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04-19-2010, 03:37 PM   #16
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I do accept the bit of critique SoldBear because you are truly right ...i should just keep my humbleness ....at times these disputes on forums turn pointless and into a waste of everyones time....and you are 100% right about the proper English. I do have to work on networking the proper way...and the sad part is that i have the highest English grade at my school...(103.2%) haha don't ask how..just averaged that way..haha but i will take all of that into consideration...oh and i did catch my mistake of my question being to generic because i was in a rush but i later did come back and added a few more specs that were important..... but i learned from my mistake ....thanks for your words of Wisdom

04-19-2010, 03:45 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by SOldBear Quote
I beg to disagree.

I realize that software these days are amazingly powerful, but nothing beats getting things right in the first place.
You are correct of course. My response was quick and without understanding (as I mentioned) what exactly the OPs problem was. By all means get things right before the light hits the sensor. But it is quite possible to fix it afterwards. (Is this what they were asking?)

As far as the query about what the correct temperature is... simply try it and see. A shot is only an interpretation after all. If you've set up lights, reflectors, diffusers, gels, etc. you've already tampered with whatever "natural" would be -- likely because that matches the aesthetic you are after. I am simply not a purist in these matters and believe that for almost all domains "accuracy" is a myth.

And yes, you always need a properly calibrated monitor, no matter what your grey card says. Those are two different issues, really, two links in the chain. And they both should be correct if accuracy is a goal.
04-19-2010, 04:41 PM   #18
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IF you happen to be using Photoshop and don't have RAW files, you can open your JPG files in RAW from Bridge. There you can make all the same corrections you can with a RAW file (to some extent) including white balance. You only need to fix one if they are all the same. You can then copy the WB setting to all of the other files.

For your future reference, it's best to have at least one exposure of a gray or white card in your lighting situation. You can then use THAT as the WB reference for all other photos in Post Processing.



1000-4.
04-19-2010, 04:49 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by perception-of-light Quote
and top modeling agencies in charlotte....


04-19-2010, 04:58 PM   #20
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Ira ...i dont understand how thats funny......Charlotte NC is actually a big city ...we have a whole building uptown dedicated to this these types of jobs.... and its also one of the banking capitals so all the bank head quarters station uptown sponsor the events so they tend to be big corporate events
04-19-2010, 05:35 PM   #21
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You are awesome, definitely my inspiration. I hope I can be a top professional like you someday. Congratulations on the 103.2% english grade .... haha. I'm sorry I can't add anything more to your white balance problem than what has already been said. I hope you figured it out. In fact I have full confidence that a top photographer like you didn't really need our help. Cheers.

QuoteOriginally posted by perception-of-light Quote
I do accept the bit of critique SoldBear because you are truly right ...i should just keep my humbleness ....at times these disputes on forums turn pointless and into a waste of everyones time....and you are 100% right about the proper English. I do have to work on networking the proper way...and the sad part is that i have the highest English grade at my school...(103.2%) haha don't ask how..just averaged that way..haha but i will take all of that into consideration...oh and i did catch my mistake of my question being to generic because i was in a rush but i later did come back and added a few more specs that were important..... but i learned from my mistake ....thanks for your words of Wisdom
04-20-2010, 07:32 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by perception-of-light Quote
my biggest problem was with a model who had a very beautiful skin tone but using the strobes and trying to alternate lamps and slaves...and even ambient light.... the subject kept coming out super pale.... .
You generally do not want to mix light of differing temperatures. If you are using strobes, why do you care about the ambient? Not sure what "alternate lamps and slaves" is supposed to denote.

As for professional or not, getting the white balance right is pretty basic and anyone who is a professional and showing up for a PAID gig should have this stuff nailed down.

So no, your camera was NOT acting dumb.

And what is wrong with shooting raw?

First off, your camera ONLY shoots RAW. When you select JPG, the camera takes the RAW data and pipes it into its on-board JPG processor to generate the JPG "image" to save to the card.

When you shoot RAW, the RAW "data" goes directly to the card and is not an image.

To generate an image, you use a RAW processor (software on your PC) which turns the data into a viewable image, much like the camera's JPG processor. The difference is that YOU have complete control over the image generation process. You can change the white balance, adjust the contrast/brightness/black point/etc....

So you can leave these decisions up to the camera's little processor (and hope it makes the right decisions since they are irreversible), or save the decisions for later where YOU have complete control over it.
04-20-2010, 01:12 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by egordon99 Quote
You generally do not want to mix light of differing temperatures. If you are using strobes, why do you care about the ambient? Not sure what "alternate lamps and slaves" is supposed to denote.

As for professional or not, getting the white balance right is pretty basic and anyone who is a professional and showing up for a PAID gig should have this stuff nailed down.

So no, your camera was NOT acting dumb.

And what is wrong with shooting raw?

