K200D & Vivitar Thyrister 3500

wilkin · 03-09-2009, 06:31 PM

Originally posted by jeffkrol

glad you found something that sort of works for you. The flash shouldn't pre-fire though... that may just be some weird glithc in the 200..what camera mode are you in?

manual mode

Capt22 · 03-09-2009, 09:57 PM

Please forgive me if I am asking the wrong question here or if it is off-topic, but I am interested in knowing more about this combination of equipment. I am new to Pentax DSLR, but I have owned Pentax 35 mm film gear for many years going back into the early 80's so I have some older stuff that I hope to be able to use on my newer equipment.

OK, then it is safe to use this flash unit on the K200D from this discussion. Would that be a fair assumption?

I have a K200d and a Vivitar 3500 AT, but when I measured the trigger voltage, I got a reading higher than the recommended 6 volt limit per the flash compatibility list mentioned on another website somewhere. I think I measured around 10 volts, so I was gun-shy and never put the flash unit on my 200d. Since I only have the camera a little over a month, I was not ready to take the chance. Instead, I have been using an old Pentax AF200T with mixed results. The 3500 would give me bounce capability that the 200 doesn't have, without having to buy a new flash.

Steven7 · 03-09-2009, 10:55 PM

In response to the OP - I have the similar Vivitar 2500 model (same module base), you need to make sure the internal flash isn't set for red-eye. (Flash Mode "Flash On", NOT "Flash On+Red-eye"). The pre-flash you are getting is the red-eye reduction, and of course the flash can't recharge quick enough to re-trigger.

Regards the trigger voltage, I can't recall the exact value but it is between 8.5 and 10v. I've had no problems using this on a K10d. The 6-volt 'limit' is very conservative.

-steve

wilkin · 03-10-2009, 01:39 AM

Originally posted by Capt22

Please forgive me if I am asking the wrong question here or if it is off-topic, but I am interested in knowing more about this combination of equipment. I am new to Pentax DSLR, but I have owned Pentax 35 mm film gear for many years going back into the early 80's so I have some older stuff that I hope to be able to use on my newer equipment.

OK, then it is safe to use this flash unit on the K200D from this discussion. Would that be a fair assumption?

I have a K200d and a Vivitar 3500 AT, but when I measured the trigger voltage, I got a reading higher than the recommended 6 volt limit per the flash compatibility list mentioned on another website somewhere. I think I measured around 10 volts, so I was gun-shy and never put the flash unit on my 200d. Since I only have the camera a little over a month, I was not ready to take the chance. Instead, I have been using an old Pentax AF400T with mixed results. The 3500 would give me bounce capability that the 400 doesn't have, without having to buy a new flash.

theres a guy on Flickr named Opo Terser Flickr: Opo Terser's Photostream
he uses this flash on the K200D and seems to have no problems

Originally posted by Steven7

In response to the OP - I have the similar Vivitar 2500 model (same module base), you need to make sure the internal flash isn't set for red-eye. (Flash Mode "Flash On", NOT "Flash On+Red-eye"). The pre-flash you are getting is the red-eye reduction, and of course the flash can't recharge quick enough to re-trigger.

Regards the trigger voltage, I can't recall the exact value but it is between 8.5 and 10v. I've had no problems using this on a K10d. The 6-volt 'limit' is very conservative.

-steve

I had "Flash On + Red-eye" so thats what explains the extra flash

SOldBear · 03-10-2009, 07:04 AM

Originally posted by Steven7

Regards the trigger voltage, I can't recall the exact value but it is between 8.5 and 10v. I've had no problems using this on a K10d. The 6-volt 'limit' is very conservative.

Same here. My Vivitar 3500 and 283 both measure 9.4V. I've been using them with my K10D without any problem. I've read somewhere (the source seems to be credible) that the limit of the current batch of Pentax DSLRs is 25V.

Originally posted by Steven7

The pre-flash you are getting is the red-eye reduction, and of course the flash can't recharge quick enough to re-trigger.

I think you got it. I didn't think of the silly red-eye reduction setting, simply because I've never used it, even with P&S. It is too annoying.

In light of this, I don't think the OP needs to do any modification to the flash. My Vivitar 3500 is dedicated to Minolta (DM/M on the module) so I did remove the dedicated data pin. But the OP has the Pentax module (DM/P) so it's OK there.

Steven7 · 03-10-2009, 06:56 PM

Glad that helped - it took me a little while to figure out what was going on with the @#$!% flash also!

I re-checked last night, if you are on the auto settings and only need a little fill-flash, you might get away with the pre- and main flash. As more flash power is needed then the recycle time is too long to trigger in time - this is probably why you were sometimes getting the exposure right and other times not.

