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11-11-2009, 02:38 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by kristoffon Quote
Another option you should consider is a K20D, still available new for ~$750.

You lose fps and some high iso performance compared to the K7 which is almost double the price.
I've not checked pricing for the K20D to confirm if perhaps it is available for lower than the $750 you said. The K-7's nowhere near double $750, though. It's readily available for $1,050, or as near as makes no difference. For $500 I'd probably suggest the K20D; for $600 I'd think about it. At $700, you're only talking about it being a third cheaper, and I'd most likely go for the K-7 at that price.

11-11-2009, 03:32 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by kristoffon Quote
weather sealing.

You lose fps and some high iso performance compared to the K7 which is almost double the price.
FPS is lower for the K20D but high ISO performance is equal as far as anything I've read. In fact according to DPR, the K20D has slightly lower noise than the K-7 in raw mode. The K-x looks to be about a stop better than either in this parameter.
11-11-2009, 06:41 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by audiobomber Quote
FPS is lower for the K20D but high ISO performance is equal as far as anything I've read. In fact according to DPR, the K20D has slightly lower noise than the K-7 in raw mode. The K-x looks to be about a stop better than either in this parameter.
Depends if you're talking about chroma noise (K-7 wins, slightly) or luminance noise (K20D wins, slightly). Also depends if you're talking about Raw or JPEG, and with what settings / processing.

There's not a lot in it, to be honest.
11-11-2009, 08:44 PM   #19
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Bestbuy has some great deals on refurbished Pentax DSLR.

11-11-2009, 08:52 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by kristoffon Quote
Another option you should consider is a K20D, still available new for ~$750.
Where is that at? Thanks in advance.
11-11-2009, 09:01 PM   #21
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Honestly, save some more or wait for price to drop and get the K-x. You'll only have buyer's remorse with the budget model.
11-12-2009, 01:39 PM   #22
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Thanks everyone for the comments, I think i might just see if i can stretch to the K-x...

I'm also coming around to thinking that the stop down metering might be better for the manual lenses too, even if it does require an extra press of a button
11-12-2009, 01:46 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by TheMilkman Quote
Thanks everyone for the comments, I think i might just see if i can stretch to the K-x...
Good decision. And while you're saving a few more bucks, the price of the K-x will s-l-o-w-l-y start to drop.

11-13-2009, 03:52 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by cbaytan Quote
Where is that at? Thanks in advance.
search ebay
11-13-2009, 10:39 PM   #25
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If you are switching from the 350D, go for the Kx...
11-16-2009, 05:39 AM   #26
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Just an update if anyone cares - After wasting enormous amounts of time over-thinking it, I went out and picked up a K-x with kit lens (for a very reasonable price)...

First impressions - after a few initial moments of concern about the 'rattle' in my new camera, my brain put 2+2 together and then I went and had a bit of a play. I found the darkest room in the house and closed all the blinds etc, with a 50mm/1.4 I was quite amazed at the quality of photo's possible in appalling light - The high ISO noise is very, very good. 6400 is very usable, noise probably on par with the Canon at 1600. 12800 is getting a bit ugly, but thats expected

I also stuck an old sigma 75-300mm zoom on to give the SR a bit more of a workout - again I was extremely impressed with the results, at 300mm (450mm actual) i was able to get a bunch of good sharp handheld shots at 1/15s which I felt was very good given how much shake was present.

So, given that my motivation for switching was primarily to gain better handheld and low light performance I am very very happy with the K-x, and i think it was worthwhile getting it over the K2000/k200d etc just for the high ISO performance alone. Almost hard to believe its basically an entry level camera and a very inexpensive one at that
11-16-2009, 06:56 AM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by knoxploration Quote
I've not checked pricing for the K20D to confirm if perhaps it is available for lower than the $750 you said. The K-7's nowhere near double $750, though. It's readily available for $1,050, or as near as makes no difference. For $500 I'd probably suggest the K20D; for $600 I'd think about it. At $700, you're only talking about it being a third cheaper, and I'd most likely go for the K-7 at that price.

When K-7 just came out for $1300, and K20D supplies wasn't out yet and it was selling for $650 in the bhphotovideo, he just remembers those coupla months ago prices, after I read persistent banding problem of K-7 with high ISO's I've decided to get a K20D, even though that kind of price difference is not an issue for me. Damn with the video, But I hope I am doing right.

Also I heard here K20D jpeg results are better than K-7..
11-16-2009, 06:59 AM   #28
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Glad you're happy with the K-x.
Seems like a great piece of kit.
11-16-2009, 07:46 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by TheMilkman Quote
- any issues with manual PK lenses - is getting proper metering on a Pentax Body a pain?
In short: this ain't Nikon .

In long: there are only two things you have to worried about with manual K lenses and metering. One, on non-A lenses (K series, M series,) you lose multipattern metering. Centre-weighting's a more than adequate replacement, especially on digital (and most of the time, it's works perfectly fine.)

Two: stop down metering. You're going to have to find the menu item that lets you use non-A lenses with the green button or whatever it's called on the latest cameras, and set it to "allow." And, of course, shoot in Manual mode.

Easiest way to show what happens with straight-K lenses is to give a few breakdowns. I have the camera set so that hitting the AE lock button on the back automatically sets the proper shutter speed (which you need to do with K or M lenses.)

Here's a breakdown of a shooting sequence with an A, F, FA, or DA lens in manual mode:

1) Set shutter/aperture on body, until bar graph/EV numbers show your desired exposure value.
2) Take picture.

Here's a breakdown of a shooting sequence with a K or M lens, or an A, F, or FA lens with the aperture ring not set on A:

1) Set aperture with aperture ring.
2) Hit AE lock button on back of camera. Camera with stop down the lens to your desired aperture, take a reading, and set the shutter speed.
3) Take picture.

To do this on a Nikon...

1) Consult the stars, some tea leaves, and the innards of a freshly-slaughtered lamb to see if you can use the old manual lens you've got mounted with your camera.
2) If not, try to decipher the ancient and mystic runes one of the myriad, vexing charts available on the subject of Nikon lens/camera compatibility.
3) If the answer ye seek wish to remain dark unto thee, give up.

To do this on a Canon...

1) Old lenses?
2) Que?
11-17-2009, 12:25 AM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by cbaytan Quote
When K-7 just came out for $1300, and K20D supplies wasn't out yet and it was selling for $650 in the bhphotovideo, he just remembers those coupla months ago prices, after I read persistent banding problem of K-7 with high ISO's I've decided to get a K20D, even though that kind of price difference is not an issue for me. Damn with the video, But I hope I am doing right.

Also I heard here K20D jpeg results are better than K-7..
As a K-7 owner, I find the JPEG results just fine (although I tend to favor Raw usage in my workflow anyway, for the added versatility.)

I'm not aware of any high ISO banding issue - haven't seen any example in my own shots. The K-7 has slightly higher luminance noise than the K20D at high ISO, but also has slightly higher detail and slightly lower chroma noise.

That said, they're both a lot of camera for the money. If you like the ergonomics of the K20D and don't need the added features (faster / longer bursts, better AF, better white balance, movie mode, etc.) of the K-7 then you just saved a little cash to put towards LBA. ;-)
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