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05-25-2009, 10:29 AM   #16
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Put the screws on the body with red Loctite and let it sit for a day and you will be happy .

05-25-2009, 11:13 AM   #17
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I once had a camera bag roll over in the back of a Jeep Cherokee (unbeknownst to me) and when I opened the rear hatch the bag gently rolled out and onto the ground. It didn't seem to have taken a hard hit, as it only fell a couple feet, and the bag (a Tamrac Super Pro 14) is fairly well-padded. But it ruined the FD 28-85mm f/4 zoom on my T90...didn't snap the mount on the camera, but it broke something in the lens barrel. Almost never got it off the camera.

The lesson I learned: Never transport with a lens longer than 50mm attached.
05-25-2009, 01:52 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ken T Quote
Put the screws on the body with red Loctite and let it sit for a day and you will be happy .
I'm not qualified to judge how strong Loctite is, but since you have access to aviation epoxys, I think you can fill the stripped holes with one of those and let set briefly, then insert the screws and let set for at least 24 hours. There are some exceptionally strong, 2 part epoxies out there.

Olin
05-25-2009, 02:44 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by mrt10x Quote
The last pic the K20d took before I killed it

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Excellent capture, makes me think of Ansel Adams. Sorry for your camera though.

Cheers,

Rene

05-25-2009, 04:11 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Gooneybird Quote
I'm not qualified to judge how strong Loctite is, but since you have access to aviation epoxys, I think you can fill the stripped holes with one of those and let set briefly, then insert the screws and let set for at least 24 hours. There are some exceptionally strong, 2 part epoxies out there.

Olin
Those are my thoughts. I'm not sure the bonding properties that red loctite has to plastic. ( I do know that the company that makes loctite does have products for that though)

If Pentax can't fix it, then it is time to mix up some marine/aircraft epoxy. I've used epoxy to redo pulled screws for this kind of thing before. The biggest thing to watch for is that you get the metal mount ring in square again so your lens mounts in alignment properly.
05-25-2009, 04:58 PM   #21
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I'd be worried the mount wouldn't be on the same exact plane as originally built. If it's off ever so slightly, you might have severe focusing issues...

If it happened to me and I had money to replace it - I'd epoxy the mount back on, attach a lensbaby to it and buy a replacement body. At least then you never have to worry about the focus being off a hair!

05-25-2009, 05:25 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ole Quote
Let's hope the screws are screwed into metal on the K-7!
There was a thread on another site a while back about a similar incident that happened with a metal-bodied E-3. It turned out that, despite the camera body and the lensmount both being metal, the mount was screwed into plastic. At first posters found this absolutely ridiculous and got kind of mad about it, until someone thought about it from an engineering point of view... in a serious impact, SOMETHING is going to break or deform. Will it be some of those delicately aligned lens elements? Will the front of the camera body warp? Either one of those occurences could render an expensive camera body or lens unreparable. Instead, why not make the weak point the lensmount-to-body connection, which could be an easily replaced plastic part? The plastic absorbs the impact by breaking and the camera and the lens (with the lensmount still attached) seperate unharmed. If I recall right an Oly rep later confirmed more or less the same idea in the camera design, and the camera was succesfully repaired under warranty.
05-25-2009, 10:31 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by khardur Quote
I'd be worried the mount wouldn't be on the same exact plane as originally built. If it's off ever so slightly, you might have severe focusing issues...

If it happened to me and I had money to replace it - I'd epoxy the mount back on, attach a lensbaby to it and buy a replacement body. At least then you never have to worry about the focus being off a hair!

Thats alright I didnt think it ever focused all that well anyway

05-26-2009, 03:57 AM   #24
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Ouch, good planing tho

you can go up to your wife and show her your camera, i need a new one you say.

And now you can do a tilt shift camera
05-26-2009, 09:06 PM   #25
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Re-attachment went surprisingly well.. no stripped threads...first couple of test shots went ok.. going to do some focus charts now to get a final verdict.

[IMG][/IMG]
05-26-2009, 11:28 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by mrt10x Quote
Re-attachment went surprisingly well.. no stripped threads...first couple of test shots went ok.. going to do some focus charts now to get a final verdict.

[IMG][/IMG]
Check it.

Many years ago when I started getting serious about photography, I would take some of my equipment with me on the job.

I was a delivery driver and drove a big diesel truck with was very loud and buzzed alot in the cab of the truck.

I had purchased a cheap L shaped flash bracket with a cold shoe and I had it in the truck with my camera.

At the end of the day, I retrieved it from under the seat; there were no interestng pics to take and I was busy.

The three mega tiny screws that held the shoe in place were either off of the bracket or loose.

There was no flash in the shoe; it loks like the screws resenated with the vibrations of the moter and turned outward.

The same story as yours; metal into plastic.

I hope that is what happened to you and you should be able to simply screw them back into place as I did on my bracket.( It looks like you already have).

Go luck sir!

I think you are gong to be just fine!
05-27-2009, 12:01 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by mrt10x Quote
Re-attachment went surprisingly well.. no stripped threads...first couple of test shots went ok.. going to do some focus charts now to get a final verdict.

[IMG][/IMG]
Glad to see this worked out for you! Btw, where did you get the schematic?
05-27-2009, 01:00 AM   #28
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I googled it and it linked me back to a thread here at Pentax Forums by Ricehigh.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/48973-k20d-exploded-view-parts.html
05-27-2009, 08:35 AM   #29
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Well, if the threads aren't stripped, then well and good..but if they are somehow loose, then it would just happen over again.
I think if you returned it for repair, they would replace the front plastic part of the body where the mount attaches 'coz from the pictures, it would seem that only the screws came off but all the electrical contacts where left in the body.
Who knows, it might actually have cost you less and you'ld get a new front body also.
Good luck on your repair. Hope it not only works but also holds up!
05-27-2009, 10:28 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by GerryL Quote
Well, if the threads aren't stripped, then well and good..but if they are somehow loose, then it would just happen over again.
I think if you returned it for repair, they would replace the front plastic part of the body where the mount attaches 'coz from the pictures, it would seem that only the screws came off but all the electrical contacts where left in the body.
Who knows, it might actually have cost you less and you'ld get a new front body also.
Good luck on your repair. Hope it not only works but also holds up!
Well the screws are tight..in fact I had to take the screws out of the K10d to see how to orient the small metal ring that is behind the visible mount... the k20's screws are just as tight at the k10s. Here is the problem, the belief that there is some sort of replaceable mount on the body... there is not.. the screws go directly into the plastic frame...take a look at the schematic. It is my belief that if the mounting holes had been stripped, the camera would have been a complete loss. Poor design?? I dont know.... certainly poor headwork on my part.
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