BTW, I made a mistake with the model number, it's actually the Vivitar 3700, swivel + bounce, without the zoom head. The module (base) is the same. It's a great flash for AUD $20 ! I'm also using the omni-bounce diffuser (was expensive - cost me as much as the flash unit ! )

-Steve

03-09-2009, 09:57 PM	#17
Capt22 Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: PA Photos: Gallery Posts: 40	Please forgive me if I am asking the wrong question here or if it is off-topic, but I am interested in knowing more about this combination of equipment. I am new to Pentax DSLR, but I have owned Pentax 35 mm film gear for many years going back into the early 80's so I have some older stuff that I hope to be able to use on my newer equipment. OK, then it is safe to use this flash unit on the K200D from this discussion. Would that be a fair assumption? I have a K200d and a Vivitar 3500 AT, but when I measured the trigger voltage, I got a reading higher than the recommended 6 volt limit per the flash compatibility list mentioned on another website somewhere. I think I measured around 10 volts, so I was gun-shy and never put the flash unit on my 200d. Since I only have the camera a little over a month, I was not ready to take the chance. Instead, I have been using an old Pentax AF200T with mixed results. The 3500 would give me bounce capability that the 200 doesn't have, without having to buy a new flash. Last edited by Capt22; 03-10-2009 at 07:07 PM.

03-09-2009, 10:55 PM	#18
Steven7 Inactive Account Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Perth, Australia Posts: 25	K200D & Vivitar Thyrister 3500 In response to the OP - I have the similar Vivitar 2500 model (same module base), you need to make sure the internal flash isn't set for red-eye. (Flash Mode "Flash On", NOT "Flash On+Red-eye"). The pre-flash you are getting is the red-eye reduction, and of course the flash can't recharge quick enough to re-trigger. Regards the trigger voltage, I can't recall the exact value but it is between 8.5 and 10v. I've had no problems using this on a K10d. The 6-volt 'limit' is very conservative. -steve

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03-09-2009, 06:31 PM	#16
wilkin Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Richmond 里士满 Va Posts: 161 Original Poster	Originally posted by jeffkrol glad you found something that sort of works for you. The flash shouldn't pre-fire though... that may just be some weird glithc in the 200..what camera mode are you in? manual mode

03-10-2009, 01:39 AM	#19
wilkin Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Richmond 里士满 Va Posts: 161 Original Poster	Originally posted by Capt22 Please forgive me if I am asking the wrong question here or if it is off-topic, but I am interested in knowing more about this combination of equipment. I am new to Pentax DSLR, but I have owned Pentax 35 mm film gear for many years going back into the early 80's so I have some older stuff that I hope to be able to use on my newer equipment. OK, then it is safe to use this flash unit on the K200D from this discussion. Would that be a fair assumption? I have a K200d and a Vivitar 3500 AT, but when I measured the trigger voltage, I got a reading higher than the recommended 6 volt limit per the flash compatibility list mentioned on another website somewhere. I think I measured around 10 volts, so I was gun-shy and never put the flash unit on my 200d. Since I only have the camera a little over a month, I was not ready to take the chance. Instead, I have been using an old Pentax AF400T with mixed results. The 3500 would give me bounce capability that the 400 doesn't have, without having to buy a new flash. theres a guy on Flickr named Opo Terser Flickr: Opo Terser's Photostream he uses this flash on the K200D and seems to have no problems Originally posted by Steven7 In response to the OP - I have the similar Vivitar 2500 model (same module base), you need to make sure the internal flash isn't set for red-eye. (Flash Mode "Flash On", NOT "Flash On+Red-eye"). The pre-flash you are getting is the red-eye reduction, and of course the flash can't recharge quick enough to re-trigger. Regards the trigger voltage, I can't recall the exact value but it is between 8.5 and 10v. I've had no problems using this on a K10d. The 6-volt 'limit' is very conservative. -steve I had "Flash On + Red-eye" so thats what explains the extra flash

03-10-2009, 07:04 AM	#20
SOldBear Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Alameda, CA Posts: 3,206	Originally posted by Steven7 Regards the trigger voltage, I can't recall the exact value but it is between 8.5 and 10v. I've had no problems using this on a K10d. The 6-volt 'limit' is very conservative. Same here. My Vivitar 3500 and 283 both measure 9.4V. I've been using them with my K10D without any problem. I've read somewhere (the source seems to be credible) that the limit of the current batch of Pentax DSLRs is 25V. Originally posted by Steven7 The pre-flash you are getting is the red-eye reduction, and of course the flash can't recharge quick enough to re-trigger. I think you got it. I didn't think of the silly red-eye reduction setting, simply because I've never used it, even with P&S. It is too annoying. In light of this, I don't think the OP needs to do any modification to the flash. My Vivitar 3500 is dedicated to Minolta (DM/M on the module) so I did remove the dedicated data pin. But the OP has the Pentax module (DM/P) so it's OK there.

03-10-2009, 06:56 PM	#21
Steven7 Inactive Account Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Perth, Australia Posts: 25	Glad that helped - it took me a little while to figure out what was going on with the @#$!% flash also! I re-checked last night, if you are on the auto settings and only need a little fill-flash, you might get away with the pre- and main flash. As more flash power is needed then the recycle time is too long to trigger in time - this is probably why you were sometimes getting the exposure right and other times not. BTW, I made a mistake with the model number, it's actually the Vivitar 3700, swivel + bounce, without the zoom head. The module (base) is the same. It's a great flash for AUD $20 ! I'm also using the omni-bounce diffuser (was expensive - cost me as much as the flash unit ! ) -Steve