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12-19-2009, 09:53 AM   #136
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QuoteOriginally posted by fisheye freak Quote
.... The astro stuff makes conventional photography look easy.
Though your basic facts are true it isn't THAT bad or all of us would have given up.

I've been doing astrophotography for years and still enjoy it (or will enjoy it when the weather changes). Weather is one frustration you left out. Astrophotography is perhaps the most weather dependent hobby. There are evenings skiers, boaters, ball players, etc. call clear and calm that are unusable for astro.

12-29-2009, 09:06 PM   #137
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I am really new to long exposure , and even to DSLR...
I was wondering where and how are the settings to get a 30 seconds exposure on the K7 , I've been going through the manual but I dont understand how is it done
Are you suppose to keep pressing the shutter for 30 secs on the "B" mode ?? How is this done ??

Sorry if this questions sounds stupid...
12-29-2009, 10:57 PM   #138
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QuoteOriginally posted by Miguel1980 Quote
I am really new to long exposure , and even to DSLR...
I was wondering where and how are the settings to get a 30 seconds exposure on the K7 , I've been going through the manual but I dont understand how is it done
Are you suppose to keep pressing the shutter for 30 secs on the "B" mode ?? How is this done ??

Sorry if this questions sounds stupid...
Keeping the shutter button depressed for 30 sec. in bulb (B) mode would work, but "M" (manual) mode has times up to 30 sec. as an option. Set the mode dial to "M" and turn the front e-dial (toward the left I think) to set 30 seconds (not 1/30 )
12-30-2009, 12:53 AM   #139
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Strange, I had my fisheye on the other night on M and the camera was very reluctant to go to 30 seconds. It was happy with 15 but 30 it barely liked, and only after thinking about it for a while. odd

12-30-2009, 06:16 AM   #140
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Nice !!! I got it ! Thank you
05-04-2010, 10:19 AM   #141
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QuoteOriginally posted by C.W Tsorotes Quote
I'm not sure if this qualifies as a true long exposure shot, this was made up of about 16 30" exposures + a dark frame shot at 500iso, other than the stacking and enhanced foreground there was actually no post-processing NR applied to either the stars or the foreground.

Which programs did you use for staking ?
06-21-2010, 11:31 PM   #142
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Ah, an old thread... I remember reading this and not having too much of an opinion. The wait times weren't that unbearable for me whenever I did long exposures, even those that went up to 2-3 minutes.

But the other day I was out doing LE as the sun was rising. For the first time, I was pulling my hair out waiting for those minutes and the light kept on changing and I could only capture half of it.

That's why I wanted to see if this problem had been fixed and came across this thread again ;-)


Guess not. I guess I could try just taking 29 second time lapse shots and do stacking in post (it might be an interesting way to control for exposure after the fact). But in the mean time, I've decided that for that kind of photography, I'm going to have to resort to using my sub (5D Mk II :-)
06-22-2010, 12:22 AM   #143
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QuoteOriginally posted by RawheaD Quote
That's why I wanted to see if this problem had been fixed and came across this thread again ;-)

Guess not. I guess I could try just taking 29 second time lapse shots and do stacking in post (it might be an interesting way to control for exposure after the fact). But in the mean time, I've decided that for that kind of photography, I'm going to have to resort to using my sub (5D Mk II :-)
What's amazing is the Canon 5D Mk II is no better, and although you can turn it off with the Canon, doing so will result in hundreds of hotpixels. It's required to turn it on for the 5D Mk II to get anywhere near a decent photo with long exposures.

The fact that people seem to think this is a K7 or Pentax problem or even a CMOS problem is incorrect. I have CCD based cameras with the same issues.

Yes i do think it's a pain and would like to see it addressed, but as to pretend that Pentax should just enable it and creating a hundreds of hotpixels as Canon have done is hardly a stellar solution. Increased cooling solutions for long exposure need to be done and you can get mods for things like the 5D is you wish to pay to get the problem improved.

06-30-2010, 05:07 PM   #144
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QuoteOriginally posted by Freak Quote
What's amazing is the Canon 5D Mk II is no better, and although you can turn it off with the Canon, doing so will result in hundreds of hotpixels. It's required to turn it on for the 5D Mk II to get anywhere near a decent photo with long exposures.
No, it's not a problem with the 5D Mk II. I've used it successfully many times with exposures ranging up to 5-6 minutes, without there being enough hot pixels to be bothered with dark frames–––which I could always do if I wanted.

In case you hadn't noticed, the complaint isn't about noise, hot pixels, s/n etc. in long exposure, but the inability to to shoot consecutive LE shots longer than 30s on the K-7. If the effect I'm aiming for requires a 2 minute exposure (at whatever ISO, F-stop + ND filter combination), the K-7 will force me to shoot 1 frame, then wait 2 full minutes before I shoot the next frame. No matter how you cut it, that is an inconvenience. With my 5D Mk II, I can shoot ten 2-minute frames in 20 minutes, maybe spend another 2 minutes at the end for my dark frame, then pack up and leave.


