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05-25-2009, 01:05 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by er1kksen Quote
I meant the "T" (two-press long exposure) mode, not the intervalometer. I must admit I've never heard of an intervalometer in a film SLR.
The Pentax SV did have a T setting, probably the S1a, S3 etc also.
With the K2, LX etc, you could lock the release in the down position with the release lock. (cover lens, release camera on B, lock release, uncover lens)

For the MX you could get an intervalometer.
The sf series did have an intervalometer back.
The Z1 had one build in, removed in the Z1p.

And not to forget the IR remote, which did have this first press shutter open, second press shutter closed option.

George


Last edited by glasbak; 05-25-2009 at 01:15 PM.
05-25-2009, 05:41 PM   #32
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So, obviously, the K10D is pretty darn good for long exposure (especially in comparison to the K20D). My question: The K200D uses the same sensor... is it as good for long-exposure? Or does the camera not give you that level of control?

Last edited by er1kksen; 05-25-2009 at 05:42 PM. Reason: PUNCTUATION ERROR!
05-26-2009, 02:41 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by glasbak Quote
The Pentax SV did have a T setting
I've made use of the T setting on my SV several times. It is such a handy mode to have I have to wonder why it was not more common.

Nothing beats the good old-fashioned cable release, though.





05-26-2009, 05:15 AM   #34
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So long as exposure is adequate with a lowish ISO, noise-free photos can be produced no matter how long your exposure. So there isn't an intervalometer - to me that ain't a big deal. I have a watch, and for long exposures, clicking the shutter off a few minutes early or later than intended rarely has caused me any problems with exposure results.

I've done several 30-50 minute exposures at ISO 125-320 (on the K10D) with minimally noticeable noise - then again, Photoshop's auto correction was way off in determining adequate exposure, therefore you need to intervene with these types of shots to get the right results.

Trust your light meter! And give long exposures a try, if you're keen.

05-26-2009, 06:30 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by mithrandir Quote
Has anyone tried doing a 9 shot multi-exposure in lieu of a 2 minute timed exposure? Supposedly, the K10D (and I would guess K20D) exhibit less noise in multi-exposure mode.
Some Pentax Multi-Exposure Shots - dslreports.com

Just realized this is an older thread, but oh well. Anyway, that was just a quick test. The gaps in the trails are from dummy me not turning off the long exposure NR.

Last edited by Jodokast96; 05-26-2009 at 06:40 AM.
05-26-2009, 07:35 AM   #36
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My Olympus E330 will do T with wireless remote. It also has shutter speeds down to 60 sec! great feature. Won't give time readout on lcd. Would like that on camera. They may be worried it would cause even more battery drain (not good for looong exposures). Good thing Oly does all this since they left off wired cable release. Bummer. Hope Pentax doesn't do that. (they all ready made a dslr without B). Won't buy a dslr without B setting.
My Canon () EOS 10s film camera has an intravalometer in it. As does my Pentax Pz1. Imagine the top film Minolta Maxxum had one. It had everything else. All these cameras with intravalometer and have never used the function. Must fix that.

ot, the Nikon D40 has an interesting feature. It will let you take any shot in memory and combine it with any other shot as multiple exposure. Brings back the ol' LX feeling. LX is great allowing you to back up and multi expose a frame. No idea why this advanced feature is on the Nikon d40 intro camera.
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05-26-2009, 11:31 AM   #37
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With this remote, you can set the time and let 'er rip. Up to like 99:99:99 hours.

Timer Remote cord for Canon 450D 400D 350D RS-60E3 TCC1 - eBay (item 160336714309 end time Jun-20-09 17:46:00 PDT)
05-29-2009, 03:06 PM   #38
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QuoteOriginally posted by ChipB Quote
I'm not sure (and I don't want to try) but I suspect that a 3 hour exposure with one of todays digital cameras would fry the sensor.
I have tried very long exposures - a few hours, on my K200D . It didn't fry the sensor. But it ran out of battery :-(
I have yet to try again with the battery grip. I don't know if the K200D it's smart enough to switch over to grip power in the middle of an exposure.

If that doesn't work, I may just have to plug it in with the AC/DC adapter I got at radioshack, but that's much less practical .

05-30-2009, 06:59 PM   #39
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QuoteQuote:
except for a very old kodak leaf shutter which had not only Bulb (which really was an air bulb connection to hold the shutter open) and a T setting that functioned as you describe, one activation to open one to close, I have never seen any SLR with this function, going back to my KX.
Since you said "no SLR" and not "no DSLR", I will mention that my last film camera purchased had this with it's IR remote control. Press one button and it took the picture. Press the alternate button and it opened the shutter until you pressed the button again to close it. Most important is that you did not have to keep the remote pointed at the camera for the whole exposure. That is the remote was not a continuous stream. The camera recognized 1 = open 2 = close.
I really wish we could get that as a standard on our DSLR's !!

