[wasim_altaf]

This probably belongs to the "beginner's Q&A" thread, though I wasn't sure if seasoned users frequent that thread. This is my first digital, automatic, auto-focus camera, too, so some questions aren't directly related to k20d, like how to read a histogram, WB, etc. Anyway, I'd appreciate your comments/suggestions/preferences.

- Preferred shooting/image parameters: Default is "Bright," not Normal for some reason.
- Preferred sharpness/saturation/contrast settings for shooting in JPEG.
- Expanded DR: Is it worth it? Can/should it be turned off?
- Is exposure_comp automatic, like auto-iso, say in P or Av mode? Does the sensor need any exposure biasing?

Thanks!

[SpecialK]

This probably belongs to the "beginner's Q&A" thread, though I wasn't sure if seasoned users frequent that thread. This is my first digital, automatic, auto-focus camera, too, so some questions aren't directly related to k20d, like how to read a histogram, WB, etc. Anyway, I'd appreciate your comments/suggestions/preferences.

- Preferred shooting/image parameters: Default is "Bright," not Normal for some reason.
- Preferred sharpness/saturation/contrast settings for shooting in JPEG.
- Expanded DR: Is it worth it? Can/should it be turned off?
- Is exposure_comp automatic, like auto-iso, say in P or Av mode? Does the sensor need any exposure biasing?

Thanks!

When I got my first DSLR (a K100D) I found a halfway decent subject (some shops in a business area) with different colors, etc, and took a series of shots which varied one settng at a time, such as saturation, from the minimum to the maximum. This showed me what the effect of each one was.

I used the "bright" mode at first for a couple weeks (and shot jpg), but changed to "natural" after experiencing some shots where the blue and pink clothing appeared almost neon in intensity. "Bright" increases the saturation by +2 I believe.

I went to the "natural" setting after that. I also eventually started shooting only in RAW, so nearly every in-camera setting is meaningless (except the ISO). They can all be changed after the fact.

I have neglected the "try all the settings" procedure with my K20D. I may do it this weekend.

I've never used the "expanded DR" function.

Exposure compensation is not automatic. The light meter will try to make the image an averaae gray - it is up to you to "compensate" when necessary.

If you do go "RAW", the Pentax provided software is kind of...how should I say...clunky. It works for the basics and is free, but I experienced a lot of slow goiong and reboots...

After 18 months with Pentax software, I went to Adobe Elements v6 (some people think v7 is not so hot) and the difference in use is like night and day. Plus it has the "spot healing" brush to blot out dust spots or other thing and additional editing goodies Pentax does not.

[wasim_altaf]

When I got my first DSLR (a K100D) I found a halfway decent subject (some shops in a business area) with different colors, etc, and took a series of shots which varied one settng at a time, such as saturation, from the minimum to the maximum. This showed me what the effect of each one was.

I used the "bright" mode at first for a couple weeks (and shot jpg), but changed to "natural" after experiencing some shots where the blue and pink clothing appeared almost neon in intensity. "Bright" increases the saturation by +2 I believe.

I went to the "natural" setting after that. I also eventually started shooting only in RAW, so nearly every in-camera setting is meaningless (except the ISO). They can all be changed after the fact.

I have neglected the "try all the settings" procedure with my K20D. I may do it this weekend.

I've never used the "expanded DR" function.

Exposure compensation is not automatic. The light meter will try to make the image an averaae gray - it is up to you to "compensate" when necessary.

If you do go "RAW", the Pentax provided software is kind of...how should I say...clunky. It works for the basics and is free, but I experienced a lot of slow goiong and reboots...

After 18 months with Pentax software, I went to Adobe Elements v6 (some people think v7 is not so hot) and the difference in use is like night and day. Plus it has the "spot healing" brush to blot out dust spots or other thing and additional editing goodies Pentax does not.

The difference between "natural" and "bright," in k20d. appears to be an extra step of saturation setting. I hope the attached pics do upload (still learning the ropes). The "bright" setting is the one with a blueish tint -- not what I saw with my eyes. The "natural" one, ignoring the slight out-of-focus and exposure issue, seems spot on.

I don't mind capturing RAW only, though Adobe software will have to wait. Pentax software can only work on one pic at a time, which is annoying. That's why I'd rather be using in-camera JPEG.