[digitalCG]

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My two year old Uniross Hybrio (2100 mAh rated Eneloop style cell available in UK) have been fine since yesterday, fired off around 100 test shots, a few mins of video and a few minutes of Live View - not moved off green yet. Also tried two brand new sets of Eneloops, both fine over a quick test.

Kx serial begins 3430...

With knowledge gained from my RC days using SC-size NiCd then NiMh, I believe a lot of current problems could be down to poor quality chargers - just this week my old man donated two brand new sets of Duracell 2650 mAh he said were DOA. He'd 'charged' them, put them in his Canon P&S (dead a la reported Kx probs) then ran them in a radio for about 35-40 mins before it too conked out.

I simply put them on a decent four channel delta peak charger, both sets charged fine and he's getting them back tomorrow

[noou]

My two year old Uniross Hybrio (2100 mAh rated Eneloop style cell available in UK) have been fine since yesterday, fired off around 100 test shots, a few mins of video and a few minutes of Live View - not moved off green yet. Also tried two brand new sets of Eneloops, both fine over a quick test.

Kx serial begins 3430...

With knowledge gained from my RC days using SC-size NiCd then NiMh, I believe a lot of current problems could be down to poor quality chargers - just this week my old man donated two brand new sets of Duracell 2650 mAh he said were DOA. He'd 'charged' them, put them in his Canon P&S (dead a la reported Kx probs) then ran them in a radio for about 35-40 mins before it too conked out.

I simply put them on a decent four channel delta peak charger, both sets charged fine and he's getting them back tomorrow

i agree chargers are very important, and I don't own the ubiquitous La Cross BC-900... still I have a supposedly good Sony BCG-34HRMF4 four independent channels charger, with battery refresh functionality. I also tried charging my batteries in other 2 dumber charger with no differences: the K-x only works with my 2 years old Uniross 2500mAh, while all my other batteries don't, even my brand new GP 2700mAh.
At the same time, all of them work in my P&S, except for the Uniross's which are the most worn out... Paradoxical.

[digitalCG]

...all of them work in my P&S, except for the Uniross's which are the most worn out... Paradoxical.

Have you tried cycling the new cells a few times? Back in my RC days you could get different grades of battery packs. The cheapest came assembled straight from the factory, whilst the most expensive packs contained loose cells cycled several times to stabilise before being closely matched for internal resistance, runtime and voltage. The difference between the two was noticable and most packs (of any kind) continued to improve for at least the first 10-15 cycles... RC has moved on to LiPo cells now (much like proprietary camera batteries) as these have better discharge characteristics than NiMh.

Whilst some of the histrionics* I'm reading could be down to poor cells or chargers, the fact is that some claim to be struggling even with the supplied Lithiums and that truly is worrying.

Whether we're looking at manufacturing defect, poor calibration or quality control, firmware wobbles, a magic dance not prescribed in the manual or some form of user error is still open for debate. Whatever the case, I hope those who are struggling get a solution soon. I plan to put a few 'proper' clicks on the K-x tomorrow and will report any battery life or battery meter problems....



*Disclaimer: Let's face it, even the 'entry-level' Kx isn't a casual investment and you'd very rightly be miffed if it didn't work, but there's a right and a wrong way of going about things...

[noou]

Have you tried cycling the new cells a few times? Back in my RC days you could get different grades of battery packs. The cheapest came assembled straight from the factory, whilst the most expensive packs contained loose cells cycled several times to stabilise before being closely matched for internal resistance, runtime and voltage. The difference between the two was noticable and most packs (of any kind) continued to improve for at least the first 10-15 cycles...

sure: I cycled them at least 5 times, without success... unless one calls 50 shots a success...

btw, since I'm willing to buy a new charger, which one would you suggest?

everyone here states that eneloops are the best, however i'd have to buy them on ebay, with long waiting... on the other hand a local shop sells uniross hybrios. do you think it would be safe to buy them instead?

[OutOfFocus]

everyone here states that eneloops are the best, however i'd have to buy them on ebay, with long waiting... on the other hand a local shop sells uniross hybrios. do you think it would be safe to buy them instead?

According to this thread at CandlePower forums, it looks like hybrios are a rebadged version of several different cells, including at one time eneloops. Maybe you're lucky and the ones near you are really eneloops.

