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03-30-2010, 10:07 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by frank Quote
Now I'm much happier w/ the manual focusing result. Pity the K3 screen got a few light marks during the trials
Yeah mine got scratched up too...

04-14-2010, 07:38 AM   #17
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Just got mine by mail from Focusscreen.com.




Recieved it with to plastic shims. After some trial and error i ended up with one original shim on the table and 2 plastic shims in the camera.
Finally the sharpness is spot on, even with manual lens 50mm 1.4 SMC. Never used it before with the K7 because i was unable to get sharp pictures.
This picture itself proves that i needed the focusscreen and shims, it isn't sharp as it should be.

More prove that the 50mm 1.4 SMC is much more critical than the kit lens.

But i am happy again
05-20-2010, 03:45 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lance B Quote
Thanks for that, Sune.

I really should post "here" more than "there" as "there" is not a very nice place to be nowadays, hence the fact that I post a lot less over "there".
It was nevertheless a big help for newcomers to DPr that a lot of the regulars were still around. Reading from the experienced users, made it easier to spot troll posts and see what to be aware of. Having said that, I do prefer staying here, as there are fewer running in from other subforums trying to persuade one to go towards their brand.

Have used a lot of your gear shots as screensavers items, to one day crave for
Like the photos you take as well though
06-05-2010, 04:57 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sakura Quote
Just got mine by mail from Focusscreen.com.




Recieved it with to plastic shims. After some trial and error i ended up with one original shim on the table and 2 plastic shims in the camera.
Finally the sharpness is spot on, even with manual lens 50mm 1.4 SMC. Never used it before with the K7 because i was unable to get sharp pictures.
This picture itself proves that i needed the focusscreen and shims, it isn't sharp as it should be.

More prove that the 50mm 1.4 SMC is much more critical than the kit lens.

But i am happy again
Just ordered a K-7 FSB from focusingscreen.com. Will request for help if I have problems with it. Was looking at a Katz Eye first but switched due to the major price difference.
Did you use any chart for focus (shim) adjustment?

06-05-2010, 07:00 AM   #20
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Whenever we order a camera, I order the shims(all of them) from Pentax in preparation for a screen. After which I go with a katzeye. I tried pretty much every other brand and in the end, the katzeye always ends-up being the one I stick with mainly due the the optibright treatment.... to which I might add, the katzteam better hope no one ever discovers the secret formula.

All our camera's needed calibration btw. And though our K200 and one K20D looked fine(focus confirmation etc.) careful testing showed that they were both off(slightly). An effect that would only increased as distances grew, which turned out to be rather significant for tele focus(85-135mm+ focal).

To get into micro adjustments, I usually combine shims to try and achieve perfect thickness, or... I add 3M post-it tabs to my shim to adjust it in micro increments. Either way, a split screen can provide insanely accurate focusing if needed.
06-05-2010, 08:30 AM   #21
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I also would love the Katz focus screen (had one in my K100D) but it is very expensive to order it from The Netherlands. The P&P and taxes are extremely high.
06-15-2010, 09:49 AM   #22
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focusingscreen - taiwan option

QuoteOriginally posted by Sakura Quote
Just got mine by mail from Focusscreen.com.




Recieved it with to plastic shims. After some trial and error i ended up with one original shim on the table and 2 plastic shims in the camera.
Finally the sharpness is spot on, even with manual lens 50mm 1.4 SMC. Never used it before with the K7 because i was unable to get sharp pictures.
This picture itself proves that i needed the focusscreen and shims, it isn't sharp as it should be.

More prove that the 50mm 1.4 SMC is much more critical than the kit lens.

But i am happy again
Got mine for $57.59 shipped (K7-FSB). and installed on my K7. Had to add one supplied shim to get the focus accurate after checking it with a focus chart.
The focus is dead on, but exposure metering is a different story. Spot metering is totally useless. You have to use center weighted and set EV setting to around -1 @f4 to prevent overexposure.
Be ready to try to experiment with all your lens to come to your desired exposure setting. Working with flash is more difficult.
Despite all the above, it serves the purpose I got it for. Long range bird shots are better (I can adjust exposure during PP, but not poor focus). Best of all, I realize my focusing techniques are improving.
Be sure to install your screen in a clean area. I got a couple of specks of dust on the edges while inserting the shim. Does not bother or affect my shots in any way.
06-15-2010, 09:58 AM   #23
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feel free to ban me but...
can't you just use live view...


not that my SLR has live view btw, and i'm wondering, does live view take into account apperture- i.e. will it darken to show exposure if you close down the lens, and can you see depth of field at f1.4 (focussing screens stop at 2.8)

and do the split prism screens allow you to see more depth of field/brighter viewfinder than the standard 2.8 screens- or are they 2.8 also

does that question even make any sense?

