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09-22-2009, 04:24 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by StigVidar Quote

Every WB setting on K-7 (and K20D, K10D) can be adjusted with your own bias. So why not use AWB with a warm tone bias?
That I think is too complicated and time consuming outdoors when you need to respond fast.
IMHO you better start shooting RAW and do the white balance in PP.
Memory is cheap, time and travel are expensive.

- Bert

09-22-2009, 06:45 PM   #17
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Thanks for posting those!

Looks like you had a great trip, I enjoyed the photos! I would love to go on an adventure like that, but my Safaris are mostly limited to shooting my squirrels in my yard. As you can see, I have plenty! LOL
I would highly recommend that you shoot RAW+JPEG when you are in critical situations where you won't get another opportunity to shoot. It has saved me many times. While some can work miracles with JPEG's no one that I l know of can do what can be done with a RAW image. Other than card space, and that is cheap, there is little downside. If my JPEG's are what I want, I simply delete the RAW shots. If not, I have a second chance to get them right.
Regards!
Rupert
09-22-2009, 07:14 PM   #18
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The whole Ok button thing for AF selection worries me, i suspect it will annoy the crap outta me. I can't say that too loudly as i squarked like a stuck pig that we needed a direct button for ISo and Wb but now having a 20D i can tweak iso using a wheel so yeeeeeah ....... um .... can ya change it back Pentax?
09-22-2009, 08:23 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by bymy141 Quote
3) The AF selection in firmware 1.01 with the Ok button is something I cannot get used to.
It makes me press too many buttons, losing time, missing shots.
I need to learn better to press the right button sequences.


- Bert
I'm not sure whether your concern is the AF selection can only be done after you press the OK button, or that you have to press the OK button to access other functions like AWB or drive mode.

I know a lot of users prefer AF selection to be direct without pressing any buttons, but some other users prefer AWB , Picture Mode, Drive mode etc. to be selected directly.

Firmware 1.01 allows you to set one or the other as the default behaviour - its in the custom menu.

QuoteOriginally posted by netuser Quote
Thanks for sharing. It's usefull

And also, in M mode how do you see the exposure/meter if you have the horizon auto level ON ?
In M mode, the exposure meter is always visible on the rear LCD, regardless of the electronic horizon setting.

09-22-2009, 09:00 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by bymy141 Quote
6) LV: it is soooo slooow. Useless.
Have you changed the settings for the LV option? I know the face detection option is very slow, but for the other modes, it works just fine.
09-22-2009, 10:34 PM   #21
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I was going to ask about the LV too....what is soooooo slow about it?

Jas
09-23-2009, 03:39 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jasvox Quote
I was going to ask about the LV too....what is soooooo slow about it?

Jas
The contrast AF is very slow to my experience.

- Bert
09-23-2009, 03:43 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by kittykat46 Quote
I'm not sure whether your concern is the AF selection can only be done after you press the OK button, or that you have to press the OK button to access other functions like AWB or drive mode.

I know a lot of users prefer AF selection to be direct without pressing any buttons, but some other users prefer AWB , Picture Mode, Drive mode etc. to be selected directly.

Firmware 1.01 allows you to set one or the other as the default behaviour - its in the custom menu.
Yes, I know.
The problem is that I very often switch in settings as well.
For instance contineous shooting on/off, colour space, etc.
That interferes with the AF selection point, you need to press Ok all the time.

Also, on my K10D I use the setting that the AF button returns the AF point to the center. I wish that this option would be available on the K-& as well.

- Bert

09-23-2009, 03:48 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rupert Quote
Looks like you had a great trip, I enjoyed the photos! I would love to go on an adventure like that, but my Safaris are mostly limited to shooting my squirrels in my yard. As you can see, I have plenty! LOL
I would highly recommend that you shoot RAW+JPEG when you are in critical situations where you won't get another opportunity to shoot. It has saved me many times. While some can work miracles with JPEG's no one that I l know of can do what can be done with a RAW image. Other than card space, and that is cheap, there is little downside. If my JPEG's are what I want, I simply delete the RAW shots. If not, I have a second chance to get them right.
Regards!
Rupert
Well Rupert, the best thing about that trip was that half of the safari's were done on foot.
This means that often you'd find yourself in the middle of a group of animals. Sometimes very close....

