[goddo31]

Hi,

As the title suggests, I am considering getting an aftermarket split image+microprism focussing screen for my K200D.
I have read (on the forums here) about the different screens available and was thinking of going for the K3 type from focussingscreens.com.

The only thing that concerns me is I have heard that with 'slower' lenses the split prism may black out, or the screen itself will be fairly dark.

Apart from a manual fast 50, my 2 main lenses at this point are the DA16-45 F4 and DA55-300 F4-5.8. I use the DA55-300 a lot, so if the lens was 'less usable' with the aftermarket screen it would not be ideal.

Why bother with the different screen you may ask?
I would like to shoot with more manual lenses; even though I only own an M50, I am looking at getting more MF primes, and have access to a nice collection of Taks.

Apologies for the long winded post, but thanks for listening.

cheers,

[Stratario]

If the prizm goes dark, you still have two other ways to focus. You still have the split part in the middle. You also still have the matt part of the screen everywhere outside of the middle circles that you can use, just like the stock screen.

[unkabin]

I have one of the cheapos from ebay (from shotin). At 5.6 you do have to have your eye centered or half the split circle will black out (until recently, I shot with a manual film camera, so this is just normal behavior to me). The screen I bought is a little dimmer than the original that came with my K10D, but I actually chose it for that reason. It helps with metering manual lenses (I think) and the more ground glass mat finish has a little more "snap" when it comes into focus. I took some test shots with manual lenses using both the original screen and the shotin split screen to see how metering changes. The shotin screen is definitely more consistent, though not completely so. Results (not scientific) are in this threadhttps://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/camera-studio-accessories/52064-k100d-sha...tml#post500467

If you're not aware of manual lenses and metering inaccuracy on some (all?) D bodies, then maybe someone can explain. I can't, but the dimmer screen helps over the brighter LL-80 screen that came with my camera.

The 55-300 at the far end would probably require accurate eye placement at the very long end to avoid losing half the focus circle, but I doubt it would be much different than 5.6. The f4 would be fine. Keep in mind that you focus with the aperture wide open, so stopping down for proper exposure doesn't affect what you see when focusing.

Many swear by Katzeye. They cost a lot more. They offer a brighter screen far less prone to blackout. I don't know about metering.

[goddo31]

Thanks for the replies, thats given me something to think about. Or some reassurance perhaps

unkabin - That's an interesting point about the dimmer screen helping with metering of manual lenses. I am aware of the metering issues, in a basic sense anyway.
When I have done stop-down metering with my M50 1.4, I found that I needed to adjust the exposure quite a bit.

I'm thinking that the 'A' lenses would be better in this regard - but that's probably another topic altogether.

Just had another thought, do you think putting the 55-300 on my ME super (ie. with split/microprism screen) would give a real indication as to what the lens might be like with a similar screen on the K200D?

I'm probably getting too carried away with this... Help and suggestions are appreciated though

[Mister Guy]

Yes, using your ME super would give you a reasonably good comparison. I've got a Katzeye w/ optibrite on my K20D and just love it. Correction. I leeeeeerv it so muuuuch.

Saving my pennies to get the same for the K7. If you're already used to some of the pitfalls with a film split screen, you're not going to have any problems with the same on digital, because you'll be used to that "black out head bob" you occasionally have to do with low light. With the Katzeye and optibright, I'm having to wrack my brain to remember if I've ever had it black out. Since I shoot mostly with 2.8 or faster lenses, I'm really struggling to think of a time it has.

[wildlifephotog]

I have ME Super split screens in my DS's. And a Yashica FX-3 2000 screen in my K200D.
In both cases they are somewhat brighter than the stock screens. The split usually holds up to about f8 in good light. F5.6 other times. Your eye does have to be centered.

[pacerr]

Ya don't get color slides from B&W negatives, ya can't haul 3/4 ton of bricks on a motorcycle and split image focusing AIDS don't work under all conditions - that's life.

Where they do work best they're very useful and once accustomed to them you'll miss them if not available. The imports do just fine in 99% of the situations where SI is beneficial and are fine values.

When you go MF you'll take more responsibility for, and have more satisfaction in, your results.

For the price of an imported SI screen you can pick up a used ME-body and see what it's all about.

H2

[newarts]

The way split prism (and phase detecton systems I think work) requires off axis rays, which aren't there when a lens is stopped down.

However, I've found it better to have such a focusing screen than not have one. I've got one on my K100D ( Jinfinance I think) & it doesn't interfere with the use of my DA 55-300 in either AF or MF modes. It is valuable with mf lenses or in unusual scene circumstances.

The biggest potential downside of such screens I think is that they compromise the center portion of the auto-exposure system....but not so much as to make me give it up.

Dave in Iowa

[Eruditass]

And, correct me if I'm wrong, even if part of it blacks out at the long end, autofocus will work just fine.

The loss of the focus brackets with the focus screen is the only reason I wish that the K-x had red light indicators because I really would like a split-image focus screen. With the ebay ones - is it easy to tell where the focus points are if you turn off the red-light indicators? - do they kind-of line up outside or on the edges of the circle or anything?

[unkabin]

Be aware that it can affect spot metering. I don't remember the specifics, as I don't often use spot. I have accidentally on my M 1.4, and get gross overexposure. Wide open, I don't think it's a problem, but stopped down, it increasingly errs. Maybe someone else can enlighten?

[wildlifephotog]

Yes, the aftermarket screens with center focus aids will mess with the spot metering.

[goddo31]

Thanks for all the informative replies.

I wouldn't say I am that experienced with the film style screens, but I certainly do miss it when moving from the ME Super back to K200D. I find manual focus on the ME Super to be quite effortless in most circumstances, hence wanting the same capability on the digital.

pacerr - Yes, I think I will get more satisfaction in my results with MF.

From other reading on this site, I am pretty sure that AF will be uneffected. Someone please correct me if wrong however..

As for spot metering, that's something to consider I suppose. Probably not a big deal for me though, I use center-weighted or matrix.
However could it affect the center metering point in metering modes other than spot metering?

cheers

[wildlifephotog]

It does not interfere with AF, or center weighted metering.
I've never had a problem on any of my cameras.

[Eruditass]

With the ebay ones - is it easy to tell where the focus points are if you turn off the red-light indicators? - do they kind-of line up outside or on the edges of the circle or anything?

Any information is very much appreciated!

[goddo31]

Ok - thanks.
I'll look at ordering one pretty soon, thanks for all your help.

cheers

EDIT: BTW I will post when I have ordered and update the thread with my experiences.