Originally posted by rparmar An advantage of manual focus is that one can "focus bracket" to increase the possibility of getting a sharp shot. I first get the focus as well as I can by eye and then pull back a little so (I think) I am front-focusing. Then, I quickly take a sequence of shots while slowly incrementing the focus plane backwards. With a good lens one can do this quite smoothly.
An intriguing suggestion. I may try it and I think it might indeed work at a wedding.
Unfortunately in some other circumstances, I fear it would cause me to slow down my shooting even further, and I'm already pretty slow. At tonight's Confirmation, for example, I expect to have, oh, maybe 1 whole second when the bishop puts his hands on the candidate—the sacramental moment or, in photographer's lingo, The Shot. Then the next candidate steps up. I'll have sixty of these in fairly rapid succession. Can't see fussing with the focus for sixty kids in a row.
From all I can tell, the image quality of the K-7 isn't superior to that of my K20D. But one of the main reasons I was (and still am) very tempted by the K-7 is that very superior LED display screen. If I take a test shot for focus, then review on the back of my K20D, I can only kinda sorta tell how well focused it is. If I am 25 ft from the subject, by the time I "zoom" in tight enough on the display screen to examine how well focused, say, the nose and eyes are, I've blown the image up very large and it becomes unsharp for that reason. I've seen a Canon 50D, which has a display similar to the K-7's, and the display is awesome. A K-7 may yet be in my future. I expect Pentax to release a new camera this year but I also expect that, if it's above the K-7 in the product line, I won't be able to afford it.
Quote: The similar technique for AF would be to let the auto-focus do its thing (if it can) and then use the quick-shift ring to vary the focal depth. In practice, however, the feel of this ring (on the lenses I have used) is too loose to allow the fine control needed.
Yeah, quick shift is a great idea, but I can't make it work for me very well, perhaps partly because not all of my lenses support it.
I should add another small point. I will shoot tonight with the Pentax 70 f/2.4 Limited. I'm also fond of the 40 and 21 primes. There's not a lot of barrel to hold on to with the 70 and 21, and almost nothing to hold on to with the 40. It's doable—but it's much easier to manually focus my Sigma 28 and 105 which are lenses you can really get your hands on solidly.
But thanks for the focus bracketing suggestion. I really would like to focus manually and I do so when shooting portraits. When I do it right, I believe that I do indeed get better, sharper pictures. The problem is that autofocus is more reliable. In other words, with my current skill level focusing manually, if I shoot 10 pictures using manual focus and 10 pictures using autofocus, two of the best 3 pictures in terms of sharpness will probably have been manually focused; but 3 of the 5 softest or least well focused shots will have been manually focused, too. I can tolerate this hit rate shooting a portrait. It's not so good when I'm shooting an event where consistency and speed really matter.
Will