(Camera was a Minolta low-end Maxim 70, 35mm SLR. )
(With B, M, Tv, Av, picture modes, scenes, P, and customizable P.)

-TomK-
06-01-2009, 06:18 PM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rush2112 Quote
I don't think that is the intent of DLSR manufacturers off hand. It could possibly be that most just haven't got around to doing this yet, or they want to sell more cable releases. I don't honestly know.

I have used the K20 for long exposures and have been very pleased. I typically use ISO 100 for these exposures. I find the long exposure NR in camera to be well designed. Essentially the camera taking a second black frame exposure to use as a mirror to remove only the noise and not crush detail. Initially I turned it off as I prefer to do NR myself, yet the camera does such a good job that I let it do it's job.

Carl
Surely this is a typo Carl. You cannot turn off NR (I think you mean DFS) on the Pentax K20D. And long exposures (8 seconds or more) are very noisy on the K20D, in fact, worse than most DSLRs.

"Well designed" You must be joking? Most K20D will agree that the Samsung's sensor's noise (for long exposures only) is probably the worst of all DSLRs. That is the reason for the forced DFS after any exposure greater than 8 seconds (bulb mode).

Since the K-7 is using a new sensor and electronics, I have high hopes this issue is resolved.
06-01-2009, 06:26 PM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
The real issue with DSLRs I think is battery power. Long exposures use a ton of it, and in reality, I still think a film exposure is probably much better in terms of noise etc, when dealing with deliberately long exposures, except you then have to really consider the differential reciprocity failure of the three colors.
Not just color, monochrome as well.

Long exposures (such as what is done in astronomy) is ultimately best handled with specialized digital cameras with specialized CCDs (or more recently CMOS) images that have larger individual pixels (greater light gathering power) and cooling systems.

As far as long exposures with DSLRs, no one has beaten Canon at this game. It is well known that Astrophotographers have a particular fondness for the Canon xxD line of cameras (i.e. 20D, 30D, 40D, and 50D). In fact, Canon even made a special Astrophotography model called the 40DA (some special features plus no IR filter).

It would be kind of nice if Pentax gave even a tiny bow to astrophotographers; even Nikon has done so.
06-01-2009, 07:02 PM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by Driver3 Quote
With this remote, you can set the time and let 'er rip. Up to like 99:99:99 hours.

Timer Remote cord for Canon 450D 400D 350D RS-60E3 TCC1 - eBay (item 160336714309 end time Jun-20-09 17:46:00 PDT)
I have one of these and I can confirm that it works beautifully!
06-01-2009, 07:27 PM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by pentaxmz Quote
Surely this is a typo Carl. You cannot turn off NR (I think you mean DFS) on the Pentax K20D. And long exposures (8 seconds or more) are very noisy on the K20D, in fact, worse than most DSLRs.

"Well designed" You must be joking? Most K20D will agree that the Samsung's sensor's noise (for long exposures only) is probably the worst of all DSLRs. That is the reason for the forced DFS after any exposure greater than 8 seconds (bulb mode).

Since the K-7 is using a new sensor and electronics, I have high hopes this issue is resolved.
but cant DFS be done after the event? as i posted i lost shots because of it.. (i still got a couple of great very clean shots.. )

but the nikon shooter didnt have to wait.. surely we should have the option!

Thanks

Steve
06-01-2009, 10:10 PM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by 5teve Quote
but cant DFS be done after the event? as i posted i lost shots because of it.. (i still got a couple of great very clean shots.. )

but the nikon shooter didnt have to wait.. surely we should have the option!

Thanks

Steve
Yes DFS is always better to do post production. But don't have that option on the Pentax K20D (on exposures of 8 seconds or more in bulb mode).

Pentax will never allow the DFS to be an option on the K20D because the sensor runs too hot after long exposures. Further more, for star field photography, the K20D sucks miserably because there is so much noise (30 minutes or more) that the automatic DFS actually erases stars from the frame! Sucks, I say!
06-01-2009, 10:30 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by pentaxmz Quote
Yes DFS is always better to do post production. But don't have that option on the Pentax K20D (on exposures of 8 seconds or more in bulb mode).

Pentax will never allow the DFS to be an option on the K20D because the sensor runs too hot after long exposures. Further more, for star field photography, the K20D sucks miserably because there is so much noise (30 minutes or more) that the automatic DFS actually erases stars from the frame! Sucks, I say!
i find it hard to beleive about the sensor temperature? surely if you do a 30 minute exposure followed by a 30 minute dark frame its no different to doing 2 30 minute exposures? therefore temps will be the same? or am i misunderstanding something here? (wouldnt be unusual!)

i guess the tradeoff for low noise in 'normal' pictures is high noise on long exposures

Thanks

Steve
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