A couple of things about SR:
- It has to be engaged in order to work. If the little shaky hand is not visible in the viewfinder, SR is not engaged.
- SR doesn't work for moving subjects
- You can't pan and use SR. The SR uses an inertial sensor. Both your camera and subject have to be stationary.
- SR should not be used when the camera is on a tripod. The SR system will introduce motion if none is present. Turn SR off when on a tripod -or- use the 2 second mirror-up delay (automatically disengages SR).
- SR is has limitations. You are not going to be able to hand-hold your FA 200 at 1/30s.
Are we sure its the SR:
- In focus?
- Adequate DOF?
- Lens sharp at that aperture?
Comparison with flash shots don't tell the whole story unless the shooting aperture is the same. Most of your "A" lenses are pretty fast glass with narrow DOF. If focus is even a little off, your results may not be up to your standard.
Now before you scoff at the focus issue, you might want ask about how you do your manual focus and also consider the limitations of manual focus on your dSLR. When I first got my K10D, I was often disappointed with the sharpness from my legacy glass (most of what I own). That is, until, I figured out that I was missing focus much of the time.
Two quick points:
- Focus confirm using the AF system is accurate, but not very precise (at least on the K10D). Much of the time, it is off (+/-) just a little.
- Focus using the stock focus screen is also generally accurate, but not very precise. This is true even when the eyepiece diopter is properly dialed in. The apparent DOF in the viewfinder is about the same as with the lens aperture at about f/3.5. Translation? Fine focus is futile without a focus aid (split-image or microprism).
How do I know these things? I did some testing using both the stock screen and the aftermarket Katz Eye screen.
Steve