First flash for K-3 II

First flash for K-3 II · 02:11 PM

Hello. I am in search of a flash for K-3, but it seems like most flash are bigger than I imagined. Could you recommend me a smaller capable and reasonably price flash? There is one I'm considering called Metz 26AF-1 on Metz 26AF-1 Digital Flash for Pentax P-TTL / Remote TTL (Slave), GN 85' MZ 2631796P but couldn't tell if its good enough.

**clackers** · 11-30-2016, 05:10 PM

Originally posted by runswithsizzers

Clackers, Thanks for your reply. I would like to learn more about how others set up their cameras and flashes in various situations, but I should start another thread for that. I am particularly interested to learn what camera Mode you use with your "quick and dirty" method. Do you use P or Auto, or Av? .

My 'quick and dirty' is on P.

Originally posted by runswithsizzers

Do you leave the camera ISO on Auto or lock it down?.

I find if there's not much light around the camera is very happy to jack ISO up which kills the dynamic range and puts grain into the shadows and I rapidly go to M mode to take control.

Originally posted by runswithsizzers

Do you have camera flash Synch mode set to Slow or something else?.

It's only in Slow if the background is important, like a sunset or city buildings or whatever. Quite a bit of pressure on your subject to remain still because the flash part of their image will be sharp but the ghost from the ambient exposure will now be visible.

Originally posted by runswithsizzers

I assume you set the "P-TTL Flash Exposure Compensation to -1" on the flash, and not via the camera's flash compensation menu, right?

No, I do it through the camera, because that's the only thing I want to worry about dials and settings.

I'll only use the flash's FEC in two situations:

1. I need an extra stop of brightness on top of the camera's +1
2. Using more than one P-TTL flash, and I want the individual flashes to be above or below the average value, say a hair light or 1:2 fill.

runswithsizzers · 12-01-2016, 11:27 AM

Originally posted by clackers

My 'quick and dirty' is on P.

I find if there's not much light around the camera is very happy to jack ISO up which kills the dynamic range and puts grain into the shadows and I rapidly go to M mode to take control.

It's only in Slow if the background is important, like a sunset or city buildings or whatever. Quite a bit of pressure on your subject to remain still because the flash part of their image will be sharp but the ghost from the ambient exposure will now be visible.

No, I do it through the camera, because that's the only thing I want to worry about dials and settings.

I'll only use the flash's FEC in two situations:

1. I need an extra stop of brightness on top of the camera's +1
2. Using more than one P-TTL flash, and I want the individual flashes to be above or below the average value, say a hair light or 1:2 fill.

Thanks again for the guidance.

I spent much of yesterday doing test shots with various settings. Learned a lot, and got pretty good results, exposure wise. I am much encouraged compared to my last flash session - a family gathering, indoors at night, when I had too many grossly underexposed shots.

When in P mode, my camera tends to choose a wider aperture than I like - f2.4-4.0 when I would rather have 5.6 as a minimum - so I prefer Av. I was able to get good exposures in both P and Av yesterday, with flash set to P-TTL. I also tested out the camera on M combined with both P-TTL and manual flash. My flash has a minimum power of 1/32 which was still too hot for my initial settings (f5.6, ISO 1000), but I was eventually able to make all modes work (even camera = M + flash = A).

You are right about dialing back flash exposure on the camera vs on the flash. It's quicker for me to do it on the flash - but every time the flash goes to sleep it forgets the setting.

Yesterday I avoided Auto ISO, so I was thinking maybe that contributed to my previous problems? I am trying to look at the metadata on the older family shots to see if I can figure out why they were underexposed, but not making much progress.

**clackers** · 12-01-2016, 01:32 PM

Originally posted by runswithsizzers

I am trying to look at the metadata on the older family shots to see if I can figure out why they were underexposed, but not making much progress.

I reckon don't try to second guess a camera the way it second guesses you, flick it over to Manual if you ever think it's not going to do the apertures and shutter speeds you want from that scene.

**Des** · 12-02-2016, 04:25 PM

This is turning into a masterclass. Thanks to all, particularly @Clackers. P-TTL v Manual seems to be one of those endless debates like prime v zoom.

Originally posted by talkskiwon

All in all, AF360FGZ II looks like it gets the job done for the most part of the capabilities demanded by advises above. But, comes in much higher price than I initially anticipated.

Have a look at this discussion of an affordable flash that does (on-camera) HSS with P-TTL: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/58-troubleshooting-beginner-help/331747-h...nc-w-k10d.html The thread also contains some useful discussion of HSS, and links to further info, including this excellent practical guide by @McGregni - https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/a-practical-look-at-high-speed-synch-51500#comm543102

Another helpful thread here: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/125-flashes-lighting-studio/331160-excite...questions.html

Last edited by Des; 12-02-2016 at 04:37 PM.

