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02-16-2009, 02:45 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by drjaxon Quote
The first image is at 1/350 at (I think) f4.0 at ISO 100, d-range switched off.
You can see great detail in the white of the bird, but the head is quite dark.

The 2nd image was taken at 1/90 at (I think) f8 or 11, ISO 200 with d-range switched on. You can see on this one, I got nice color and exposure on the heads, but the white is blown out with little detail. Apparently the EDR did not help here.
You don't say how you metered, but obviously the exposure settings are very different, and of course, the light is quite different too. So I don't think it fair to say the D-range feature didn't help - it's kind of an apples-to-orange comparison.

Should I have underexposed and brightened in PP?
That's pretty much exactly what the D-range feature does for you, although apparently the camera didn't underexpose by enough here - were you using multi-segment metering? But anyhow, sure, you can get more control over the results if you do it yourself. It's certainly *possible* to get detail in both dark and light areas of an object that is in full sunlight. Tougher if the dark part is in deep shadow and the light part is in direct sun.

02-16-2009, 06:18 PM   #17
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Thanks. I usually set to spot meter when I take shots of birds with my long lenses.
02-16-2009, 08:14 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by drjaxon Quote
Thanks. I usually set to spot meter when I take shots of birds with my long lenses.
That's about what it looks like. On the first, you probably spot metered the white of the bird and got it nicely exposed. On th second you probably spot metered the bird on the left - or the water between the birds - and got that nicely exposed, but the bird on the right was much brighter, so no surprise that it overexposed. Using the D-range feature doesn't exempt you from needing to figure out a good basic exposure.

Last edited by Marc Sabatella; 02-17-2009 at 12:58 PM.
02-16-2009, 08:49 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by drjaxon Quote
My K200d (and I think the K20d as well) has the option when setting the ISO to enhance the dynamic range, thus reducing the sensitivity to 200-1600.

My question is, what does enhancing the dynamic range actually do? I read the manual. It vaguely deescribes it as increaasing the ratio of dark to light - what ever that means. When would I idealy use this feature? What advantage or disadvantage does it present to images? I've used it and can't tell any difference.

Could someone please explain to this newby, in layman terms, what dynamic range is, and why and when enhancing it is helpful?
There are some really excellent answers already posted so I will try to give you something a little different.

Like most of the posters have already stated, it is best to stay away from this camera feature if you are seeking the best possible photo.

A better way to pursue enhanced dynamic range, or better known as HDR photos (High Dynamic Range), is to take several photos for every single scene. You will need to experiment with what works best for you, but capturing the same scene at, for example, -2 EV, 0 EV, and +2 EV should give you a nice range.
Contrary to what Marc wrote, you need not worry about exact exposure accuracy when using this method of HDR photography.

Furthermore, although shooting in RAW will always produce superior results, any camera with exposure control is capable of producing HDR photos.

Next, take the photos and plug them into a HDR friendly application such as Photomatix (available as stand-alone or a plug-in for Lightroom, etc.).

When I get home tomorrow evening, I will upload a sample or two done through Photomatrix.


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