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01-22-2009, 12:20 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by MrApollinax Quote
Your fake omnibounce intrigues me good sir. Please post a picture and share!
$2.62 shipped!
Buy one here =D
DealExtreme: $2.62 Camera Flash Diffuser Dome for Canon 380EX / Nikon SB-24/25/26



01-22-2009, 12:34 PM   #17
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holy crap! the price couldn't be better unless it was free. Did you have to modify it at all to fit your 360?
01-22-2009, 12:46 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by MrApollinax Quote
holy crap! the price couldn't be better unless it was free. Did you have to modify it at all to fit your 360?
i bought it in hopes that it would fit my 540, but the 540 is one strange animal, and i havent found one that fits, so it use it on the 360 with some gaffers tape, the tape adds character

maybe the ones made for 580ex2 fit?
01-22-2009, 01:09 PM   #19
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247nino: did you still need the LED aux light if you used a Pentax flash w/ the built in AF lamp?

01-22-2009, 01:18 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by kenyee Quote
247nino: did you still need the LED aux light if you used a Pentax flash w/ the built in AF lamp?
Only in situations when I'd shoot against the club lighting and faces wouldnt have enough light reflecting back to me. The spot beams on the flashes are actually pretty accurate!

when I shoot slower than 1/15, the light is bright enough to change the color of the images, so I try to keep it off, but when I need it, I just correct WB later. OR I turn it on to focus, turn it off while keeping the shutter half pressed, recompose my shot, and then full press.

Another trick when shooting in darkness, with no other flashlights or ambient light to help focus, and for some reason you have an assistant with you and you're working at night or in the dark; my assistant held my cellphone (AT&T TILT with the LCD on a bright screen) next to my subject's eyes or whatever focal point I'd choose, I'd focus on the phone's screen then recompose.
01-22-2009, 03:03 PM   #21
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While I think the 16-45 is an amazing lens for the price (and even twice the price), I don't like it in low light. 43/1.9 or 77/1.8 otoh...they rock (or 31/1.8 but I never really bonded with that lens). I'd ditch the flash and use fast glass, but I have a *strong* preference to not use flash, especially indoors in public situations.

As for ISO, I routinely shoot 1600 and have no issues with iq. Then again my aesthetic doesn't really require pristine files, so ymmv.
01-22-2009, 04:46 PM   #22
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Hyperfocal Distance

QuoteOriginally posted by quenched Quote
It took me a little while to get the settings to work, i was having lots of very soft focus issues and hunting. Prob due to the F4 16-45 too.
How about setting up at the focal length that you use the most and calculate the hyperfocal distance, set the autofocus on manual and fire away?
As an example, if you set your lens at 16mm, f8 and then set the focus distance to 5.3ft, everything from 2.6 feet to infinity will be in focus. You can pretty much point your camera anywhere and not worry about focus at all. I did this shooting Halloween last year and it works perfectly.
You may want to use some tape to make sure that the focus ring doesn't move.

Here is a link to Depth of Field Master
01-22-2009, 06:01 PM   #23
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The onboard flash is a tool and like any other tool has its limits. Just because it has limits doesn’t mean it has no use. The onboard flash if for no other reason then that it is always with the camera can be very useful but it may need a little help. Yes it is at times a problem to use a flash but not always. It is not as powerful as a bigger hot shoe flash but it may only have to add a little light to improve a photo. I can be used to trigger a bigger flash like a 360 wirelessly that is sitting on the table next to you. It may be nice to be able to always use the light you have using fast lenses and turning up the ISO but have more options is good too. Having a 2.8 lens helps with faster focusing in lower light but using a flash so you can use something like f/4 for better DOF and less critical focusing is good.

The biggest problem to me (other then being on the camera with limited control) is when using bigger lenses you can get a shadow if you to close to the subject from the lens.

This stupid little thing helps with that problem. It is close to the stupidest looking thing (but not the stupidest thing I have ever done with a camera) I have put I on a camera. But it works and it is inexpensive. For up close it softens the flash and just push it over with you finger for longer shots.


