If there's enough interest I'll make a pictorial tutorial, but for now, here's a written description of what I did. I also express no warranty should you or your camera become malfunctioning from doing this tutorial.
My pictures show the hack-o-matic connection, but believe me it's a precision process to get it working.
1. I used
this page as reference, as that's the connector the K100d, and probably all other non-HDMI cameras, use for the A/V port. It's called an AGOX 8-pin connector (or so says Wikipedia), and it is not the same as a Kodak U-8 connector or a micro-usb.
2. Take the A/V cable and saw off the AGOX end, so you're left with about 1/4 inch of just the metal end and the little plastic insert (the part that sticks into the port). You need to make sure the plastic part and the little wires inside stay intact and don't get lost.
3. Cut about two inches off the A/V cable and strip out the stranded ground wiring. Peel it apart so you're left with a bunch of individual wire strands, which should be about the thickness of a human hair.
4. Use your fingernail or small pliers and carefully push out the black plastic piece out of the cut AGOX connector. Hopefully the little gold wires are all intact. You should now have a little black plastic piece with wires and a metal shell.
5. With the metal shell, there's a square opening on one side. Take two or three of the ground wire strands and braid them through the hole in a 'U' fashion, then twist the 'U' together so it becomes an "I" . This will act as a ground point and also allow you to pull out the connector once it's been plugged into the A/V port (think of it as a pull cord for a tub drain).
5. With the black plastic piece, using an exacto knife, carefully remove pins 6 and 7. This should leave you with only three ground pins. Use the link in step 1 for reference on pin assignment.
6. Using an exacto knife, at the cut end of the plastic piece (read: opposite side that would directly insert into the A/V port), very carefully lift up one of the remaining gold wires but don't completely pull it out of it's groove. The back end of the gold wire should be out and tilted. Once you've done that, carefully tuck one of the ground wire strands underneath the gold wire, then push the gold wire back down into the groove. The ground wire strand should now be resting underneath the gold wire.
7. Repeat step 6 for the two remaining ground wires.
8. Cut a strip of translucent tape, about an 1/8-inch wide by 3/4-inch long and slowly wrap it around the cut end of the plastic piece. this will keep the gold wire and the ground wire in place. Make sure that the end that plugs into the A/V port still has exposed gold wire.
9. This is the hardest part. You'll need to slide the black plastic piece back into the metal sleeve. It requires patience, as it's easy to knock the black ground wires out from underneath the gold wires.If all goes well you should have a bunch of little wires sticking out the back of the piece, with a bit of tape too.
10. To help secure the wires down, I tried to melt a bit of the tape. i used hot wax, but looking back a hair dryer on low would have probably worked better. You don't want to melt that black plastic piece.
11. Carefully plug the hack-o-matic cable into the A/V port, then turn the camera on. Play around with the ground wire strands, connecting and unconnecting each one together, you're trying to isolate the one wire strand that causes the screen to turn on and off.
12. When you have found the one wire, separate it from the other wires and position/secure it as shown in my last picture in post #11.
13. Then tape some foil as shown in post #11. With the camera on, play around with the door and verify operation. You may have to add or remove foil. Opening the door should cause the screen to turn on, closing the door should cause the screen to turn off.