06-16-2010, 01:15 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by clark Quote
feel free to ban me but...
can't you just use live view...


not that my SLR has live view btw, and i'm wondering, does live view take into account apperture- i.e. will it darken to show exposure if you close down the lens, and can you see depth of field at f1.4 (focussing screens stop at 2.8)

and do the split prism screens allow you to see more depth of field/brighter viewfinder than the standard 2.8 screens- or are they 2.8 also

does that question even make any sense?
Live view shows you the image as it hits the sensor after taking into account the aperture, so its a WYSIWYG. The problem with live view is that manual focusing is not that accurate due to the manner in which you are hold the camera (If you are using just auto focus, then there is really no need to change your focusing screen). That is why tripods are recommended for live view. Auto focus is not accurate in low light and low contrast conditions forcing you to resort to manual focus - hence the requirement of a split prism screen.
Live view also drains your battery fast.
You do get a brighter view(reason why spot metering does not work on split prism screens) at the center of a split prism screen. The DOF will be partially accurate to a point only on the matte part of the screen, the split prism center part will not give you the correct DOF. If you want an exact DOF, use live view.
I have not understood your point on "focussing screens stop at 2.8".
06-16-2010, 08:30 AM   #25
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And to add to that, taking pictures with liveview is extremely slow. It is impossible to take action shots while using lifeview.
06-16-2010, 12:43 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by rkohli Quote
Live view shows you the image as it hits the sensor after taking into account the aperture, so its a WYSIWYG. The problem with live view is that manual focusing is not that accurate due to the manner in which you are hold the camera (If you are using just auto focus, then there is really no need to change your focusing screen). That is why tripods are recommended for live view. Auto focus is not accurate in low light and low contrast conditions forcing you to resort to manual focus - hence the requirement of a split prism screen.
Live view also drains your battery fast.
You do get a brighter view(reason why spot metering does not work on split prism screens) at the center of a split prism screen. The DOF will be partially accurate to a point only on the matte part of the screen, the split prism center part will not give you the correct DOF. If you want an exact DOF, use live view.
all my lenses are manual focus, and focussing on the matt screen is a PITA- from what i've used of live view, the Image stabilisation seems to work pretty well in stabilising the view when zoomed it to 5x, allowing for very accurate manual focus
yeah you're right AF on liveview sucks

and thanks for clarifying a few things

QuoteQuote:
I have not understood your point on "focussing screens stop at 2.8".
I read somewhere that the viewfinders in DSLR's are only able to 'see' light rays slower that f2.8- and if you use a faster lens, the viewfinder is no brighter, and you can't see the reduced depth of field until the picture has been taken
i'm pretty sure film camera's though can see all the way to f1.4, so a 50mm 1.4 will seem a lot brigher on a film camera than on a DSLR- but if you put an f5.6 lens on a film camera the screen would be nearly black as the callibration point is much lower, where as on a DSLR it would be still visible
and I was just wondering whether you can get these 'faster' screens on DSLR's as I only shoot on lenses f2.8 and under


QuoteOriginally posted by Sakura Quote
And to add to that, taking pictures with liveview is extremely slow. It is impossible to take action shots while using lifeview.
thank you, that is a valid point I hadn't thought of
06-16-2010, 02:52 PM   #27
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And live view is awesome for split screen calibration
06-19-2010, 07:17 AM   #28
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Canon EC-A screen in K10D

Yesterday I received this original Canon screen from Hongkong (Ebay, new, 34 US$ / 27 €, incl. shipping), and after the treatment with the belt-sander it is sitting in the K10D, without mayer damage (just a little mark; at one moment during sanding it escaped from my hand). This screen just has microprisms, no split image. As I am shooting mostly animals I don't find split screen very useful. With just microprisms the area used for focussing aid is smaller and less obtrusive. Before I adapted a Pentax MX screen; in comparisn the canon screen is much brighter, and I find it much better. I think the brightness is similar to the original K10 screen (it is hard to compare without risk to scratch the screen). With the DA300/4 it works great, with a 1,5X TC it is still very useful, but one has to take care to have the eye in the centre of the viewfinder, for good funcionning of the microprisms. With the 2xTC (f8) it is more difficult to use microprisms, as the get partially dark, but it is possible to get used to it. If have much more sharp birds since yesterday. And the screen is in perfect position with the original K10 shim.

Cheers - Klaus
12-29-2010, 04:28 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by frank Quote
Spent quite some time to calibrate the K3 split screen on my K7, I found manual focusing is the most accurate w/o a shim at all. I tried a few DIY shims at different thickness, all seem to make the focusing slightly to the front. When I take out the shim (including the original one of course), the split is in line w/ the AF result, and my K7's AF is pretty much spot on w/ most of my lenses including FA77 and FA31.
I just installed a Nikon K3 split in my Pentax K7. While taking out the original focus screen, I did not encounter a factory installed shim. Is this common, i.e. some K7s have a shim, others do not?

I tried the K3 split without shims, with one shim and with two shims. I wound up settling on using no shims. With zero shims the K3 split agrees with the K7 auto-focus.

Now, all but one of my Pentax cameras have a split-image focus screen. If I could only find a split-image screen for my K2 The search continues.

Last edited by Moe49; 12-30-2010 at 08:21 AM.
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