report.

I also didn't bump my fine sharpness up a little (it's now set at +2)..that seems to have helped, but it's still not as sharp as I've seen from the K10D when pixel peeped. I wanted to give JPG a try since someone said it's a lot better than the K10D's JPG output :-)
Like I said put those primes on and we'll talk latter ! It's nothing unusual for two lenses to perform more or less the same as long as both can outresolve the sensor. Also Sigma and FA50 have the same "warm" rendering (that I personally don't like too much) but FA77 will give you another image all together.

Have fun!
Radu
01-08-2009, 09:28 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by kenyee Quote
Do RAW converters automatically strip hot pixels?
Some do, some don't.

Adobe Camera Raw does. Haven't seen a hot pixel since I tried out The Gimp / ufraw.
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