It also mentions the eneloops are (were) available at Euronics stores.

[digitalCG]

sure: I cycled them at least 5 times, without success... unless one calls 50 shots a success...

btw, since I'm willing to buy a new charger, which one would you suggest?

50 shots is not a success my friend Using box fresh eneloops I took around 110 yesterday, including lots of menu diving to experiment with settings, plus a couple of minutes of video and the indicator didn't move from greeen. As for chargers...

For truly difficult cells I still have a fancy programmable charger from my RC days with soft start, false peak protection, adjustable charge current and delta peak in addtition to programmable discharge functions. Total overkill for AA cells However, in general use one of these has done a good enough charging job for me the last three years. If exchanging your K-x isn't an option I'd still recommend eneloops or similar as your next port of call.

[cbaytan]

well, as for me, the only working rechargeables I could find (didn't personally try hybrids yet) are the most worn out in my possession: 2 years old Uniross 2500mAh. On the contrary, my brand new GP 2700mAh don't work.
However, I updated the list a little bit.

Don't use GP 2700's, they're designed for toys, they create too much current power that drains batteries real quick, resulting a quick discharge, no good for cameras, cameras need lot more steady current power, say a steady 1700-2000mAh is more than enough for them.. I gave my 2700's 2500's away to my friend with kids, we are all happy now, especially the kids having remote controlled cars.

[noou]

Don't use GP 2700's, they're designed for toys, they create too much current power that drains batteries real quick, resulting a quick discharge, no good for cameras, cameras need lot more steady current power, say a steady 1700-2000mAh is more than enough for them.. I gave my 2700's 2500's away to my friend with kids, we are all happy now, especially the kids having remote controlled cars.

good to know... i assumed that being so powerful and generally well respected they'd been good also for my K-x.

According to this thread at CandlePower forums, it looks like hybrios are a rebadged version of several different cells, including at one time eneloops. Maybe you're lucky and the ones near you are really eneloops.

It also mentions the eneloops are (were) available at Euronics stores.

I'll have a look this afternoon: there's an Euronics store close to my place.

50 shots is not a success my friend Using box fresh eneloops I took around 110 yesterday, including lots of menu diving to experiment with settings, plus a couple of minutes of video and the indicator didn't move from greeen.

i envy you a little bit
did you ever tried other cells? how was your experience?

As for chargers...

For truly difficult cells I still have a fancy programmable charger from my RC days with soft start, false peak protection, adjustable charge current and delta peak in addtition to programmable discharge functions. Total overkill for AA cells However, in general use one of these has done a good enough charging job for me the last three years. If exchanging your K-x isn't an option I'd still recommend eneloops or similar as your next port of call.

i think i'll buy a La Crosse BC-700, which is quite cheap, together with a set of Eneloops.

Thank you all.

[pentaxpup]

Here are my batteries and results:

1. Duracell NiMh 1800mAh
Red indication then full green after did LiveView hack once and stayed full green afterward. Took over 400+ pics and some very short movies with lots of photo review on the LCD after each shot.

2. Eneloops
Half full indication then full green after did LiveView once. I did not use it beyond this point.

3. Lacross NiMh 2700mAh (came with the BC-9009 charger)
Half full indication and COULD NOT get it to full green after doing LiveView hack. I left it in the camera anyway. The next morning, it was full green and stayed full since then after 50+ shots.

[noou]

Here are my batteries and results:

1. Duracell NiMh 1800mAh
Red indication then full green after did LiveView hack once and stayed full green afterward. Took over 400+ pics and some very short movies with lots of photo review on the LCD after each shot.

2. Eneloops
Half full indication then full green after did LiveView once. I did not use it beyond this point.

3. Lacross NiMh 2700mAh (came with the BC-9009 charger)
Half full indication and COULD NOT get it to full green after doing LiveView hack. I left it in the camera anyway. The next morning, it was full green and stayed full since then after 50+ shots.

thanks for your report! I added the result about the Duracells, which seems the only thorough test.

let us know more about your experience with the Eneloops and Lacrosse 2700mAh (i.e. how many shots before being depleted)

[noou]

my preliminary results with the new firmware v1.01:
previously non-working batteries seem to work
working batteries that resulted in camera turning off, even with actual residual charge, now can turn the camera on and go orange.

so far I'd say I'm pretty satisfied
the test goes on, though...