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03-15-2009, 08:46 AM   #1
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K10D settings for wildlife-recommendations ?

I have a K10D and a 55-300 mm Pentax zoom. I'm out quite a bit, winter and summer down Boreal Forest trails and out on the bald prairie taking pictures of flora and fauna. I take pictures of birds (Pileated woodpeckers, Owls, etc.) , deer and other mammals when I can find them...and I generally find them about 25 - 30 feet away.

I usually put my meter on spotmeter, use my shutter priority setting at about 1/640th for wing blur control and running action and put my automatic focus on continuous.

I don't worry about a lot of depth of field, as my subjects are primarily animals/birds and I want to isolate them in the pictures.

I've generally happy with the results, but wonder if any have recommendations for different settings...which may improve the end result.

03-15-2009, 08:54 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by lesmore49 Quote
I have a K10D and a 55-300 mm Pentax zoom. [...] I usually put my meter on spotmeter, use my shutter priority setting at about 1/640th for wing blur control and running action and put my automatic focus on continuous. I don't worry about a lot of depth of field, as my subjects are primarily animals/birds and I want to isolate them in the pictures. I've generally happy with the results, but wonder if any have recommendations for different settings...which may improve the end result.
Well, I'm more likely to do things a bit differently:

1. I usually meter by multisegment (dialing in exposure comp + or - depending on the situation).

2. Sometimes I use program (especially in bright light and/or when I can't concentrate on exposures), or I use aperture priority (to keep the aperture at a "sharp-as-possible" f/8 to f/10 or so - I need the ability to crop quite a bit on occasion), or sometimes, if the light is pretty steady (both in direction and intensity), I'll switch over to manual exposure and avoid the exposure comp juggling altogether.

3. If the subject is sitting still in a tree, say, I'll switch to AF-S, but if the subject is moving, I'll switch to AF-C.

4. If the subject is moving around (especially a flying bird), I'll switch to auto focus point, but if the subject can be centered reliably, I'll switch to center focus point.

Last edited by fwcetus; 03-15-2009 at 09:00 PM.
03-17-2009, 06:23 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by fwcetus Quote
Well, I'm more likely to do things a bit differently:

1. I usually meter by multisegment (dialing in exposure comp + or - depending on the situation).

2. Sometimes I use program (especially in bright light and/or when I can't concentrate on exposures), or I use aperture priority (to keep the aperture at a "sharp-as-possible" f/8 to f/10 or so - I need the ability to crop quite a bit on occasion), or sometimes, if the light is pretty steady (both in direction and intensity), I'll switch over to manual exposure and avoid the exposure comp juggling altogether.

3. If the subject is sitting still in a tree, say, I'll switch to AF-S, but if the subject is moving, I'll switch to AF-C.Good point...I think I'll try that, although a Northern Hawk Owl I took yesterday was sitting nicely...then suddenly took off.

4. If the subject is moving around (especially a flying bird), I'll switch to auto focus point, but if the subject can be centered reliably, I'll switch to center focus point.
Thanks for responding...I'm going to try some of your suggestions.
03-17-2009, 06:36 PM   #4
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Basically I use similar guidelines as you suggested. However, I use multisegment metering and TAV mode.

04-02-2009, 01:41 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by fwcetus Quote
Well, I'm more likely to do things a bit differently:

1. I usually meter by multisegment (dialing in exposure comp + or - depending on the situation).

2. Sometimes I use program (especially in bright light and/or when I can't concentrate on exposures), or I use aperture priority (to keep the aperture at a "sharp-as-possible" f/8 to f/10 or so - I need the ability to crop quite a bit on occasion), or sometimes, if the light is pretty steady (both in direction and intensity), I'll switch over to manual exposure and avoid the exposure comp juggling altogether.

3. If the subject is sitting still in a tree, say, I'll switch to AF-S, but if the subject is moving, I'll switch to AF-C.

4. If the subject is moving around (especially a flying bird), I'll switch to auto focus point, but if the subject can be centered reliably, I'll switch to center focus point.
Good tips, thanks
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