Also, we have spend a lot of time in so called bush camps, far, far away from tourists and civilization. Charging batteries has been a challenge now and then.

It has been a great trip and experience.

For some more pictures have a look at: Picasa Web Albums - Bert

- Bert
09-23-2009, 08:02 AM   #25
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Nice report. I took the K-7 for a 3am photoshoot in Las Veags and the lights finally fooled the AWB. I haven't done any serious shooting in daylight yet, but the few shots I took looked good to me. It's a bummer that it is not consistant.

I find the LV very useful, try the AF option that makes the screen go blank, which is as fast as normal focus, and you hear the AF confrimation beep. I love it for shots that I cannot put my eye to the eyepiece, and for MF. Try it, as it is a very neat feature...I use it so much. But, I do agree that the othet two options are slow and needs to be fast for the LV top be fully functional.
09-24-2009, 04:03 AM   #26
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Let me show the AWB problem with an example:

K-7 in Auto White balance mode (RAW image) produced:
View Picture EXIF
Name:  IMGP0445-2.jpg
Views: 920
Size:  83.6 KB

With Lightroom's daylight settings applied in PP:
View Picture EXIF
Name:  IMGP0445.jpg
Views: 871
Size:  83.9 KB

This illustrates the point clearly.

My guess is that Pentax has tried to improve incandecent light white balance in auto mode.
Since that is predominantly yellow light, it needs to apply cooler colors.
In outdoor situations, that creates faulty results, but in camera reviews and studio tests it will create great results.
Unfortunatly the reviewers and critics have a lot of influence on camera developers these days...

I'll do a seperate thread to warn people for this issue.

- Bert

Last edited by bymy141; 09-24-2009 at 04:29 AM.
09-24-2009, 06:03 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by netuser Quote
In M mode how do you see the exposure/meter if you have the horizon auto level ON ?
Anyone ?
You have it on the status display on the rear screen.
However, if you switched the status screen off in menu, there is no way to activate it with the INFO button. The INFO button doesn't cycle thru info, off and status screen as it does do otherwise. IMHO, a flaw in the firmware ...
09-24-2009, 06:16 AM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by bymy141 Quote
My guess is that Pentax has tried to improve incandecent light white balance in auto mode.
[...]
I'll do a seperate thread to warn people for this issue.
The K-7 auto balance was actually on the other side of correct WB than the daylight setting. I attach a version with correct(*) WB.

(*) correct = taking darker areas of the lion's white beard as a gray card

Last edited by falconeye; 06-15-2011 at 05:29 AM.
09-24-2009, 06:22 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by falconeye Quote
The K-7 auto balance was actually on the other side of correct WB than the daylight setting. I attach a version with correct(*) WB.

(*) correct = taking darker areas of the lion's white beard as a gray card
Falconeye, I do not think you are right.
The shadows still show a lot of blue cast, that certainly is not reflecting reality.

- Bert
09-24-2009, 06:32 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by bymy141 Quote
Falconeye, I do not think you are right.
The shadows still show a lot of blue cast, that certainly is not reflecting reality.
Well, it is difficult with such small gray spot only. I concede that a warmer version may be more accurate (comment applies to previous version of my image). Shadows have some blue cast because they are illuminated by the sky which is blue

But my sample is certainly closer to the correct WB than both the original and your daylight sample. Your daylight sample is way over the edge (brownish cast). Do you use a calibrated monitor?

The warmer version may be artistically better (like candlelight shots shouldn't have correct WB either). But this is another story ...

EDIT:
I have updated my comparison above with a warmer version which is still rendering the beard gray. It may better fit your expectations. Still, it is in between the two, i.e., daylight color temperature yields too warm colors here.

Last edited by falconeye; 09-24-2009 at 06:45 AM.
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