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02-02-2009, 06:05 PM   #1
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K20d help?

My brother just purchased a K20D along with the 16-45 F/4 zoom,here is a photo from this setup with the camera in the landscape mode i think?Does this photo look really bad or is it just me?I would expect this to outperform my K100D but his K20D seems nowhere even close to that.Any thoughts from other K20D users would be a great help,perhaps a photo to compare with his.Attachment 27289


Last edited by bschriver11; 09-25-2016 at 06:26 PM.
02-02-2009, 06:51 PM   #2
Ole
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The photo lacks contrast and is also slightly overexposed. I recommed setting contrast to +2 and sharpness to +2 when shooting jpeg's with the K20D.

Last edited by Ole; 02-02-2009 at 06:58 PM.
02-02-2009, 07:15 PM   #3
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It is also backlit, and not a particularly colorful image to start with.
02-02-2009, 07:24 PM   #4
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And the snow is probably wrecking havoc with the light meter... I usually dial up the EV +.5 to +1.5 when shooting a scene with snow...

Pat

02-02-2009, 07:28 PM   #5
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As others said, it is just contrast/exposure issue

I feel lucky in picasa pumps it up ok... but getting it metered right in camera would help.

02-02-2009, 08:01 PM   #6
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Besides the metering and exposure of the picture doesn't it look like it suffers from a lack of sharpness,almost smeary looking on my monitor.Really looks like it has a texture like a canvas print or somethig to that effect?Compared to my K100d with a $20 lens!! http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3516/3181509164_5512d9dea6_b.jpg

Last edited by bschriver11; 02-02-2009 at 08:08 PM.
02-02-2009, 08:18 PM   #7
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Well I have both cams

I have the K100d and the K20d... it is a very different camera/sensor from the K100d. I also usually give my K100d a little contrast boost. The K20d also needs that boost and a slight boost in sharpening if you are comparing Jpeg to jpeg. Or as others have said you can set things punchier and sharper in camera to match the 6mp jpeg from your k100d.

I cant read the exif, so I do not know how it was metered or what the internal settings are, but if you just took the original file, gave it a contrast and sharpening boost it would look ok.
02-02-2009, 11:31 PM   #8
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First of all, congratulations to your brother for picking a great camera and a great lens. They will serve him well, especially as he gets to know the combination.

Everyone has made some valuable contributions to the problem with this picture and Gus did a great job rescuing it from the recycle bin. I have to agree with others that the main problem with the shot is the harsh lighting conditions. Did your brother use his lens hood with this shot--this is the kind of situation where the hood earns its keep. It will minimize all that unwanted light and help you to get nice contrast and sharpness too.

Also, as has been pointed out, you need to post shots with EXIF data intact. This allows us to more easily diagnose various problems which means we have more with which to help you.

Can you go to the original shot and gather all the pertinent EXIF data? Then just write it down and post it to us--then you do not have to upload another pic.

02-05-2009, 11:03 AM   #9
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Hello. I'm new to this forum i started with the MZ-M but recently bouhgt the k20d...I just can't figure out how to adjust the sharpness in camera (with the K20d of course). I know by turning on extended bracketing I can gat variable sharpness per image this way but with out this all metadata states that the image sharpness is set to -1. this must be default but how do I cange it?
02-05-2009, 11:09 AM   #10
Igilligan
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Page 154 of the manual...

Hit the FN button, hit ok... brings up the custom image... sharpness is the S at the bottom.
02-05-2009, 11:44 AM   #11
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well thank you very much, i think i'd looked so much for it that i totally missed it when it was right in front of me! ta.
02-05-2009, 12:01 PM   #12
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well, the first picture has many flaws, none of them due to the equipment used.

- the scenery is badly lit, contains some snow, and is not particularily interesting.

- it is in landscape mode. i have seen for myself that in auto modes, the cameras use some freaky settings.

- a camera and a lens are not enough. you have to use a polariser lens, and some gradual density filters. and a tripod

so, start using Av mode, dial f8-f16 for landscape shooting, iso 100, use a tripod, compensate the exposure by trial and error, and mount a polariser, or a cokin gradual grey+polariser.

always shoot raw and adjust WB, sharpness, saturation, contrast in PP.
02-05-2009, 05:44 PM   #13
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Lots of good advice here.

Another thing to consider is the occasional (or general, depending on your range of subjects) need to expose for the highlights, in order to avoid washing out detail that can add depth and interest to your picture. I find this is best addressed by capturing in raw format, rather than JPEG, even at the lowest compression/highest quality, simply because the compression algorithm in the JPEG processing looks for areas of similar tone and brightness, and flattens them - once lost, the detail's gone forever. What this boils down to is underexposing to some extent, depending on the scene you're confronted with.

This can be tricky, as others have said here and elsewhere, when you're dealing with snow and other large areas of white (a white motorcar's another example that can fool automatic metering by a wide margin). You'll need to take a few shots to get the most appropriate exposure, which of course you can check as you go, with your camera's histogram display.

I don't process in-camera, personally, so I set all capture options to neutral. I leave it to the post-capture processing in CS3. Of course, there are plenty of other software options for doing this, that aren't as costly as CS3.

The main message is: the histogram's your friend. Learn how to use it and your picture-making will improve, at least in terms of efficiency and efficacy. The pictorial content is down to the taker's eye, naturally.
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