[440roadrunner]

I recently bought a nice K10D (I'm a Canon Xt/ 30D/ 40D shooter) to try and improve use with manual glass

Last night I was playing with the ceiling fixture in low light, shooting at slow shutter speed with antishake on and off. On the magnified LCD, I could not see much difference. How do you tell "if it's working?" Any noise/ movement etc in the camera? I do know about the indicator in the viewfinder


Also, are there recommended split prism viewfinders available, either from Pentax or aftermarket? If so, do they affect metering as do the Canon replacements?


(Side note---I've got a pile of manual glass, but my 40D metering is almost useless--you have to chip it into submission in manual mode. With my PK and Tamron Adaptall stuff, now I can use auto aperture at the very least and get decent AV mode metering with the K10D)

[Marc Sabatella]

If you're not seeing any shake without SR, then you're not testing a slow enough shutter speed. If you're seeing lots of shake in both, you're testing at too slow a shutter speed. But there should be a sizable middle ground where there is big difference, obvious even without zooming in very far on the LCD.

I wouldn't test by shooting at the ceiling, though - no one is going to be able to hold a camera all that steadily in that position. Not sure the SR system deals well with being help in that position, either.

Katzeye is the most well known "brand name" focus screen; google that for tons of references to what issues if any people find with it. There are also a variety of cheaper options, mostly from China, many sold by "jinfinance" or something like tha on Ebay, so that gives you another term to search on.

[Ash]

Welcome to the forum.
Where you'll see the difference is by testing it at a shutter speed of 1-3 stops slower than (1/focal length). And it should not be for a moving object, just for camera shake.

[440roadrunner]

I should have mentioned I had a small 35-135mm zoom at 135, I think I was down to 1/15--1/30 or so, so I would have thought that would have instigated shake


Am I correct in assuming that I ONLY will see it in the shot, and not anything in the viewfinder? (Used to my Canon)

I've got a Tamron 60B 300mm 2.8. Maybe I'll go out tonight at dusk and play around with that thing.

[Lowell Goudge]

I should have mentioned I had a small 35-135mm zoom at 135, I think I was down to 1/15--1/30 or so, so I would have thought that would have instigated shake


Am I correct in assuming that I ONLY will see it in the shot, and not anything in the viewfinder? (Used to my Canon)

I've got a Tamron 60B 300mm 2.8. Maybe I'll go out tonight at dusk and play around with that thing.

Note that with In camera (i.e. sensor compensated) SR, you don't see it in the view finder.

your canon had in the lens shake reduction which shows a stabilized image in the view finder because it is after the shake reduction process

In camera SR the view finder is via the mirror, which is in front of the sensor and any image stability with SR.

On the K7 with optical preview you can see it on the LCD

[Fogel70]

You will see a symbol (far left) in the view finder when SR is active.

When you half-press the shutter button it takes about 0.5 sec before the SR is fully active. So if you take the picture before you see the symbol in the view finder the picture will not be stabilized.

[440roadrunner]

You will see a symbol (far left) in the view finder when SR is active.

When you half-press the shutter button it takes about 0.5 sec before the SR is fully active. So if you take the picture before you see the symbol in the view finder the picture will not be stabilized.

Thanks I'll try to remember.


I am aware that you cannot see it in the viewfinder. I think I'm going to like this camera "for what it is" that is, I can't afford to completely switch from Canon, but I think it'll really be nice for some of my MF stuff