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01-13-2010, 03:32 AM   #1
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Another ISO4000 K20D Image

In a recent post, the question came up on my K20D high ISO PP workflow(noise control) which in turn culminated into a tutorial project. However, as the image in question cannot be used for a public tutorial, I looked around in my personal folders and found a few candidates.


ISO4000/+Ev Push, K20D, 28mm AUTO CHINON@2.8, Natural lighting.

Summary:
This image suffered from magenta tinging, and all three noise types(pattern/random/banding).
It was processed and published(successfully) as a full page print.


Last edited by Damn Brit; 01-24-2010 at 04:30 PM. Reason: added imgwide tags
01-13-2010, 03:35 AM   #2
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I'll find and add more image over the course of the next few days. After which , I'll wait for whoever cares, to help choose three candidates for the tutorial.

Thx
01-13-2010, 03:39 AM   #3
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Definitely good enough for web viewing, but with some PP work, probably good enough for printing in some instances.
01-13-2010, 03:46 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ash Quote
Definitely good enough for web viewing, but with some PP work, probably good enough for printing in some instances.
Yes, it printed okay. I published it at/or around 260ppi on an 8x10, and it held-up nicely.
But as this is nothing but a personal image, I really didn't put much(30 mins) into it, so to speak.
it may not be the best ideal image due to the nature of the subject(soften skin).
But I think it does offer a good opportunity to go through noise control methods with.

01-13-2010, 07:40 AM   #5
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Sorry if I've missed it, but where is this tutorial. I'm taking pictures at a high school swim/dive meet, and need high ISO (1/250, f/2.8, ISO 1600-ISO3200). I really could use some help because they are noisy.
01-13-2010, 03:07 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by klh Quote
Sorry if I've missed it, but where is this tutorial. I'm taking pictures at a high school swim/dive meet, and need high ISO (1/250, f/2.8, ISO 1600-ISO3200). I really could use some help because they are noisy.
Hi,

I'm still working on the tutorial.
Though I haven't found as many ISO4000 images as I would have hoped for as we normally limit our shots to 3200 with the k20's.

Having said that, if you need something fast, I could jot down a point form of the steps I typically take to PP our high ISO images.

Let me know know if your interested.
01-13-2010, 11:18 PM   #7
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I updated the sample(calibrated my monitor).
Hope the colors make more sense now.
01-14-2010, 07:12 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by JohnBee Quote
Hi,
Having said that, if you need something fast, I could jot down a point form of the steps I typically take to PP our high ISO images.

Let me know know if your interested.
Would like to see that please

01-15-2010, 07:04 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by Just Me Quote
Would like to see that please
Okay no problem

I have found a great deal of success in using advanced noise control methods in Photoshop CS by combining quick masks and layers with a small plugin called Topaz Denoise.

A typical workflow(which begins with RAW data), is as follows:
  • The first step usually involves a quick assessment for best candidates(in cases of multiples), and to identify what what's what in terms of noise and editing.
  • I then follow-up with Gordon B's magenta tinge corrector(if necessary) and put the images through ACR with neutral settings(or as close to 0 as possible). Which also means no sharpening and no luminance NR. Though I do use color noise NR to help take the edge off prior to advanced processing.
  • Following this, I get the images into Photoshop and carry out all of my image edits before anything else(note: this does not imply tonal, contrast and color corrections). This part of the process is to get the image up to snuff and readied for use as a base layer. Which you should keep in your layers pallet at all time.
  • Having identified the noise types and levels in the beginning of my process, we now have what's needed(information) to create the necessary layers for each NR pass needed to correct the image. This in turn, allows the editor to work with each area(of the image) discretely as opposed to the usual global NR approach which affects the entire image rather than only a part of it. And though most NR tools do offer selectively brushes for noise or detail control(see Noise Ninja) they do not provide editors with a means to apply NR discretely or variably throughout the scene. Which is an imperative step in dealing with noise with any degree of accuracy.
  • Once the NR layers are created, we can now proceed to apply NR for each area of the image on each individual layer(ie. background layer: heavy NR to counter banding, subject layer: less NR to favor detail and so on and so forth.
  • Once you have all of your layers(areas) created as needed, you can then composite a final layer by painting in each NR applied layer into your canvas using quick masks.
  • The end result is of course an image with finely controlled NR applied throughout the scene. While each layer will provide you with precise fine tuning control for as long as you keep the image structure intact. You also get the added benefit of masking in original textures whenever and where needed,in order to maintain the integrity of the original image. Which is quite possibly, the most beneficial aspect of this approach over all other NR methods.
Well there you have it(in a nutshell).
This is how many of the great digital photo editors/developers pull off amazing results with high ISO output in Photoshop.
And though I can tell you straight-away, that this hardly does justice to the fine art of advanced noise reduction with Photoshop, let alone justify how easy and it is to do. You can be assured once you get this process down, you will never look back at noise the same again.

If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

PS. I've been hard at work on putting together a step by step walkthrough of this process which should be ready for posting sometime this weekend(if all goes well).

Last edited by JohnBee; 01-15-2010 at 08:23 AM.
01-15-2010, 04:27 PM   #10
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Thank you JohnBee. Much appreciated.

Topaz Denoise is a very useful little tool. Have started using it recently after using Imagenomic for a few years.

Will definitely have to play around with a few high ISO shots now
01-24-2010, 03:01 PM   #11
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Another ISO4000, shot in single light source(notebook) low light.
to be used in tutorial also.


Last edited by Damn Brit; 01-24-2010 at 04:31 PM. Reason: added imgwide tags
01-24-2010, 03:59 PM   #12
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Thanks for the tips. I will have to practice with some of my diving pictures. I keep the ISO limited to 3200, but they can still use a lot of help.
01-24-2010, 04:07 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by klh Quote
Thanks for the tips. I will have to practice with some of my diving pictures. I keep the ISO limited to 3200, but they can still use a lot of help.
If you're shooting a K20D, then you can expect very good results at ISO3200. However, I think it's also worth saying that getting them will require a bit of finesse on a number of fronts in terms of preparation to ensure you get the most of your samples.

Whatever the case, I'd say you can expect double the IQ of the samples I've posted in terms of detail and consistency at ISO3200.
01-24-2010, 04:26 PM   #14
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I have a k-7 (had k20) and I'm quite eager to see your tutorial.

(Hope it will be all step by step (noob proof ) and with some capture images to ilustrate)

Thanks
01-25-2010, 03:24 AM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by netuser Quote
I have a k-7 (had k20) and I'm quite eager to see your tutorial.

(Hope it will be all step by step (noob proof ) and with some capture images to ilustrate)

Thanks
You have my word!
I never anticipated this could be helpful for K-7 users, but when I think about it, the methods are universal in nature and so I guess it would be just as helpful for anyone working with NR in their PP workflow.

PS. I've been hard at work on the tutorial, which turned out to be a little more demanding than I though. But... it is still very much in progress and I'll keep posting updates here along the way.
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