[Eruditass]

So since the K2000 unfortunately does not have a cable release, has anyone done anything to simulate it for bulb mode?

I would prefer not to have to use a remote control and drain it's battery and only being limited to the front area of the camera (might be in the shot).

Maybe some sort of tape and round object on top of the shutter button?

Also, for astrophotography type things, do most of you recommend DFS on or off for CCD sensors? I know they don't heat up as much so they don't have huge heat-induced pattern noise - so actually the darker areas of a picture will be noisier with DFS on (random noise - random noise = sqrt(2) more noise) and it will take twice as long.

But current leakage is still different between each pixel sensor - how do you folks do DFS manually? If I take a picture with the cap on - am I guaranteed absolute darkness like how it does DFS with the mirror down? Also, won't I have to keep the shutter open just as long anyway to get the same level of leakage for each color sensor? I can't just store a "dark frame" because each exposure length is not the same - although the relative amount of leakage is. Or do I just post-process and get rid of them manually?

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Last edited by Eruditass; 08-23-2009 at 09:14 PM.

[pixelsaurus]

As the shutter button is damaged on my MEF and can be popped out by a locked cable release, I resort to using a ball bearing and a chunk of duct tape; works a treat. I tape the shutter button down with the lens cap on and remove the lens cap after the shutter has triggered. I just cover the lens with my hand to untape the shutter and then put the lens cap on.
I use an ist DS for astro and always shoot with NR off (because I can) as this halves the time required for exposure and image save. You can always shoot darks at any time and save them for future use. As the sensor ages, you just shoot new darks to compensate.

PhotoMe is a free metadata editor and will show the camera temperature at exposure
PhotoME - Exif, IPTC & ICC Metadata Editor

For astrophotography tutorials, these links may set you on the right path:

Catching the Light: Astrophotography by Jerry Lodriguss
ash's "Diamonds from the Rough" Page

Iris is a freeware astronomical image editor and there is a download link on the latter site.

Good luck.

[opiedog]

i've been wondering the same thing for my k2000. i guess the only way is to "simulate a finger press" on the shutter.

pixelsaurus' suggestion looks good, but i wouldn't use a ball bearing though. maybe something "softer" on the shutter button

[Eruditass]

Thought I'd bump this up since the K-x seems to have the same body

[impact]

I have been thinking about a custom remote, just an IR led, on-off switch and a larger battery. This is obviously assuming that the remote doesn't send any codes. Does anybody know whether this is the case or not?

[tomwil]

I have been thinking about a custom remote, just an IR led, on-off switch and a larger battery. This is obviously assuming that the remote doesn't send any codes. Does anybody know whether this is the case or not?

There is an unique code sent. That is why the universal remotes have a different button for Canon/Nikon/Pentax, and why some TV remotes can be TV code-selected to fire a Pentax.

[jantjooh]

I recently found this "solution" by German accessorymaker HAMA
hama.de | Abbildung: 00005345 HamaDrahtauslöser für Digitalkameras
(I have the K-m, but do not intend to buy this thing,for the moment)
Regards, Jan