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04-16-2010, 05:35 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by Timichango Quote
In Photoshop, an old trick I use to register elements from time to time in my day job (graphic design) is to chromatically invert (ctrl+i on pc, cmd+i on mac) the layer you're trying to register, which should be on top of the target layer you're trying to register it to. Then set the opacity of the inverted layer to 50%.

Try this first with 2 identical source layers, top one inverted to negative; the colours in the 2 layers cancel each other out, and you'll see a perfect, 50% grey image. Move the top layer a few pixels to the left and right, and you'll quickly see how easy it is to register the images in this setup.

With 2 marginally different layers, such as 2 tripod photos shot at different exposures, you won't end up with the perfectly gray composite that i described, but it'll still be far easier to register the images than by looking at the layer you're attempting to register as a transparent positive... viewing the composite with the 50% transparent negative really helps identify clear pixel-perfect alignment.

Hope this helps!
I'm going to try this today!

04-16-2010, 06:12 AM   #17
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Can't get this Luminance to run. I downloaded but it says it's missing a file.

The Read Me says you have to install Windows DLL Package V5, but when you paste the URL they give you to get it, it brings you back to the same download (qtpsdgui 1.9.3).

What the heck am I doing wrong>
04-16-2010, 06:14 AM   #18
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Found it.

Getting closer..............
04-16-2010, 06:18 AM   #19
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Houston.....we have lift-off.

04-16-2010, 06:23 AM   #20
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Try searching the "Post Processing, Printing, Software, and Darkroom" section and you may find your answers there since this is a PP related Q, not a DSLR discussion.

Jason
04-16-2010, 06:27 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by Jasvox Quote
Try searching the "Post Processing, Printing, Software, and Darkroom" section and you may find your answers there since this is a PP related Q, not a DSLR discussion.

Jason
Sorry--you're right. All done though.

Gotta work up that post count, you know!
04-16-2010, 05:19 PM   #22
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i use dynamic photo hdr for HDR photos , it is very good, and i think it is better than photomatix.
04-16-2010, 08:56 PM   #23
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Thanks boriscleto!

I tried the program you suggested but on Linux it is called Qtpfsgui . I also used The Gimp to turn up the brightness and contrast. Here is a link to my best one, but it was only created with a 3 jpg files. I have some raw photos that I will connect next.



Dan

04-16-2010, 09:44 PM   #24
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LuminanceHDR is the newer version of QTPFSGUI. It is just a new name. You probably still have an old version because the name switch was very recent.
04-17-2010, 06:43 AM   #25
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Actually, the Mac OS X version is still called QTPFSGUI as well.
04-17-2010, 03:19 PM   #26
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Dynamic Photo HDR

QuoteOriginally posted by mithrandir Quote
You might also give Dynamic Photo HDR a try. They offer a trial version. It also auto registers the various exposures.
Before I bit the bullet and bought Photomatix Pro, I tried Dynamic Photo HDR's trial and it was very good. In fact, a cheesy thing I did a couple of times with it was to just crop off the DPHDR logo at the bottom of the picture. . . But ultimately Photomatix offers more than any of the others. . . Cindy
04-17-2010, 03:47 PM   #27
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I agree - can't beat Photomatix. And, while it's easy to overdo it, and create a "typical" HDR, it's much better to tweak everything in tiny steps and stay subtle.

They also have a free trial version at:

Download HDR photo software Photomatix

Definitely worth a try. And if you like HDR, once the novelty wears off, the program is worth the money IMHO.
04-19-2010, 06:42 PM   #28
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I like Picturenaut better than QTPFSGUI but Picturenaut is only for Windows OS
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