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09-11-2009, 07:06 AM   #1
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Has anyone got any success doing this multi exposure procedure technique?

Favourite Feature of the K10D - Multi-exposure (images) [Page 1]: Pentax SLR Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review

I tried it but my results are NOWHERE near those...maybe I am missing something.
Anyone done this?




PS maybe the wrong forum?


Last edited by shaolin95; 09-11-2009 at 07:40 AM.
09-12-2009, 06:10 PM   #2
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QuoteOriginally posted by shaolin95 Quote
Favourite Feature of the K10D - Multi-exposure (images) [Page 1]: Pentax SLR Talk Forum: Digital Photography Review

I tried it but my results are NOWHERE near those...maybe I am missing something.
Anyone done this?
This technique, if used as suggested, only makes sense if:
- you use a sturdy tripod.
- set ISO to 100.
- set "exposure compensation" to off (or on?; the setting which gives longer exposures anyway)
- use many shots, 9 is better than 3.

Shooting a 9 shot multiexposure image on tripod is like using ISO 11 which gives great dynamic range, especially useful at night or for water falls.


A more universal technique may be to just shoot about ~10 images in burst mode and store the RAWs. The PhotoAcute program is great to do what multiexposure does in camera. But because you don't need a tripod (it does alignment), it is actually useful for high ISO photography (take 16 shots at ISO 1600 and combine to one ISO 100 shot).
09-12-2009, 07:41 PM   #3
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I have played with this some on my K20D. As with just about any multi exposure photo you do need to use a tripod.

What you get depends somewhat on how you use it. If you are looking for ghosts in the image you need to keep the shutter speed high enough to not blur the ghost subjects. It tends to work best with high contrast subject. Here is an example of that kind of photo.



Ghosts Anew. DAZ_4493 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

If you are looking blur things like water and clouds that have some motion and soft edges you can get that with shutter speeds higher then you normally need (lower then lets say 1/30) to get a good blur. But if there are things in the photo that are high contrast and you donít have a slow enough shutter speed you will still get ghosts. Here is an example of that. If you look close in the full size version you can see some gulls but they look like they are in the fog. Also check out the edge of the surf line. Using multi exposure gives a harder line and looks more like a normal photo.



DAZ_4562 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

The technique gives some tools you can use in camera (either RAW or JPG). You can get the blurry water look what there is more light then normal (with out a ND filter) but if is already dark and you can get slow shutter speeds it may not be the best option. I have not had a chance to play with it when it is really dark to see if there is any advantage to this over just a longer exposure.

DAZ
09-12-2009, 07:59 PM   #4
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What I like is that sort of HDR look the photos on that link have though.

09-12-2009, 08:46 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by shaolin95 Quote
What I like is that sort of HDR look the photos on that link have though.
I looked at the photo in the link you provided. I donít know for sure but the photos did not look like HDR photos to me. I have seen photos that look like that with just long exposures. Thatís the problem with HDR photos. A lot of the time people use it when it is not needed. With out having a photo to compare it to it is hard to tell on the other hand maybe these did need HDR and it just look good. I can see how you could get a HDR out of this. It is something I am going to play with. If you set your speeds manually it may give more control then the set EV spread you get on the K7. It should work for daylight photos. It may be a wash as it may be easier to do it all PP.

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09-13-2009, 03:37 AM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by shaolin95 Quote
What I like is that sort of HDR look the photos on that link have though.
The author in the original link said he uses the technique to not get the HDR look he would get from exposure bracketing and Photomatix.

He may still apply tone mapping when developping the multiexposure images in lightroom though. As boosting shadow regions is just that.

And as I said, the higher dynamic range coming from the technique gives you more freedom to do it. If possible, using RAW would be recommended (I don't remember if RAW and multiexposure can be combined). With JPG and K-7, one should set shadow compensation to max at least.

Without any postprocessing, a multiexposure image will look identical to a single exposure image.


BTW, the author in the original link is wrong if he thinks that multiexposure makes a difference to exposure bracketing. He could as well use exposure bracketing, combine images in Photomatix into a single 32 Bit image without tone mapping, import in Photoshop and convert to 16 Bit without tone mapping again. Except for hard contrast light halos, this would look identical to a multiexposure RAW image.
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