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11-30-2016, 05:10 PM	#31
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	Originally posted by runswithsizzers Clackers, Thanks for your reply. I would like to learn more about how others set up their cameras and flashes in various situations, but I should start another thread for that. I am particularly interested to learn what camera Mode you use with your "quick and dirty" method. Do you use P or Auto, or Av? . My 'quick and dirty' is on P. Originally posted by runswithsizzers Do you leave the camera ISO on Auto or lock it down?. I find if there's not much light around the camera is very happy to jack ISO up which kills the dynamic range and puts grain into the shadows and I rapidly go to M mode to take control. Originally posted by runswithsizzers Do you have camera flash Synch mode set to Slow or something else?. It's only in Slow if the background is important, like a sunset or city buildings or whatever. Quite a bit of pressure on your subject to remain still because the flash part of their image will be sharp but the ghost from the ambient exposure will now be visible. Originally posted by runswithsizzers I assume you set the "P-TTL Flash Exposure Compensation to -1" on the flash, and not via the camera's flash compensation menu, right? No, I do it through the camera, because that's the only thing I want to worry about dials and settings. I'll only use the flash's FEC in two situations: 1. I need an extra stop of brightness on top of the camera's +1 2. Using more than one P-TTL flash, and I want the individual flashes to be above or below the average value, say a hair light or 1:2 fill.

12-01-2016, 11:27 AM	#32
runswithsizzers Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: USA Posts: 186	Originally posted by clackers My 'quick and dirty' is on P. I find if there's not much light around the camera is very happy to jack ISO up which kills the dynamic range and puts grain into the shadows and I rapidly go to M mode to take control. It's only in Slow if the background is important, like a sunset or city buildings or whatever. Quite a bit of pressure on your subject to remain still because the flash part of their image will be sharp but the ghost from the ambient exposure will now be visible. No, I do it through the camera, because that's the only thing I want to worry about dials and settings. I'll only use the flash's FEC in two situations: 1. I need an extra stop of brightness on top of the camera's +1 2. Using more than one P-TTL flash, and I want the individual flashes to be above or below the average value, say a hair light or 1:2 fill. Thanks again for the guidance. I spent much of yesterday doing test shots with various settings. Learned a lot, and got pretty good results, exposure wise. I am much encouraged compared to my last flash session - a family gathering, indoors at night, when I had too many grossly underexposed shots. When in P mode, my camera tends to choose a wider aperture than I like - f2.4-4.0 when I would rather have 5.6 as a minimum - so I prefer Av. I was able to get good exposures in both P and Av yesterday, with flash set to P-TTL. I also tested out the camera on M combined with both P-TTL and manual flash. My flash has a minimum power of 1/32 which was still too hot for my initial settings (f5.6, ISO 1000), but I was eventually able to make all modes work (even camera = M + flash = A). You are right about dialing back flash exposure on the camera vs on the flash. It's quicker for me to do it on the flash - but every time the flash goes to sleep it forgets the setting. Yesterday I avoided Auto ISO, so I was thinking maybe that contributed to my previous problems? I am trying to look at the metadata on the older family shots to see if I can figure out why they were underexposed, but not making much progress.

12-01-2016, 01:32 PM	#33
clackers Otis Memorial Pentaxian Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Melbourne Photos: Albums Posts: 16,397	Originally posted by runswithsizzers I am trying to look at the metadata on the older family shots to see if I can figure out why they were underexposed, but not making much progress. I reckon don't try to second guess a camera the way it second guesses you, flick it over to Manual if you ever think it's not going to do the apertures and shutter speeds you want from that scene.

12-02-2016, 04:25 PM	#34
Des Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Victoria Australia Photos: Albums Posts: 6,423	This is turning into a masterclass. Thanks to all, particularly @Clackers. P-TTL v Manual seems to be one of those endless debates like prime v zoom. Originally posted by talkskiwon All in all, AF360FGZ II looks like it gets the job done for the most part of the capabilities demanded by advises above. But, comes in much higher price than I initially anticipated. Have a look at this discussion of an affordable flash that does (on-camera) HSS with P-TTL: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/58-troubleshooting-beginner-help/331747-h...nc-w-k10d.html The thread also contains some useful discussion of HSS, and links to further info, including this excellent practical guide by @McGregni - https://www.pentaxuser.com/forum/topic/a-practical-look-at-high-speed-synch-51500#comm543102 Another helpful thread here: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/125-flashes-lighting-studio/331160-excite...questions.html Last edited by Des; 12-02-2016 at 04:37 PM.