Now, if that just meant that I need to spend 40 minutes with my K-7 instead of 20 minutes, that would be bearable. But, what if you're shooting an *event* (whatever it may be... fireworks, sunrise, etc.) that lasts for only 20 minutes? It means that with the K-7, I can only shoot 10 frames. THAT is the problem.
07-01-2010, 03:54 AM   #145
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QuoteOriginally posted by RawheaD Quote
If the effect I'm aiming for requires a 2 minute exposure (at whatever ISO, F-stop + ND filter combination), the K-7 will force me to shoot 1 frame, then wait 2 full minutes before I shoot the next frame.
Wasn't that changed with one of the firmware updates? I recall something that DFS needs less time than the original exposure since of the the firmware updates, i.e. after a 2 minute exposure DFS is just 1 minute or something like that.
07-02-2010, 05:01 AM   #146
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QuoteOriginally posted by Freak Quote
What's amazing is the Canon 5D Mk II is no better, and although you can turn it off with the Canon, doing so will result in hundreds of hotpixels. It's required to turn it on for the 5D Mk II to get anywhere near a decent photo with long exposures.

The fact that people seem to think this is a K7 or Pentax problem or even a CMOS problem is incorrect. I have CCD based cameras with the same issues.

Yes i do think it's a pain and would like to see it addressed, but as to pretend that Pentax should just enable it and creating a hundreds of hotpixels as Canon have done is hardly a stellar solution. Increased cooling solutions for long exposure need to be done and you can get mods for things like the 5D is you wish to pay to get the problem improved.
Actually, you could not be more wrong. I can only speak for Canon cameras and they, with their CMOS imagers, perform remarkably well in low light/long exposure conditions. I was so disappointed with my Pentax K20D (and Pentax's response to me) that I eventually purchased a Canon 5D.

I still have a huge lens investment with Pentax but gradually, I will completely replace Pentax with Canon.
07-02-2010, 05:06 AM   #147
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QuoteOriginally posted by RawheaD Quote
No, it's not a problem with the 5D Mk II. I've used it successfully many times with exposures ranging up to 5-6 minutes, without there being enough hot pixels to be bothered with dark frames–––which I could always do if I wanted.

In case you hadn't noticed, the complaint isn't about noise, hot pixels, s/n etc. in long exposure, but the inability to to shoot consecutive LE shots longer than 30s on the K-7. If the effect I'm aiming for requires a 2 minute exposure (at whatever ISO, F-stop + ND filter combination), the K-7 will force me to shoot 1 frame, then wait 2 full minutes before I shoot the next frame. No matter how you cut it, that is an inconvenience. With my 5D Mk II, I can shoot ten 2-minute frames in 20 minutes, maybe spend another 2 minutes at the end for my dark frame, then pack up and leave.


Now, if that just meant that I need to spend 40 minutes with my K-7 instead of 20 minutes, that would be bearable. But, what if you're shooting an *event* (whatever it may be... fireworks, sunrise, etc.) that lasts for only 20 minutes? It means that with the K-7, I can only shoot 10 frames. THAT is the problem.
Good to see that another photographer understands this problem. As I explained in my letter to Pentax, it's okay that the CMOS is going to produce a lot of noise, I accept that and I will fix this myself by doing my own dark frame subtraction. Their reply to me indicated that they are completely clueless to this being a real problem.
07-03-2010, 11:32 PM   #148
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QuoteOriginally posted by pentaxmz Quote
I was so disappointed with my Pentax K20D (and Pentax's response to me) that I eventually purchased a Canon 5D.
Here there is a huge market of modding 5DMKII's with cooling fans for Astrophotoraphy, You only have to do a google search to see the problems are huge on the Canons on anything over 8mins. So for me the same issues continued without after market cooling.

Nobody has said anything that i did not, I think it should be an option on the Pentax to turn it off... And never claimed otherwise, to pretend this is only a Pentax issue however is incorrect.

As for Pentax, Why don't you turn the Camera off and avoid the DFS?

This is the ,manually more laborious equivalent of disabling DFS on long exposures. However the noise you get won't be fun on any Camera IMO.
07-04-2010, 01:16 AM   #149
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QuoteOriginally posted by Freak Quote
As for Pentax, Why don't you turn the Camera off and avoid the DFS?

This is the ,manually more laborious equivalent of disabling DFS on long exposures. However the noise you get won't be fun on any Camera IMO.
This doesn't work, at least not on the K-x. When you switch it on again, it just continues with the DFS.
07-05-2010, 12:25 PM   #150
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QuoteOriginally posted by kari Quote
This doesn't work, at least not on the K-x. When you switch it on again, it just continues with the DFS.
Same with K-7. Actually with the K-7, I think it just doesn't shut off until DFS is completed. I guess I could take the battery out to force it?
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