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04-03-2009, 12:56 PM   #1
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K20D with slave ... Strobist Newby help

I have two 150Watt Strobes with built in 70watt model lamps here today. They have both remote and PC sync ports. They also have built in flash slave sensors.

Everything works great using the PC Sync cable(connected to strobe 1) and closing the on camera flash, the other strobe (strobe 2) unit is in slave mode and is perfectly in sync with strobe 1. Works Great.


Trying to use the units in slave mode without using a PC Sync AT ALL does not work.
Because the built in flash on the K20D fires multiple times when the shutter is released, the strobe units fire before the shutter is even open. This is the same when I set the flash in wireless mode.

Using a traditional point and shoot camera without red-eye enabled works perfect with these strobes in full slave mode.

What am I missing? I'm guessing its something simple I am missing, or is the pentax DSLR system incapable of working this way with slave units?

Thanks.

04-03-2009, 01:07 PM   #2
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I see that if I use my Sigma 20mm F1.8, if i switch it away from A, the camera won't pre-flash. I'm thinking my best and cheapest bet to go wire free is to get one of those el' cheapo RF hotshoe adapters.
04-03-2009, 01:11 PM   #3
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is your pop up flash set to master or controller
04-03-2009, 01:16 PM   #4
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use the fleabay triggers...it'll make your life easier...

04-03-2009, 03:27 PM   #5
DAZ
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One thing I wish (and about the only thing) my K20D had was more control of the built in flash. This is something that could probably be added by a bios update. In the flash menu add a setting for manual flash with 4-5 steps of control.

But as steve500 indicated by using a non DA lens and going to manual aperture control the flash will fire at full power. You can then do things to control the light output. I use a small piece of Cinefoil to cover some of the flash. You can use regular aluminum foil. I also use a diffuser on the built in flash to reduce the light with only a little Cinefoil. Not all that hard but a menu option would be better. For optical slave stuff it works about as well as any optical slave stuff work.

Just one more reason to buy more old manual lenses.

DAZ
04-03-2009, 07:13 PM   #6
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heh it's those little things that tick me off about pentax but hey, There's always a way to deal .
04-03-2009, 07:55 PM   #7
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The studio strobes that you have are not going to understand the P-TTL preflashes.

You are pretty much going to want to be in manual anyway since your lighting setup will not be changing from shot to shot.
04-03-2009, 10:25 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by alohadave Quote
The studio strobes that you have are not going to understand the P-TTL preflashes.

You are pretty much going to want to be in manual anyway since your lighting setup will not be changing from shot to shot.

Very Very true, its the only lens with an aperture ring that I have right now but also the best one for studio/portrait work that I have anyways (although my 18-250 preforms surprisingly VERY well), so that'll do. Sync cording isn't too bad, wireless would just be nice

Going a little off topic, is a what's the spill on the best strobe wattages for situations?

Is a 500 watt strobe sufficient from small to very large range shots? If I were doing large group shots (basketball team photos, etc..) will 500 watts be plenty?

I have two 150 watt strobe units.. , theyve been awesome to play with and I've produced some sweet shots so far, even out door. I just can't imagine them doing so well for larger applications but I have not tried. I wired up a small 12V drycell battery and inverter and put it in a camera case for portable power.

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