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03-10-2010, 07:27 AM   #1
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Metering and focus points on K20D

I did a (albeit quick) search and could not find a specific answer to this question so here we go:

When I shoot people, I usually aim for the eyes using the center focus point and then (while keeping the button half pressed) recompose for the shot. This seemed (using global metering) to be the quicker than selecting a focus point for different types of people shots and changing the focus point to the different framing.

But a thought occurred to me: What if I am shooting a high contrast (Wedding dress, dark background) scene and I want to use center weighted or spot metering to expose for the dress, or make sure the face is properly exposed? Leaving the focus point at the center and aim first, compose second, would screw up the metering, depending on the area differential.

Now I suppose I could use the handy green button, but if I knew the spot metering followed the selected focus point, I would not have to worry about the exposure for the desired/selected area.

IE: aim for the dress, expose for the dress. or aim for the eyes/face, and I know that will be properly "lit".

Or am I just over thinking the whole thing?

03-10-2010, 07:59 AM   #2
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Unlike many subjects, I don't have a lot to say about metering, but...

I generally use center-weighted, mainly because that's the default when I use my many manual lenses. My experience from many years with many center-weighted cameras is that high-contrast scenes are tricky. Your meter wants to see neutral gray. Meter for a white dress, or a dark shadow, or a light or dark face, and they will be rendered neutral gray. My trick is to have something nearby that's about the same brightness as neutral gray -- best is a gray card, but maybe it's my shirt sleeve, or the ground near me, etc. And of course, bracket.
03-10-2010, 08:00 AM   #3
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Without being a pro I would think you could spot meter the exposure and hit the exposure lock button them do your focus like you have been. Seems to me that would lock the exposure where you wanted it and allow you to do the focus where you wanted also. Of course I have been known to have some hairbrained ideas but this still makes sense to me.
03-10-2010, 08:12 AM   #4
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Just to be clear: I am asking if anyone knows if the K20d's metering system (In spot and center weight) follow the focus point if you select something other than center?

Also, thanks for the replies and suggestions.

03-10-2010, 08:46 AM   #5
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From memory, you have a custom setting for something like that...

That's custom setting nb.7 : Link AF point and AE. (but it works with multi-segment only, not CW or spot)

Used with Custom Nb.6 AE-L with AF Locked, it approaches what you want...

But for wedding dresses, humm, don't know if it will work...
03-10-2010, 09:31 AM   #6
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Thanks for the tip. I'll try and give it a whirl this weekend.
03-10-2010, 10:19 AM   #7
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Wedding dresses are a bear with center-weighted metering. It has been discussed in detail on threads about flash metering, but multisegment or averaging or a carefully chosen spot or does better than center-weighting on a white dress or shirt. I use center weighting a lot, but I now remind myself to pick something else for any gig with a lot of white clothing in the subject.
03-10-2010, 10:21 PM   #8
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
Wedding dresses are a bear with center-weighted metering. It has been discussed in detail on threads about flash metering, but multisegment or averaging or a carefully chosen spot or does better than center-weighting on a white dress or shirt. I use center weighting a lot, but I now remind myself to pick something else for any gig with a lot of white clothing in the subject.
Try going back to basics. Use manual exposure. You don't need to worry about your AE-L timer going off. Meter once for every lighting change. End of problem. I have not shot a wedding since I got an auto camera, but I shot a few with a KX (film, not digital). I never had exposure problems. I still use "Sunny 16" a lot.

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