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05-08-2007, 12:49 PM   #16
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I don't think that soft JPEGs are a result of AA filter. If so how come RAWs are sharp?! They wouldn't be if AA filter was in the way.

I found RSE to be a good start with raw conversion but latter I found that it has very poor color rendition and separation meaning that images always had that green glow which I could never get rid of entirely and some colors were rendered as one while in reality and on images developed with Photolab or Capture One the difference was noticeable.
I'd recommend SilkyPix or maybe Capture One or Lightroom.

05-08-2007, 01:08 PM   #17
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I traded my DS in recently for a Rolleiflex, but when I used it, I loved it. Put it this way - if they'd put the 10MP sensor in the DS body I would have bought that over the K10D.
05-08-2007, 03:04 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Matjazz Quote
I don't think that soft JPEGs are a result of AA filter. If so how come RAWs are sharp?! They wouldn't be if AA filter was in the way.

I found RSE to be a good start with raw conversion but latter I found that it has very poor color rendition and separation meaning that images always had that green glow which I could never get rid of entirely and some colors were rendered as one while in reality and on images developed with Photolab or Capture One the difference was noticeable.
I'd recommend SilkyPix or maybe Capture One or Lightroom.
Just goes to show I guess, how different people interpret different things. I've never had the chance to try SilkyPix, but Lightroom, so far, is a complete joke.
05-08-2007, 08:37 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Matjazz Quote
I don't think that soft JPEGs are a result of AA filter. If so how come RAWs are sharp?! They wouldn't be if AA filter was in the way.

I found RSE to be a good start with raw conversion but latter I found that it has very poor color rendition and separation meaning that images always had that green glow which I could never get rid of entirely and some colors were rendered as one while in reality and on images developed with Photolab or Capture One the difference was noticeable.
I'd recommend SilkyPix or maybe Capture One or Lightroom.
I second all your views fully. Whilst the RSE has an excellent interface and extremely smooth batch processing, I found the colours to be strange too, when I used it to process RAW files of my *ist DS which is supposed to be fully supported and the RSE has a profile of the model.

As for RAW converted jpeg and in-camera jpeg, the difference is *huge*. Still, the jpegs of the DS, even it is RAW converted, is still not as sharp as those from the K100D. So, afterall, the AA filter strongness does count.

05-09-2007, 12:15 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by PeterAM Quote
I have a DS and have been pleased with it's performance. I print my pictures and have been able to print full frame JPEGs up to 10 X 15 with excellent results. The only thing missing is SR, which by the way, wasn't on any of the film cameras that we all used. You should be able to work at whatever your skill level is, with no problems.
I have printed multiple 12x18 (full frame) shots - mostly RAW PP'd in Lightroom - and one 20X30 from my *ist Ds. They all came out great - even the picture peepers (you know the ones --- stick their noses up to the 20x30 images and say: "This is from a 6MP camera? - no way") are impressed. (All C*non users by the way)

The 12x18 I did from JPEG at ISO 3200 came out sort of OK - did not know how to tell the Costco printer to not automatically "fix" the image. Lost a lot of the detail that I wanted and it added too much contrast and way to much saturation. Looked like it was taken with a C*non - no subtly at all.

Enjoy the camera - It has served me well and no I will not give it up - it is my K10D backup - or I will let my son borrow it when we are both out and about.

PDL
05-09-2007, 04:37 AM   #21
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Great info, did not know about the highlight preserving part of the camera. Did not take time to read the whole manual. I will try the center AE and dial it up a little to compensate.

Been using a Canon D30 for the last 5 years on outdoors shoots. I did not own the camera, my partner did. So far, I like the DS better. Like all new toys, it takes a little practice.
05-12-2007, 09:04 AM   #22
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I've shot nearly 14,000 images with my DS in two and a bit years and I'm pretty happy with it. (That's not to say I won't jump ship to a K10D now that I think I can afford it, but I've had a pretty good run with the DS.)

Re sharpening: I do the opposite to roscot - I set the sharpness slider as far to the left as possible and do my sharpening with Unsharp Mask in PhotoShop. I've done this ever since I noticed halos around elements in my pictures on the first day I took it out to shoot with it. I'd rather not use in-camera sharpening which generates halos! (This was version 1.1 of the firmware. I don't know if the current version still generates halos as I've never put it to the test.)

I also expect to do a little bit of work with levels and/or curves in Photoshop to get the best out of my pictures. My other half's Konika-Minolta Z5 produces images which are nearer to printer ready, but as several people have pointed out, it's better to underexpose a bit than to lose your highlights.

I do occasionally lose highlights anyway, and for night shooting, I generally slide the contrast slider as far to the left as it will go. (Yes, I started shooting JPEGs when I didn't have any software to convert RAW due to being on Win98, and I've just kept right on shooting JPEGS.)

On battery usage: I've got three sets of rechargeables. One set are 2200s and the other two are 2300s. I've always regarded the 2200s as not very good, but used them last weekend in good conditions and now wish to revise my opinion to "the 2200s aren't suitable for night shooting conditions". At night, the 2300s with that much more power are better suited to the power drain of night shooting. Now you can get even higher powered batteries. I'd go for the best power you can get, but don't go below 2300. On a daytime shoot last year at the Biggin Hill Air Fare, I shot about 1,400 images (far too many - I'll be more selective this year) and put the second set of 2300s in after about 1,000+ shots when the low battery indicator started to show. There was no flash usage and very little back panel reviewing that day to use up power.

All in all, my photography has improved enormously with the DS. Instant review gives instand feedback and you can learn in minutes instead of over the course of the processing of several rolls of film. The histogram is helpful for verifying a reasonable exposure. You can also delete the failures without it costing you anything.

One word about the back screen: do not treat the display on the back screen as an accurate rendition of the colour balance. It tends to display things more blue than they will look on your PC moniotor back home.
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