Obligatory stupid photo. *ist DS modeling for K20D with 16-50mm and small flash diffuser. Onboard flash with 360 triggered wirelessly next to DS camera.


Obligatory wall photo from about 4 feet with K20D 16-50mm @ f4 with out small flash diffuser showing flash shadow on bottom of frame.


Obligatory different photo from about 4 feet with K20D 16-50mm @ f4 with small flash diffuser showing no flash shadow on bottom of frame.


DAZ

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01-22-2009, 08:42 PM   #24
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I would add to the conversation that a fantastic site for learning how to use on-camera speedlights is planet neil. Neil is professional wedding and portrait photographer out of NYC that does amazing things with on camera flash. I have attended his seminar and read his site regularly. He isn't at all afraid to share his "secrets." Read everything you can find on his site. You won't regret it.

He shoots Canon and Nikon systems so you have to translate their terminology to Pentax terminology, but that is hardly difficult.
01-22-2009, 09:05 PM   #25
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DAZ, What is that thing?
01-22-2009, 09:54 PM   #26
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This is where I got it. OMF1 Sto-Fen Omni-Flip OM-F1 for Digital SLR Camera Pop-Up Flashes.

You may be able to find it cheaper some where other then here but I was getting some other flash stuff so I just added it in.

It is small so I can just throw it in the bag that I take for ever day lenses.

DAZ
01-23-2009, 09:50 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by quenched Quote
I have recently been shooting in a local nightclub, i used the k20d there for the first time last night.

It took me a little while to get the settings to work, i was having lots of very soft focus issues and hunting. Prob due to the F4 16-45 too.

Anyway it appears the on board flash is casting a blob shadow in many of the shots, i dont normally shoot flash and prefer the fast primes when shooting gigs but the club environment needs a zoom honestly.

Anyway Q's are this.

Has anyone else experienced the shadow i speak of?

Does Pentax have a flash set up that is designed especially automated for their cameras or will the old (but very good) Sunpak i have do the job?

IF ANYONE HAS SOME TIPS FOR SHOOTING IN LOW LIGHT WITH THE PENTAX K20 THAT IS UNIQUE/SPECIFIC TO THE MODEL AS OPPOSED TO A GENERAL ISSUE I WOULD VERY MUCH APPRECIATE IT.

Also does the IS system effect IQ if it is on yet there is no camera shake (i have a very steady hand but shoot in very bumpy environments often)

THIS SEEMS LIKE A GREAT LITTLE BODY SO FAR AND IM ENJOYING 'THE CURVE'

Thank You all once more.

The weird blob shaped shadow at the bottom is an issue because the 16-45mm is a weird lens. When you zoom to the wider focal lengths, the front element will extend out. Normally a zoom lens will become physically longer when the focal lengths are getting larger. For this reason, you won't see the blob because even though the lens is getting longer, the frame is getting narrower. But since the 16-45mm gets longer when you go towards the wider end, the 'blob' effect is aggravated by the fact that your frame is wider and the lens is getting longer.

You'll get this shadow with on-board flash even without the hood. On-board flash is only good with this lens from around 28mm to 45mm.

Best solution is forget the on-board flash altogether. I barely ever use it, only if it's a convenience issue and the photo is really just a snap-shot.
01-23-2009, 09:54 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by 247nino Quote

TIPS
heres my old setup

Thanks for the tips man... I'm using similar setup as above. but with less grips.

Does your 16-50 have paint on it?
01-24-2009, 06:57 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by IsaacEastgate Quote
Thanks for the tips man... I'm using similar setup as above. but with less grips.

Does your 16-50 have paint on it?
Gaffer's Tape on the edges of the len's hood, for when it likes to sit on the bar.
And a vinyl .308 Sniper Rifle decal.


glad that you're not using as many grips(me too), its easier on our hands...let me know how everything goes for you!
01-24-2009, 02:10 PM   #30
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is this what you are getting?



this is onboard flash with 18-55 and lens hood.

sorry but Im a bit of a novice at this photography lark
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