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02-12-2010, 08:13 PM   #16
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The horizon indicator not being very well-calibrated seems to be extremely common. When I get around to sending in mine for general servicing and clean up around the 1-year mark, I'm going to ask that they adjust it. I do hope they add the ability to do that myself in a firmware update but I figure the most effective way to vote for them to do that is to give the repair department work.

02-14-2010, 12:06 AM   #17
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It turns out that the shake reduction problem was my own ( user error ), I do however have a new problem that is either camera or card when shooting video.

I get about 1:16 to 1:23 minutes of video and it ends, up comes the hourglass and that's the end of that. The cards are 16 gig class 6. I also realized as I started the first video that it said I had 8 minutes of time available on the card and after that 400 plus meg video was on there I tried again and it said 9 plus minutes of recording time.

Is my class 6 cards not fast enough or??
02-14-2010, 12:09 AM   #18
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No they're not..

I bought a Sandisk Extreme Class 10 (30MB/s) 16GB - problem solved.
02-14-2010, 12:21 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by sledger Quote
No they're not..

I bought a Sandisk Extreme Class 10 (30MB/s) 16GB - problem solved.
Well that's nice, I just tried another 16 and an 8 and got 44, and 60 seconds pretty much verifying that.

Thanks.

Edit: I went looking up testing stats for the Transcend SDHC Class 6 cards I am using and they are averaging more than fast enough at 13-16 MB/S if all the camera is writing is 9 MB/s

Am I missing something here?


Last edited by KansasHorizons.com; 02-14-2010 at 12:38 AM.
02-14-2010, 02:34 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by KansasHorizons.com Quote

Edit: I went looking up testing stats for the Transcend SDHC Class 6 cards I am using and they are averaging more than fast enough at 13-16 MB/S if all the camera is writing is 9 MB/s

Am I missing something here?

From my experience, I found that only Sandisk cards work as stated, so for video I only use Sandisk Extreme III or IV cards. And, by quick search on Google for tests on Transcend SDHC Class 6, I found results of 8 Mb/s for write speed, which is not enough, as Pentax suggest that write speed for K-7 video should be at least 10 Mb/s. It seems that the speed of those varies and its not up to standard. I tried Sandisk Ultra with 10 Mb/s speed, and it's also to slow. It could be that cards from one of the renowned manufacturers could also work, but I stick with Sandisk Extreme.
02-14-2010, 09:46 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jadran Quote
I tried Sandisk Ultra with 10 Mb/s speed, and it's also to slow. It could be that cards from one of the renowned manufacturers could also work, but I stick with Sandisk Extreme.
I did see that SanDisk Ultra II 16 GB Class 4 cards are rated at 15 mb/s and then noticed on another camera forum that some people had the same problem with class 6 cards and used this one in the 8 gig version and they worked fine so for less than half of the price of the class 10's I may give those a whirl unless someone else using the 15 mb/s has had issues.
02-14-2010, 11:48 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jadran Quote
Reading again Op's message, I see he was using manual focusing 500mm mirror lens, which makes the determination of proper focus calibration even harder. Is is more the accident then the rule that manual focusing lens matches the "focus confirmation" of the camera. I have 4 MF lensed and used them on 3 different bodies, and never did they match the focus confirmation by the camera. Even more, any of those lenses needed different amount of adjustment on same camera body (though some of them really minor). So, to determine if the focusing of the camera is malfunctioning, you have to make proper focus test with several lenses, make needed adjustment, and only if achieving focus is not possible, or difference with camera confirmation is really significant, you should consider that something is wrong with camera.

What i am saying that you should not be discouraged by the first not so successful shoots, and gave up on camera easily.
Either way, saying it is an issue with the lens is wrong. If we were talking about a centering issue I would agree, but that is not the case here. Look at it this way: All that is happening when a lens is being focused is either some, or often all, of the optical elements of the lens are being moved forward or back. Issues of front or back focusing on the part of an AF system are purely related to errors of the focus sensor. Whither it is an adjustment issue or a design flaw is the only real argument.

I personally don't remember hearing about front or back focusing back in the days of film cameras, But maybe it's me. Come to think of it, I don't remember hearing of such issues with *istd era cameras either. This whole needing to calibrate your camera for each lens crap didn't seem to be much of an issue until around the time the K10 came along, and it didn't seem be a big issue until the K20. It seems a bit odd that the K20 is the first Pentax camera that allowed user adjustment. Tell me this, is it that the K20 is the first camera that could potentially allow user based adjustment, or is it the first one that really needed it? It also seems odd that these problems seemed to appear in quantity for the first time right around the Hoya takeover. But like I said, maybe it's me.
02-15-2010, 01:54 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Beswick Quote
Tell me this, is it that the K20 is the first camera that could potentially allow user based adjustment, or is it the first one that really needed it? It also seems odd that these problems seemed to appear in quantity for the first time right around the Hoya takeover. But like I said, maybe it's me.
Nothing to do with Hoya, or Pentax even. Latest Nikon and Canon cameras have microfocus adjustment ability also. I think that Sony was first to include this option for consumers. If you take a look at forums, back/front focus problems are always related to lenses, not cameras. But, yes, it's AF system errors.

It existed in film era also, but there is technical explanation why it wasn't so prominent (something to do with film thickens/curvature which is more forgiving to focusing errors). Maybe someone could explain this better.

02-15-2010, 08:06 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jadran Quote
Nothing to do with Hoya, or Pentax even. Latest Nikon and Canon cameras have microfocus adjustment ability also. I think that Sony was first to include this option for consumers. If you take a look at forums, back/front focus problems are always related to lenses, not cameras. But, yes, it's AF system errors.
Let me state my point a different way. Let's say I take an AF lens, put it on my Super Program, and manually focus it and the photo turns out as it was supposed to. If I take that same lens, put it on my K10D, and it has focus issues, then the fault lies with the camera. It does not matter if every other lens I own focuses properly on my K10 and that lens is the only one that does not.

QuoteQuote:
It existed in film era also, but there is technical explanation why it wasn't so prominent (something to do with film thickens/curvature which is more forgiving to focusing errors). Maybe someone could explain this better.
Either you didn't put a lot of thought into the "curvature" statement or you have never even looked inside a 35mm camera.
02-16-2010, 01:47 AM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Beswick Quote
Either you didn't put a lot of thought into the "curvature" statement or you have never even looked inside a 35mm camera.
I've been using film cameras for more then 20 years. From 35mm to MF (medium format). Please, try to search Google or some other search engine for "curvature" and film "thickness" relation to AF before making such statement. I don't have time nor the will for useless discussions.

Last edited by Jadran; 02-16-2010 at 02:17 AM.
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