First off, your camera ONLY shoots RAW. When you select JPG, the camera takes the RAW data and pipes it into its on-board JPG processor to generate the JPG "image" to save to the card.

When you shoot RAW, the RAW "data" goes directly to the card and is not an image.

To generate an image, you use a RAW processor (software on your PC) which turns the data into a viewable image, much like the camera's JPG processor. The difference is that YOU have complete control over the image generation process. You can change the white balance, adjust the contrast/brightness/black point/etc....

So you can leave these decisions up to the camera's little processor (and hope it makes the right decisions since they are irreversible), or save the decisions for later where YOU have complete control over it.
I was not in a set location the whole time. I was working in and out of a studio so I had to change up the lighting and by slave I clearly hinted slave light and messing with the lamps because the job called for different effects. Also I did have the WB nailed down thats why I said my WB was not the problem and as a couple of other members and I stated previously in this thread, there is nothing wrong with shooting RAW but when you are pressed for time its always best to get it right the first time. Thats the main reason why i asked the question in the first place, just so i could perfect fixing that issue, and my camera was acting dumb because I actually took it in today to Wolf Camera and there was an internal problem. I do have to say thank you for everyones attempt to help. I did realize a couple of things i could have tried, like shooting RAW, but that was just an option that did not benefit me at the moment.


Last edited by perception-of-light; 04-20-2010 at 01:14 PM. Reason: Grammer
04-20-2010, 01:41 PM   #24
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What kind of "internal problem" creates a yellow color cast and pale skin?

You have presented us with a problem and then told us it was fixed but did not tell us what the problem was. We also did not get to see any of the effected images.

Just curious...
04-20-2010, 02:07 PM   #25
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Haha sorry about that Cwood. Oh and i had only said the yellow was the only problem, the model just had pale skin thats why it was also a problem because she looked like she belonged in the simpsons but she was gorgeous. HAHA oh and i did NOT get it fixed i just said they looked at it and after the Manager and I looked at it we noticed that What WE saw through the View Finder was different from what was on the LCD screen and then LCD was completely different from what their printer showed. We looked at all the settings on the LCD screen and they were all ok and the LCD showed a crappy Yellow shot . I remembered clearly how it looked when i first took it so thats when we printed it and the shot was just fine. I said internal because i agree it is a very generic statement but that is only because thats the conclusion the staff and I came up with. No one really knows what the heck is going on. BUT PLEASE CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG BECAUSE I LOVE MY K100D!!! Its my BABY CAMERA!!!! So anything i can do to fix this would be great. I just assumed I would have just have to pay a Tech to fix it thats why I left it at that.
04-21-2010, 11:01 AM   #26
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Maybe PhotoWiz 1.0 Camera tips and settings will help, Download: http://bit.ly/cU2ZM

Maybe PhotoWiz 1.0 Camera tips and settings will help, Download: https://marketplace.windowsphone.com/details.aspx?appId=51ad12c3-a95c-4274-8...ords%3DCarmelo , Demo: YouTube - PhotoWiz 1.0 Available Now!
04-22-2010, 07:32 AM   #27
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Hey, welcome fellow Carolina member. I don't mean to give you a hard time, but I hope that everyone else who is reading this thread is giving you appropriate credit by noticing that you actually listened and responded to our advice about how to properly ask a question, and gives you a bit more credit for wanting to fit in around here. Props for switching to actual sentences, punctuation, and capitalization. It makes it a ton easier to read and help you.

Step two is giving us an example image, and making it more clear whether you're trying to fix these specific images, or whether you're trying to prevent it from happening the future.

What exactly did they fix? Did they just reset some of your white balance and saturation settings?

My guess on what happened is you mixed a white flash with green fluorescent lights. It's going to look correct because your eyes can't adjust fast enough to see how the light changes with the flash, and your eye, without a lot of training, deliberately ignores the yellow cost of iridescent lights and the green cast of fluorescent lights. It looks right to you, but to your camera's sensor, it's two or more clearly different color lights. Those colored shines are going to show up on a model's skin. Some of them can be selectively removed, by white balancing your image in sections divided by what the primary light source is, however, it's far easier in the long run to get lights that are all balanced against the same temperature.
04-23-2010, 04:01 PM   #28
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Thanks alot Mister GUY. You were very helpful. I am going to give the lighting play another shot. I worked on the play with lights for hours but I do know that the clash between the lights and the model's pale skin tone could have played a big role. I do apologize for not posting the images but I just haven't had much time. I will however take that into consideration and next time i have any image questions, I will post the image. Despite what the man at the camera shop said about it being an "internal problem" I will try and take the alternative route you proposed to me and give all these suggestions another shot. If all else fails, then my last resort will be sending that bad boy to the shop but for now its back to the drawing board.

Last edited by perception-of-light; 04-23-2010 at 04:02 PM. Reason: spelling
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