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01-25-2010, 03:34 AM   #16
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Also very much looking to see this. with the K20D I have no issues in ISO1600, I currently do NR in Lightroom 2.6.
I find that the ISO3200 results with lightroom are not acceptable for much.
I would like to see if I can use ISO3200 by using your methods.

01-25-2010, 10:30 AM   #17
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I think I'm going to break up the tutorial into three parts.
This way I can begin posting my workflow much sooner than later.

For paulesecoces, here is some ISO3200 taken just moments ago on my desk for you to look at. I took the image to post in another discussion, but the fact remains that the K20 is a very capable camera at this level.



And a crop

Last edited by JohnBee; 01-26-2010 at 06:10 PM.
01-26-2010, 05:09 PM   #18
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Usually I'm content to use LR's noise reduction to pretty good effect and let bygones be bygones. However, your approach seems to generate excellent ISO4000 results - I would love to see a completed tutorial
01-26-2010, 05:21 PM   #19
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whoa, those are huge images. maybe apply the [wide] tag?

01-26-2010, 05:34 PM   #20
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I also apply NR selectively. For example, almost any NR I have tried will kill the detail in a scene with underbrush or distant foliage. I usually select out the sky or walls and apply NR aggressively to those areas. With faces I am a bit more judicious. With foliage, I do little or none. (Note for outdoor photos with leaves, etc., I am usually reducing noise in a scan of film, rather than compensating for high ISO)

I also find that working with Noise Ninja profiling each selected area separately often gives me results which remove less detail.

For some reason, Noise Ninja works better with selected layers in Photoshop. The native NR in Photoshop seems to leave more noticeable borders between the areas selected for NR and those without or with less.
01-26-2010, 06:06 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
I also apply NR selectively. For example, almost any NR I have tried will kill the detail in a scene with underbrush or distant foliage. I usually select out the sky or walls and apply NR aggressively to those areas. With faces I am a bit more judicious. With foliage, I do little or none. (Note for outdoor photos with leaves, etc., I am usually reducing noise in a scan of film, rather than compensating for high ISO)

I also find that working with Noise Ninja profiling each selected area separately often gives me results which remove less detail.

For some reason, Noise Ninja works better with selected layers in Photoshop. The native NR in Photoshop seems to leave more noticeable borders between the areas selected for NR and those without or with less.
Yea some really good stuff in there(your comment)
I've been working with advanced NR techniques these past few years, and one thing I've discovered was how effective and powerful Photoshop layers and NR compositing methods can actually be in final output.
Its become prevalent in some cases that at times I look back in disbelief over the the transformations between the originals and the final.
Photoshop has truly become a blessing to digital photography in cases like these.

However my latest NR weapon has truly become Topaz Denoise.
That plugin is bordering on supernatural in terms of noise management, and I don't think I'll ever say enough about it.
I've dedicated a good deal of my tutorial focus purely for this application because I think much of my results are attributed to this amazing tool.
I too used to use Noise Ninja(have for years) but Denoise has all but forced me to hang-up that application because it there simply is no competition between the two in terms of final output(a must see).

I hope this doesn't like like stealth marketing, I really hate to sound like I'm pushing products in the forum.
But... in cases such as these, we we find something as valuable as this, the only thing left to do is tell others about it, and so my hands are tied.
But for the record, I have no affiliations with this company or it's product.

PS. I've just finished processing some cast over foliage(evergreens) at ISO3200 using Denoise. If you're interested I could post some examples of what it can do under these conditions.
It's up to you, though I was going to add foliage to my tutorial because I think it makes an excellent candidate as a tough noise subject.

QuoteQuote:
mtroute whoa, those are huge images. maybe apply the [wide] tag?
Hi mtroute, do you know if that tag in in effect in the forums? and if so, the proper bb code to use it?
I typically don't like posting images of this size, but since my last images fell under the resize script, I was under the impression that these would do the same.

*******
Okay I found it! thanks

Last edited by JohnBee; 01-26-2010 at 06:17 PM.
01-26-2010, 07:51 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by netuser Quote
I have a k-7 (had k20) and I'm quite eager to see your tutorial.

(Hope it will be all step by step (noob proof ) and with some capture images to ilustrate)

Thanks
I dont think it would matter whatever camera is used here. NR softwares have truely helped whatever a camera's shortcomings are. I see that workflow has been shorten as well. I don't think this method would help the really lazy people or the ones that dont have the time to do a bit of post-processing.

but anyhow, I think I'm on my way on acquiring this Topaz software, probably the whole package and not just Denoise.
01-27-2010, 07:23 PM   #23
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Thanks for your tutorial, John.

QuoteOriginally posted by JohnBee Quote
I never anticipated this could be helpful for K-7 users, but when I think about it, the methods are universal in nature....
In contrast to the K20D, the K-7 does not require a treat for magenta tinging. So K-7 users will skip this part of your process.

01-28-2010, 01:55 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Class A Quote
In contrast to the K20D, the K-7 does not require a treat for magenta tinging. So K-7 users will skip this part of your process.
You're welcome.
On the issue of the K-7, I too thought it did not need this, however... I found the following post by GordonBGood

QuoteQuote:
The first version will only support K20D DNG's and only uncompressed DNG's as in preferably the original DNG's from the K20D, although I can also support the uncompressed DNG's from the Adobe DNG Converter application. It is a fair amount of extra work to support all the variations of DNG loss less compression although not so much to support just the one (simplest) variation as produced by the K-7, if it appears that the K-7 has this same magenta edges problem. I will also add PEF file support for both the K20D or the K-7 once Dominique is happy with the results for the DNG files.
On the plus side, I think the util. is only needed on ISO4000 or higher images.
ISO3200 or less images seem quite stable on either camera.
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